438 Stroker

[440mike]

i just looked at a 426 hemi engine numbers and it said a 4 1/4 bore with a 3 3/4 stroke, then i looked at a 440 and it said it was also a 3 3/4 stroke, and a 383 was a 4 1/4 bore like the hemi ?
so, if i did this right, would not a 383 at 4 1/4 bore, with a 440 crank at 3 3/4, then be a 426 cubic inch 383 block ?
did i do something wrong here ?
so how much do you bore the 383 to get to 438 cubic inch ?

i'm gonna check at work tomorow to ?

[moparniac]

4.250 bore and 3.75 stroke is 426 ....... well 425.5 to be exatc 

[sleepychallenger]

hmmmmmmmmmmm. so what is my stroker gonna come out to?? i am so lost now...

[gkring]

CP, what do you think about the pistons that i posted up? also, what about the .010?

The piston design you posted up is fine for a great street motor with a little strip thrown in. You will not be able to use a 383 piston though since you are trying to go stroker. This is where the "retard" comment probably came from. There are off the shelf pistons for a stroker 440 as well as a 440 crank in a 400, but I don't know of any for a 440 crank in a 383. You can have them made, but then you are getting into custom forged pistons at about a $800 price tag. The money saved by using a 383 block can quickly be eaten up by the more expensive pistons than if you had went a 400 route. So even if you have a 383 block it would be cheaper to build a 400 stroker (451) than it is to build the 383, plus you end up with a bigger motor. Not saying don't do it, but there are very valid reasons why you do not see it being done.

look at this page from JE on the different pistons for a 400 and 440 based on the stroke. Notice how the compression height changes. the location of the wrist pin has to move as you change from a stock stroke.
http://www.jepistons.com/cat/je/auto/mopar/440-440_wedge_flat_top.shtml
If you did not change pistons the extra stroke stroke length is the amount that stock piston will now be higher in the bore. It will actually end up coming up out of the bore and collide with the head, plus it also will be pulled further down in th ebore and the skirts will collide with the crank counter weights. Stroker pistons are typically much shorter overall and have pin locations higher in the piston, sometimes located behind the oil or even the 2nd ring landings.

hot rod article on stroker motor and terms
http://www.hotrod.com/howto/69883_stroke_any_engine/index.html

edit**********************
I found this page and it lists Ross forged pistons for a .030 over 383 and 440 crank and rods for $550, you would still need some 440 rods, but it looks liek it is getting closer to being feasable

http://www.campbellenterprises.com/parts.php?type=search&query=ros99894

[sleepychallenger]

i was gonna say...

from what i understood i could still use the 383 pistons with a 440 crank and rods. i am going to find a good used crank and then go from there. i am debating weather to get the crank machined to work in the block or the block machined to work with the crank. either way i am sure it will be  but what in this hobby isnt.

[gkring]

Stock pistons won't work. The pistons I listed have a different pin location to work with that setup and you still have the skirt design to worry about as well.

[sleepychallenger]

i was reading on MOPARTS that i should have the counterweights cut to 7.25 or something like that. i did read that i will need the other pistons, diamond makes a set too, but i wanted a bit of a dome on them. what about the 440 source stroker motor pistons?

[sleepychallenger]

gkring,


Thanks for all the information. I also found this from Ross

http://www.rosspistons.com/products/index.php#cid=7&acc_id=0&type_id=2&vehicle_id=41

so I am going to want the FT pistons, just gotta shave the heads a little to get that 10.5:1 CR. now it is just finding a set of rods and a crank. Then the machine work can start.... and gotta get money to get  all this stuff too. should be fun once it starts.

[moper]

As much as you're trying to avoid spending... the easiest and best way IMO to do this is the 440Source B wedge 3.75 crank and his pistons. You will need to have the block deck height blueprinted. But by the time you have a stock crank (RB) cut down, turned, or the amins cut, you will be spending similar money.

[sleepychallenger]

is anyone running any of their kits and are you happy?

[moparniac]

is anyone running any of their kits and are you happy?

Drew that would be a better question to ask on moparts to get a true valid opinion! it will be 50/50 at best 

[sleepychallenger]

made a post there too

[sleepychallenger]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-CL21-228-4/?image=large

what do you guys think about this cam and lifter selection?

[Moparal]

cam that size is hard on hydraulic lifters.  its a good cam, but call comp and get it in a solid with a 3 bolt.  lanati makes a good solid that size

[sleepychallenger]

thanks Alan,

I was just looking at size. Thanks for the advice on the lifters. do i need different rockers for solid lifters?