HELP! Milkshake on the first start.. a lot of water in the oil

[banana70]

moper the intake bolted straight...

btw I forgot to comment that the torque for the intake is supossed to be at 35 ft/pount but since it is an aluminum we left it at 30 ... I looked for info later on and found that for aluminum this is maybe too much but it was already like that so we left it at 30...

[Chryco Psycho]

all small block intakes seal off the rear water passage in the heads , the only reason that port is there is so the heads can be swapped side to side

[femtnmax]

Thank you all for the replies...

What I said called my attention is that the head/block gasket does not have a hole  for the front/upper water port of the block, so this port gets sealed when the heads are attached to the block... i guess that this makes the water flow all the way to the back of the head, then to the block and then flow back to the front to the water pump  ...

Does anybody have a diagram of how the coolant circulates in the system?

You are half correct, but the water flows from lower radiator hose, thru water pump and across timing cover and into front of block block.  Thru the block and up thru passage at rear of head gasket.  Then up into the head, then forward thru head to front of head into intake manifold then thermostat and upper radiator hose.
I don't know if you have to replace the rings or bearings, but as mentioned you need to really super clean and inspect everything.
You may have to repolish the crank journals with strips of 600 grit wrapped around crank pulled in opposite direction to crank rotation so it won't leave forward facing burrs on the journals.
HOw to get the water out from behind the cam bearings?  Either flush it well and hope you get it out or R&R the bearings.  Take the oil pump apart or replace it as they are not much money.  JMO.

[acudanut]

Pull the intake.  All small blocks have holes in the back of the head that the intake seals.  (Our monitor is 100 percent correct).  They are there so you can place either head on the left or right side.  When you have the intake off, flush the cam and lifters with fresh oil.  Throw away the old oil filter and change the oil.  After changing the oil and filter, add sea foam to remove any left over moisture in the engine.
Make sure you get a Felpro blue intake gasket and use silicone on the top and bottom of the seals.
My 318 is running great after my ordeal.  I would not pull the egine and polish this and that.
Keep us posted and goodluck.

[banana70]

You wouldn't believe this guys.... cylinder Number 1 was perforated by the uppermost bolt of the little triangular bracket that holds screw for the steering pump and the timing chain cover of course... apparently the bolt that I got from a kit for small blocks was too long an created a bump (crack) on Cyl #1 where the water flowed like an open faucet into the crankcase. 

What we did is follow advice on the intake so we re-bolted everything and took extra care on the manifold sealing and instead of turning the engine back on, we runned a pressure test on the system with no oil on the crank and no oil pan bolt.. and the water flowed again (weird) seeing water coming out the oil pan)... and we were very frustrated... took the intake out again and noticed no water, so it had to be either the chain cover or the block... 

Then we decided to take the oil pan out and run the test again so we could see from where the water came, so we did and voila we found a bump/crack in the lower front area of #1, where piston does not hit.

Since no damage is done to any other part of the engine and every piece is new I decided to take the block to the machine shop and fix it by putting in a sleeve...
 

Is it possible that a spacer is needed for the bracket and I the bolt size  is correct?? 

I'll post a picture of the cylinder later for you to see... thanks again for your replies and interest.. Keep you posted.

[Aussie Challenger]

  We can all learn from that one, glad you picked the problem up when you did, it could have been much worse.    
  I have never come across that problem in a MOPAR only 6 cyl frauds.   

[Chryco Psycho]

That makes sense .....tough break though

[acudanut]

 Damn the luck.  You found this by taking the oil pan off and adding water pressure on the coolant system ?

[banana70]

OK My friends..  Good news but a still a little trouble that I need help with...

Block was sleeved, engine re-assembled with extra care, no screw penetration (confirmed), re-paint, accessories, back in the engine bay, fluids in, no leaks.. and brake-in started...

Everything was OK the first seconds until we noticed an important oil leak through the oil filter base and we had to shut the engine off, removed the filter and bolt was tightened, filter back in, started the engine again but the leak continued, this time in much less proportion.

We did not remove the filter base in the sleeving process and while discussing what can be happening we remembered that for an unexplainable reason we used both the thin and the thick filter-base to block gaskets that came with the kit... 

Here comes the question .. Which are the correct gaskets to use on the filter-base and also on the attaching bolt?

Thanks again advance for your immense support

PC

p.s. Yes Acudanut, I found the leak by taking the oil pan out and adding water and pressure to the system, then watched the block pee from cylinder #1 and cried...

[bb71challenger]

I never had liked those filter base adapters that many small blocks have. I had trouble with the one on my 340 if memory serves. I think I might have smeared a bit of gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket.

[banana70]

OK people problem solved engine running good! 

Still got some trouble but will post new thread..

Thank you all for your support   

[Chryco Psycho]

 

[acudanut]

 What was the problem ??
 

[bb71challenger]

Glad to hear you got it running, sorry you had problems in the first place though.

[acudanut]

What was the problem ??
 

bump