Donor engine swap questions- 318 to 360 for the uninformed

[DMZ73]

First,

The uninformed is me. I have never before today ever had an engine in my Challenger. It has always been a shell, and quite a bit of the unknown.
SO, as of today, I HAVE purchased a MOTOR! For the 1st time in 12 years, this car will have  a heart!

Now that a majority of my bodywork has been done, I fell upon an opportunity to get a nicely built 74 360 for my 73 Challenger. I bought a top to bottom-front to back 360 out of a 78 Dodge PU. Electronic ignition... I'll give some details later...
The questions I  have are the following:

1.) Do I need to swap oil pans?
2.) WIll I need to change my engine mounts? (currently SB K frame)
3.) Is a the SB E body radiator a pretty easy thing to find -i.e. common with any other car?
4.) How hard is it to find a coolant overflow bottle?
5.)Am I missing anything?
6.) What have I done?
7.) Am I insane?
8.) HOw do I store it long-term (6mos?)

Thanks-

Dan

[Chryco Psycho]

1- Yes the truck pan is rear sump , the car pan is center sump
2-Yes , truck mounts are different
3-no really common , early 70s & late 60s rads will swap in , from B bodys & E bodys , up to 74 in e body & up to 72 in B bodys
4- not hard there are after market ones or you can adapt ones from later year cars
5- hard to say , not sure what you got with the engine , 100 amp alt will require different mounts etc to go back to 60 amp factory alt
6- started to get you car on the road ... congrats
7- could be ... I am
8- keep it warm & dry , put some oil in the cylinders , keep the mice out , rotate it from time to time
 you are welcome
 Neil

[DMZ73]

Thanks Niel,

I am now more informed.
I have  a few more questions, just because I have never done this before...
To better understand a part of this conversion the  list of items I need:
1.)A new oil pan
2.) a new sump
3.) a common radiator
4.) a coolant overflow bottle

Questions about the oil sump:
Is there a particular sump that I need?
I can assume that to install the sump, I drop the oil, pull the pan to access the sump.
I think I have seen it done on TV, do I  have to weld the oil pickup tube on the sump?
Is it evident/easy?
Questions about the alternator:
Can I leave it as it is or do I need to revert t a different model?

I know I am insane. I am glad I am closer to being roadworthy, and I am closer to being broke.

Thanks again for your advice!

Best,
Dan

[femtnmax]

The "sump" location only refers to where the oil is stored in the oil pan.  What he's saying is there is a truck type oil pan where all the oil is stored in the rear of the oil pan (rear sump) and a CAR type (you need this type) where the oil is in the middle of the pan.  I bought a center sump car type oil pan from summit, comes with a new oil pick up tube.   The 360 takes a different oil pan than the 318/340.
Did your car come with an alternator??  If so, will it bolt to the truck engine??  Give it a try. 

[360 'CUDA]

Don't forget

You need to get the transmission converter balanced for the 360.  It requires a weight welded on.

[DMZ73]

Thanks guys,
I appreciate the advice. I am in unknown territory here- But not scared.

So I do need to install the oil pickup that comes with the pan?

My motor came with an alternator. I was lucky enough to hear my motor run before it gets removed. I'll takes some pics soon.
ONce I get the motor I'll detail it out, and post some pics.
I don't plan on getting it in the car 'till I shoot the engine bay and  get the body ready. The motor will be on the sidelines watchin' the work go down thru a bag, pretty as can be.
Again, Thanks!

Dan Zimmermann

[femtnmax]

Thanks guys,
I appreciate the advice. I am in unknown territory here- But not scared.

So I do need to install the oil pickup that comes with the pan?

Yes, the oil pick up tube should be matched to the oil pan.  Go ahead and attach the pickup tube to the oil pump without the gasket, then fit the pan without gasket and check clearance fit, etc.  Then eventually install everything for real with gaskets.
So were doing a test fit of the parts, then take it all back apart.  I do the whole engine this way a step at a time.  When everything checks out ok, then assemble the engine the final time and its ready to run and you know all the clearances, etc are correct. 

[Aussie Challenger]

  While you have the sump off consider having a baffle welded in to stop oil surge under braking, very simple job.   

[The Cuda Guy]

Also I dont know how many miles are on the engine but if it were my engine I would replace the oil pump while I had the pan off, along with adding a windage tray.   

Don

[DMZ73]

WIndage tray  and oil surge baffle - good.

Great advice! Keep it coming, I am storing all the good stuff up.

Dan