How is the "fit" on a Challenger Hedman 78038

[vinb]

Speaking of headers , I still don't understand why after all these years the header companies can't fix the #5 & #7  spark plug area on all the headers. All they have to do is move that tube outward maybe a inch or two and straighten it out going towards the firewall. Their is plenty of room to accomplish that..

 That's one reason why I like my Hooker #5115's,  and they could be a little better..

I seen many a small blocks & big blocks in B & E bodies cars that it would be a eazy fit.
For that matter A body cars too...

[ChallengerGary]

although not perfect TTi is the most consistant / best fit I have found + the quality is the highest with thick flanges against the heads , they seal well too

I've installed those before as well, GREAT headers but they know it too...

[72rtchallenger]

I've installed those before as well, GREAT headers but they know it too...

on the small block tti headers are great,,unsure about bb,,but i hated spending the money but was well worth it

[72bluNblu]

I have Hooker Super Comps on mine (#5115). They fit great, no real big issues and I didn't have to dent them up to get them to fit. I still have the stock starter on mine too. Doug's, the Hooker 5115's, and TTI are the only ones that stay above the steering link, at least for the small blocks. With my car lowered even then the 5115's are only about 4" off the ground, can't imagine being able to drive it without issues if they were any lower. I bought my Hooker 5115's at a swap meet for $200. The ceramic coating needs a good polish, but otherwise they're perfect. I recently picked up a set of Hooker Super Comps for my Dart for $150, pretty much the same deal, ceramic coating needs some love but no dents or damage. I can't imagine paying full price for any of them! 

[brads70]

I'm running a 440. I found that the schumacher torque strap was pulling the engine down when I let it off . But the clearance with it totally backed off is still not enough.

[Chryco Psycho]

most headers are poor at best , the 5&7 on the small blocks & the never ending need to go under the steering link have never made any sense to me which is why I never buy headers that do that ,but enough people do or they would go out of bussiness or change the design . Big blocks are no better , most don not clear the 3/5 & 4/6 clinder properly & tend to burn the wires on those cylinders & most have no provision for the angle plug design used on most Alum heads .
TTi are expensive but the cost can be qickly justified after have to instal & remove theheaders a few times to clearance them & after replacing a few sets of spark plug wires at $80+ / set the headers do not seem so expensive

[BruteForce]

I have the TTI headers for my 340. They are easy to get in and out, but I needed a right angle oil filter setup and the small starter. The driver's side was up against the torsion bar, I shimmed the engine mounts over a bit to get 1/4" of clearance. The passenger side interfered with the Lakewood bellhousing, I had to grind a half moon out of it.

I'm using stock heads, but had to use a mix of straight and 90 degree spark plug boots to get clearance for the wires.

[brads70]

TTi are expensive but the cost can be qickly justified after have to instal & remove theheaders a few times to clearance them & after replacing a few sets of spark plug wires at $80+ / set the headers do not seem so expensive

Neil if you mean they are only $80 more per set, I can't find that deal? Just quickly pricing them they are more than double of my headmans? BUT LOL I agree the headache of fitting them is  almost worth an extra $400-$450 more IF they fit with no "fitting" If I did spring for the TTI's and they didn't fit boy would I be pissed! Some have said even the TTi's had to be fit? Not as much mind you but if I have to hammer a header it may as well be the cheap ones?
 ( Maybe I'm not looking in the right place for costs?  ) $840 TTI web site Headman's at Summit $336 ? both coated.

[Chryco Psycho]

ni what I am talking about is if you distroy  an $80 wire set every few weeks from burned wires sitting against the headers as is the case with 3 of my customers cars where there is simply no clearance for the wire to get to the plug without leaning on the header tube & even running mulipe layers of heat shielding the wires still fail, the ongoing cost of wire sets soon makes up the difference in the cost of the headers 

[brads70]

ni what I am talking about is if you distroy  an $80 wire set every few weeks from burned wires sitting against the headers as is the case with 3 of my customers cars where there is simply no clearance for the wire to get to the plug without leaning on the header tube & even running mulipe layers of heat shielding the wires still fail, the ongoing cost of wire sets soon makes up the difference in the cost of the headers

Ah gotcha!
Hey I sent Hedman an e-mail with pictures of the Mods I had to make and they sent me this back! I'm impressed! The squeeky wheel does get the grease! I be sure to post what happens next!

Hello there, Brad

Thank you, for choosing to use our Hedman street series hedders for your big-block Mopar in 70 Challenger E-body.

We are sorry to know that you may be having several installation issues with this full length long tube coated hedder.

According to your brief description it seem that you may also have a problem with the motor mounts or engine location.

After further review of your pictures you supplied we have found that you have the older style design hedder.

Just until recently in order to improve our fitment for this specific application we have re-designed and improved the clearance on this particular hedder number. We have changed the shape and routing on some of the tubes only on the drivers side.

We would like for you to give us the opportunity to work with you on this to try the newer design hedder.

Please provide us with a copy of your original proof of purchase or invoice in order for us to validate your warranty.

We will need your cooperation in order to work this out through our warranty department staff.

Please feel free to contact us personally by phone at # 562-921-0404 and also send your paperwork by fax to # 562-921-7515.

We are sure we can try to work together towards a reasonable solution.

Thank you for your patience and understanding.

Hedman Performance Group

Customer Service

 

[73EStroker]

Brad, my son has a 440 Charger 73 and we had the same or similar fitment issues with the Hedman headers on the driver side. We would have had to ding the hell out of the same pipe going past the steering shaft as well but what we did was clamp the entire header to a big steel bench and heat all 4 pipes with a big rosebud torch. We then "pulled" the header in towards the engine block. Now clears the steering box (only just) and the shaft. We could not use the mini starter with hedmans. We had to use the small stock Chrysler starter. The short one for slant 6. 10 years later no issues.

[brads70]

Ya I considered that too but thought the coating would come off? Did you have coated headers?
I even thought about cutting out the steering box area thats hitting and welding in some reworked mandrel bent elbows. Hopefully headman will send me a new header!
Thanks Brad

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Brad,

  I think I said this before, but I have those same headers on my car. My original set was not coated, so I had a template as to where to make a few dings.     Anyone using uncoated headers is nuts!! I got tired of all the heat, and my hot foot on the hiway. Sorry to digress, but I really didn't have much trouble getting my new ceramic coated set in. Yes, a couple of dents to get around the power steering box, and mini-starter, but I'm good to go. The ceramic coating doesn't come off if you whack at it. I can't speak of applying heat. Interesting idea though.    It should be able to hold up above 1000* F, so a torch might work.   


  Mike

[brads70]

Brad,

  I think I said this before, but I have those same headers on my car. My original set was not coated, so I had a template as to where to make a few dings.     Anyone using uncoated headers is nuts!! I got tired of all the heat, and my hot foot on the hiway. Sorry to digress, but I really didn't have much trouble getting my new ceramic coated set in. Yes, a couple of dents to get around the power steering box, and mini-starter, but I'm good to go. The ceramic coating doesn't come off if you whack at it. I can't speak of applying heat. Interesting idea though.    It should be able to hold up above 1000* F, so a torch might work.   


  Mike

Mike, maybe you had the newer version that was mentioned in Headman's e-mail to me( above)?  Who knows how old or how long the headers I got were sitting on a shelf?The pipe closest to the steering box has to be hammered in at least 1/2" on mine. It also hit the torsion bar,the mini starter, and the steering column? It's not just a few wacks on mine?

[dodj]

Brad, engine location is probably part of the problem. I took a couple of pix of mine and I have about 2" more room than you do. I planned on posting the pix for you to see what I mean but the upload folder is full. Will post later today.