How is the "fit" on a Challenger Hedman 78038

[brads70]

I have already done that, the last header was way worse! This is the second header I've put in( they replaced one already under warantee) It's a 440. Ya I agree shimming won't help the t-bar.

[PlumCraZRT]

Any resolution on the fit of these headers?  Anybody else with better/worse experiences?  Chryco, wanna move this to "Engines and Go-Fast Goodies"?

Thanks,
Evan

PS  I know it's an old thread!

[dodj]

I installed a set of 78038 elite headers on my 440 Challenger and the fit is excellent. I didn't have to dent any tube for clearance at all. It clears the steering box, torsion bars, and starter with no issues. The part I have difficulty understanding is why Brads70 and I have such different experiences. My Challenger was a 318 car that I changed to a 440. I believe his car is the same. A 318 converted to 440. Why the difference in fit, I don't know. Some day I will have to drive down to Barrie and have our cars side by side for a comparison.

[Jim]

The issue with Hedmans (and others) is that they aren't consistent. Bending header tubes is challenging. Some manufactures have more consistent quality than others.

Search forums on just about any header and you'll find conflicting testimonials, some more so (Hedman, Hooker) and others (Dougs, TTi). Factor in 40 year old cars that have been wrecked over the course of their lives or have saggy motor mounts, you you've got a bunch more variation in fit.

[PlumCraZRT]

Thanks guys for the feedback and thanks Chryco for moving the thread over here.

I am seriously considering this set of headers (as my first set ever).  Even if it does take some "persuasion" to get them in, it should be an experience.  I'm looking forward to having the ceramic coating as well.  The other thing i like is the ball joint at the bottom instead of a flat flange.  I've had issues with that leaking on the stock manifolds, so a more current seal is preferred.

Anybody here have these headers on a 383-400 (B-Block)?  I am looking to put these on my (out of the shop any day now) 451.

Thanks

[Jim]

Anybody here have these headers on a 383-400 (B-Block)?  I am looking to put these on my (out of the shop any day now) 451.

Scroll up a bit to my previous post. I put them on a 383, but it takes some persuading.

[Chryco Psycho]

Thanks guys for the feedback and thanks Chryco for moving the thread over here.

I am seriously considering this set of headers (as my first set ever).  Even if it does take some "persuasion" to get them in, it should be an experience.  I'm looking forward to having the ceramic coating as well.  The other thing i like is the ball joint at the bottom instead of a flat flange.  I've had issues with that leaking on the stock manifolds, so a more current seal is preferred.

Anybody here have these headers on a 383-400 (B-Block)?  I am looking to put these on my (out of the shop any day now) 451.
 
Thanks

 I will ask again as usual Why settle for a cheap set of headers , ok so you save a few $$ , but by the time you fix header leaks a few times , burn up a few spark plug wires & fight with fitting them is the aggrevation worth it ??

[PlumCraZRT]

I will ask again as usual Why settle for a cheap set of headers , ok so you save a few $$ , but by the time you fix header leaks a few times , burn up a few spark plug wires & fight with fitting them is the aggrevation worth it ??

Chryco, I appreciate the feedback.  Your comments/points have not fallen upoin deaf ears.

I have read on a number of other websites that (in addition to being significantly more expensive) they trap the starter and cook it.  I've also read that the routing of the pipes (near the plugs anyway) is the same for just about all headers, except Hookers.  Seems to me that they would all be just about as likely to burn plugs.

Since I have a street car, I need/want reliability.  I don't want to mess around with faulty starters (been there, done that, got the t-shirt) and I can get boots for the wires, it seems that Schumacher or Hedmans might be a better alternative.  Admittedly, Schumachers are nearly as expensive as the TTIs and have some performance drawbacks.

I also think Hedman's ball-socket collector is fantastic since I've had so many issues with the collector leaking on my current setup.

Like anything in life, I'm trying to keep an open mind and consider all options... particularly before dropping nearly $1k on a set of TTI headers.

[Chryco Psycho]

Not sure on the price on Dougs but I think they fit about as well as the TTI but run significantly less

[PlumCraZRT]

Not sure on the price on Dougs but I think they fit about as well as the TTI but run significantly less

I actually haven't heard much of Doug's or Doug Thorley (not sure if they're different?!?) from users lately... last articles/threads I've seen have been from 2001-2002 or so.  Both companies cost around $650 ceramic coated.

[Chilly]

   What about those Tri-Y shorty headers Shumacher makes.  Has anybody tried them. I'm thinking about getting a set for my sons 360.

[Chryco Psycho]

Dougs are different than thorleys , a few members have have Dougs & like them .
 the Tri Y Schumaker headers are good for tight fit like 440 in an A body but otherwise I would pass they are better then nothing but will not make the power of a full length header

[DocMel]

Myself, I think hedmans get a bad rep ref e body fit

I picked them because they fit my budget:  Id love a set of TTIs,  but that aint happening

With my 440:  PS only, auto trans, stock starter

1. Disconnect battery:  DO NOT skip this step 
2. Remove engine mount bolts
3. Support oil pan with wood, jacked front of engine up as far as it would go unil the rad fan was about to touch the rad
4. Remove steering arm  (Or whatever that rod is that goes form wheel to wheel and crosses under the oil pan.  I beleive I only removed the drivers side, cant remember:  Get new ball joint boots prior to removal:  The old ones will tear
5. This is the hardest part.  With one person lowering header from above into place on drivers side, without placing any header  bolts in place, while the guy below reinstalls the starter.  It will take finagling of the header on both ends, but it will work.  This step wouldve been a breeze if I had a mini starter.  If you use hedmans, final fit will place the OEM starter almost touching the header.  I use a thermo starter blanket in between that covers the starter  (See JEGS/Summit)
6.  Passeneger side is a breeze: you may have to remove alternator for access of this header  (I cant remember)

Reinstall everything

[DocMel]

Lastly  Mine is a 318 converted to 440:  I have NO leaks, period.  I do peridocially retorque the header bolts, but thats with every header make out there.  No warpage/leaks, no denting or banging required.  I drive my 71 easily 3-4000 miles in the summer.  I installed them last winter.  No issues

[DocMel]

Gents 

Ref sparkplugs:   I used acell shorty/header sparkplugs:  I can get to all from above,  except 2 and 4.  The shortys do not burn thru my mallory 8mms, as there is plenty of header/wire space with shorty plugs