Advise on purchasing a running BB

[pink70]

Hi all, I am planning on replacing the 318 in my 70 Challenger with a 383 or 440 but need advise on what to look for, eg what years are the best, pre smog and what are vehicle are the best donors? There seems to be a lot out there that have been hauled out of a motorhome. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

[pink70]

What do you think of this deal?
A '68 440 from an Imperial. It's been torn down, cleaned up and put back together with new bearings, rings, cam bearings, cam, lifters, etc. The heads have bronze guides and hard exhaust seats. The engine is most of the way reassembled.  Will finish reassembly after it's been inspected. Early and late water pump housings (driver's and passenger side inlet), a couple of intake manifolds, distributors, starter, alternator, etc.  wants $800 with the stock intake manifold, $900 with the Weiand Action Plus.

[Moparal]

Sounds like a good deal for a stock engine. But you can't run a bigger cam than a 500 lift or so without valve issues. Also is cast pistons, but if not racing, a 900 buck fresh 440 with head work done and assembly is a steal of a deal.

[femtnmax]

In some ways your suggestion is better than buying a "running" engine from a parts yard.   The last time I considered buying one from a wreck, they were going to start it up and everything.  I backed out for some reason.  Later found out the car had been rolled, the engine swollowed a bunch of sand......and like I said they were going to start it up for me to show how good it ran.
Even the one your looking at, are they a reputable engine builder???  Sounds like your confident,  I just have to ask.
Me being the ex-ASE mechanic, I'd take their engine and first thing tear it completely down to inspect everything.

[71chally416]

Just be aware that stock for stock a good 340 or 360 will outrun a stock 383 and most 440's, you have to replace everything from the radiator to to rearend including the exhaust and driveshaft too if you have a 904 tranny. Torsion bars will also have to be replaced if you want it to handle right, and that will be worse than it handles now. It's a lot of effort and $$$ to probably go slower and handle worse that you will with a good small block. 

[pink70]

I'm not confident about anything, that is why I am asking for advise. Peoples experiences like yours is a great help. Sounds like a mine field out there.

[pink70]

Thanks 71chally416
Funny you should say that, there has been a little voice in my head, and no I'm not going mad, that is saying to stay with a small block, your comments have given me something to think about.

[71chally416]

340's are getting rare but 360's are a dime a dozen. I have one sitting on the back porch. 
You can stroke one to a 408 for little more than a 360 rebuild will cost and that would be my recommendation. They are much more tolerant engines to the gas we have today and they are obviously smaller and easier to fit in the car. If the car has one or came with one the BB is the way to go, but I can't recommend anybody switching to one with the great parts they have out now for the little motors. 

[femtnmax]

 
71chally is absolutely right IMO.   For all the reasons he gave and more that is why I'm sticking with a small block.   According to a variety of sources, my little 360 should make about the same torque and hp as the original big blocks  ( 400 ft lb torque and 400 hp).  All that and maybe a couple hundred pounds lighter so the car will handle better.
I used to have a 340 duster.  Was  a lttle screemer.  I 'm thinking the longer stroke of the 360 will be great for street driven where torque is king.
DONT FORGET, if your going to run a new flat tappet cam, YOU MUST break in the new cam with Rotello oil (or similar) AND cam break in additive.

[Chryco Psycho]

the concern with that 440 pkg is it doesn`t list piston replacement so what was done , just a quick rehone job & new rings ??
 this could be a problem depending on wear in the block & milage before pulling it apart
 don`t get me wrong it is still a decent buy buy you may have to tear it down & build it right to make it last , I am all for going with the big block , they make gobs of troque & are easy to work on

[moper]

Interms of swapping, it takes more. Depending on your car and you're own driving habits, it may be more. but, a small block e body is the same as a small block camaro. Dime a dozen. The shock and awe factor of a big block is much better, and using similar bolt ons, there are no mild small blocks that will stay with a 440 in one. It's up to you. I had nothing but LA powered cudas for years. I was told "the first time you drive a decent one, you'll never look back". truer words were never spoken. I love small block A bodies, but as for Ebodies, it's big blocks for me. (sorry, just my personal taste)

As far as buying a ring and bearing job... DONT. ALL engines are considered cores to me unless I see reciepts and hear it run. You are buying someone elses problems IMO. Rings dont seal on ball honed bores, and bearings cant maintain an oil wedge without the crank journal being turned. Parts wear into each other. Replacing half will do little but look nice and get more cash out of the hands of the trusting souls. I look for greasy, cheap, stock engines that can turn with a wrench. If it's a runner you're looking for, find one to hear run first. trust noone. because ignorance on the part of the seller means little when it's not working right.

[71chally416]

I'll trade being the quickest & fastest E body around for the "awe" factor of what the motor looks like anyday.

[pink70]

Thanks guys, awesome advise that leaves me plenty to think about.
My thoughts now are to just sit back a little, enjoy the car with its SB engine (of which there is nothing wrong) and wait for the right deal to come along. One that I can be certain is the right one. 
At the moment we would be buying something through a third person, in Portland, and I think that is not always good. In a couple of years we will be travelling North America for 6 months on Long Service Leave and that will give us plenty of time to fish something out.  Two years will go pretty quick and by then the Aussie dollar may be a little better against the greenback. Cheers.

[moper]

71, I would guess that you have a very small "around" if that is what you think and you're a east coast guy...lol. How fast is the quickest and fastest street/strip E body in your locality? (I'm assuming that's yours  ) And where is that again?

[71chally416]

I expect mid 11's @ 120+. That's a real conservative guess with 530hp and 3600lbs. It needs a bit more cam timing and some chassis work and slicks to reach it's real potential. The quickest street driven E body I know of around here does mid 12's with a 440. There's a guy with a 499 stroker BB Cuda with a 5 speed but he can't drive and he won't run me anyway.