what sizes/choices for e-body sway bars?

[brads70]

Hello
What are my options for sway bar sizes front and rear? I've been to firm feels web site
Just wondering what else is around?
I have a Challenger with a 440/727.  I have 1" torsion bars comming, what sizes would you recommend?
Now I know this is a different "kettle of fish" but I'm also thinking about welding in a tube in another K-FRAME and using a rated "racing " set up such as this.
http://www.schroedersteering.com/HomePage.html
Hollow bars are attractive to me as I'm fanatical about getting weight off the nose. And with this set up I can try multiple bars?
HP2 any thoughts?


Thanks Brad

[Chryco Psycho]

Firm feel is the only "correct" rear bar have the frame carry the weight & linked to the diff , all others are opposite which is a poorer design , , you need to balance the front & rear bars to dial in the charicterists you want , the hollow front bars are definatly the best way to go , A frind here has 2 challengers with this set up

[HP2]

If you limit selections to only those stock mounting styles, then you have 7/8, 15/16, 1, 1 1/8 and 1 1/4 in the front. Out back it is only 3/4. If you expand that to use axle mount rear bars, then the selection of rear bars will also add 7/8, 1, 1 1/8 that I've seen around.

Tubular bars are cool but will require fabrication of mounting methods and some tweaking to get arms that meet up in the right places. No biggie if your motivated and have the skills. You will save some nose weight. Also would want to know what rate bar your replacing to get dialed in to the correct tubular size. OD, ID, steps in the bar, arm length, end link length, and mounting location are all variables that alter rate.  Might also check these guys out if you want to go that way;  http://www.1speedway.com/

You can do the same thing out back too. If you look at some of the super class drag cars, you'll notice they use tubular rear sway bars that are frame mounted (actually more like trunk mounted) with links going to the rear end. This would actually provide two advantages; frame hung to reduce unsprung weight and out of the way for exhaust components. This unit is for a Mustang, but it gives you the general idea; http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CEE%2D2020&N=700+4294925130+4294923769+4294839061+400079+115&autoview=sku

[brads70]

If you limit selections to only those stock mounting styles, then you have 7/8, 15/16, 1, 1 1/8 and 1 1/4 in the front. Out back it is only 3/4. If you expand that to use axle mount rear bars, then the selection of rear bars will also add 7/8, 1, 1 1/8 that I've seen around.

Tubular bars are cool but will require fabrication of mounting methods and some tweaking to get arms that meet up in the right places. No biggie if your motivated and have the skills. You will save some nose weight. Also would want to know what rate bar your replacing to get dialed in to the correct tubular size. OD, ID, steps in the bar, arm length, end link length, and mounting location are all variables that alter rate.  Might also check these guys out if you want to go that way;  http://www.1speedway.com/

You can do the same thing out back too. If you look at some of the super class drag cars, you'll notice they use tubular rear sway bars that are frame mounted (actually more like trunk mounted) with links going to the rear end. This would actually provide two advantages; frame hung to reduce unsprung weight and out of the way for exhaust components. This unit is for a Mustang, but it gives you the general idea; http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CEE%2D2020&N=700+4294925130+4294923769+4294839061+400079+115&autoview=sku

The tubular sway bar I was thinking for a future project after I get the car on the road, but for now what size front bar would you recommend? ( 1" torsion bars)
Thanks Brad

[Chryco Psycho]

Well after reading a road test as a kid where they used 2 different set ups on the same type of car , the 1 used stiff spring rates & moderate sway bars but tended to chatter on bumps causing the tire to leave the ground . The second car went the other way & used moderate spring rates with Massive sway bars & literally kicked arse on the car with stiffer springs
 so my choice would be go big or go home , use tubular frame mounted sway bars F & R in balance , while I have read a lot about handling I am unsure if you use a 1.25" bar in front what bar you woudl use in the rear to match it , I know it would need to be something in the 1" range

[Chryco Psycho]

pix of a local Real T/A that is raced , it has the tubular front bar 

[brads70]

Thanks cool! I have all that set up here now but the bar I have is too long.( left overs from another project) I was thinking for the link kits I would use 1 heim joint and the other end stock style ends with the rubber. Have a adjustment in the middle like a tie rod to pre load the bar. Maybe next year I will mess with this idea, get another k-frame to mess with so I could always go back to stock.

[HP2]

You can use this to calculate your stock bars to translate in to the tubular offerings.

http://www.buildafastercar.com/tech/Sway-Bar-Rate-Calculator

[bb71challenger]

I bought a set of these over 10 years ago when I bought the front end kit for my Challenger. How are these compared to original equipment? They are 1 1/8 and 7/8. I never installed them and just recently unearthed them still new in the box. Before I put them on I want to make sure they will be worthwhile. Thought I had a pic included. They are PST sway bars. Gold color. I will try the pic again but it was just a list of sway bar applications.

[autoxcuda]

Hellwig and Hotchkiss both are offering tubular hollow stock configuration front sway bars. Both companies will have booth with displays at the upcoming Spring Fling show in Los Angeles. They will have people there to offer technical help.

Hellwig has some tubular front sway bars and adjustable rear sway bars. The one issue with frame mount rear sway bars is that  pre existing exhaust tubes can get in the way sometimes and you have to drop the rear end to install them.



http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=28382&highlight=hellwig


Hotchkiss just came out with this tubular UCA that reduces the anti dive out of the front.

http://www.hotchkis.net/dodge_b_e_body_geometry_corrected_tubular_upper_aarms.html



http://videos.streetfire.net/vidiac.swf?video=2fe4c93f-a957-4f91-a148-9b5b00fcb857

[brads70]

Thanks Guys!