Author Topic: Removing factory quarters  (Read 1930 times)

Offline usraptr

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Removing factory quarters
« on: March 27, 2009 - 03:05:40 PM »
What's the best way to remove the OEM quarter panels.  I'm referring specifically to the welded sections in the door jam and spot welds to the inner fender?   :clueless:
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda.  Matching numbers 440 U Code, 4 speed pistol grip, Rallye dash, AM 8 Track, Shaker hood, 15 inch rallye wheels, Dana 60 4.10, Super Track Pak.  One of 134 - 440 "U" coupes codes built in 1970 and one of 100 - 440 Super Track Paks built in 1970.

Restoration pictures at:  http://spanks4thememory.smugmug.com/Cars/70-Cuda/7240639_M24oi#465274575_2MBqW
(Edited 8-1-17)

"usraptr" = United States raptor - bird of prey = United States Bald Eagle.  FYI, somebody else thought of it first so I had to drop the "O" in raptor.




Offline 72hemi

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Re: Removing factory quarters
« Reply #1 on: March 27, 2009 - 03:10:27 PM »
I use a spot weld remover bit in my drill. They aren't the cheapest thing in the world but they do a hell of a job. You should be able to get them at your local body/paint supply shop.
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Offline Sean

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Re: Removing factory quarters
« Reply #2 on: March 27, 2009 - 03:13:13 PM »
I've never used these and don't know the quality, but they seem pretty cheap...

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95343

Sean

Offline Topcat

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Re: Removing factory quarters
« Reply #3 on: March 27, 2009 - 03:45:06 PM »
I've never used these and don't know the quality, but they seem pretty cheap...

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95343

Sean


They work fine. I buy 2 or 3 at a time and that seemed to last me pretty well. You can switch the cutter tip to the opposite if you end up breaking a few teeth off.

Use a good drill bit to drill thru a small hole thru the weld first. A dull drill bit will have you drilling thru welds taking way too long making it take forever.
Mike, Fremont, CA.


Offline usraptr

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Re: Removing factory quarters
« Reply #4 on: March 27, 2009 - 05:10:30 PM »
Thanks guys! :cheers:  I swing by harbor freight tomorrow and pick some up.   :ylsuper:
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda.  Matching numbers 440 U Code, 4 speed pistol grip, Rallye dash, AM 8 Track, Shaker hood, 15 inch rallye wheels, Dana 60 4.10, Super Track Pak.  One of 134 - 440 "U" coupes codes built in 1970 and one of 100 - 440 Super Track Paks built in 1970.

Restoration pictures at:  http://spanks4thememory.smugmug.com/Cars/70-Cuda/7240639_M24oi#465274575_2MBqW
(Edited 8-1-17)

"usraptr" = United States raptor - bird of prey = United States Bald Eagle.  FYI, somebody else thought of it first so I had to drop the "O" in raptor.

Offline E-Body Products

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Re: Removing factory quarters
« Reply #5 on: March 27, 2009 - 10:28:58 PM »
One other tip...  Get the larger spot weld remover bit.  Sometimes, I have trouble with the smaller bit not cutting all of the way around the spotwelds.   :banghead:

I also agree that you need to drill a small hole first, as I have found that the spotweld drill bits want to walk off of the weld when trying to drill.

Autobody Tool Mart sales a spot weld drill bit that is guaranteed to never get dull.  It is expensive though and I have never used it.  They say if it ever gets dull, they will sharpen it at no cost.

Daniel
www.ebodyproducts.com
« Last Edit: March 27, 2009 - 10:32:42 PM by dj1965 »

Offline mopardave

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Re: Removing factory quarters
« Reply #6 on: March 29, 2009 - 08:14:31 PM »
3/8 blair cutter with tarbor with the spring centering pin, comes in a 3 pack double sided changable bit, or just use a good 5/16 or 3/8 drill bit.  good cut off wheel hammer and a chisel. have at it.
Mopar Dave
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Offline heminut

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Re: Removing factory quarters
« Reply #7 on: March 30, 2009 - 10:36:33 AM »
Another tip; use a 1" wood chisel to separate the sheetmetal when the cutter doesn't get all of the spot weld. The wood chisel isn't as blunt or thick as a cold chisel and doesn't bend the sheetmetal as much as a cold chisel.
1970 5.7 Hemi Cuda

Offline Todd DesMarais

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Re: Removing factory quarters
« Reply #8 on: April 02, 2009 - 10:27:21 PM »
I've torn down 5 cars by drilling ALL the welds. I started back when using the double sided cheapo ones you get @ H.F. (though back then I bought mine from SnapOn) and can tell you they are only as good as what you paid for them. Sure, they will work but you will go through at least 2-3 double tips on a quarter unless you have the touch of a surgeon. 

 I bought a set of Rotabroach (Blair brand) cuters and will never look back.  The set I have has 7 cutters from 5/16 to 3/4. here is a great place and price for them  http://www.dentcrafttools.com/products.asp?id=23  there is a cheaper set  http://www.dentcrafttools.com/products.asp?id=14  but it is not capable of drilling holes deeper than 1/8" and are really meant for sheet steel. It's worth the extra $10 for the other set. I have used them to punch near precision holes in 1/2 plate. Just make sure to use a quality cutting oil.

 These are the same cutters that Eastwood and others sell and you can get the spring tip or pilot tip plus extra/replacement cutters.

 Also, I use a stiff 1" putty knife for seperating the panels (the kind w/the brass pommel or end cap). It gets in between without any warpage/bending of the panel and you can give it a tap on the back w/a hammer to pop the weld if not drilled all the way.

   sorry for the rant, hope this helps.

         Todd
« Last Edit: April 02, 2009 - 10:30:55 PM by Todd DesMarais »
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Offline 73dce

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Re: Removing factory quarters
« Reply #9 on: April 03, 2009 - 08:53:56 AM »
 :iagree: Buy quality. Harbor Freight is Chinese junk.

Offline usraptr

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Re: Removing factory quarters
« Reply #10 on: April 04, 2009 - 07:57:00 PM »
Thanks for all the suggestions and advise!! :thumbsup:  Now for the next stupid question.  When drilling with the blair cutter do you cut through both pieces of sheet metal so you have a hole or just the top layer? 

Thanks

Brad :feedback:
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda.  Matching numbers 440 U Code, 4 speed pistol grip, Rallye dash, AM 8 Track, Shaker hood, 15 inch rallye wheels, Dana 60 4.10, Super Track Pak.  One of 134 - 440 "U" coupes codes built in 1970 and one of 100 - 440 Super Track Paks built in 1970.

Restoration pictures at:  http://spanks4thememory.smugmug.com/Cars/70-Cuda/7240639_M24oi#465274575_2MBqW
(Edited 8-1-17)

"usraptr" = United States raptor - bird of prey = United States Bald Eagle.  FYI, somebody else thought of it first so I had to drop the "O" in raptor.

Offline elitecustombody

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Re: Removing factory quarters
« Reply #11 on: April 04, 2009 - 10:09:04 PM »
you'll have a small pilot hole in both ,but most people use the cutter to only cut thru the outer skin

I use a couple different panel busters like this

Stefan B

Elite Custom Body = AMD Sheetmetal & Glass at great prices !!


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Offline cwestra

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Re: Removing factory quarters
« Reply #12 on: April 04, 2009 - 11:10:24 PM »
Thanks for all the suggestions and advise!! :thumbsup:  Now for the next stupid question.  When drilling with the blair cutter do you cut through both pieces of sheet metal so you have a hole or just the top layer? 

Thanks

Brad :feedback:When I did mine I drilled through both panels with a regular bit (small hole then larger hole).  When I installed the new quarter I did not drill any holes in the flange and came in from the inside of the panel to fill.  This leaves a nice looking, almost spot weld look, without having to grind.
Corey - in Northern Indiana

Offline MoparCar

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Re: Removing factory quarters
« Reply #13 on: April 05, 2009 - 08:59:03 AM »
Just drill through the top layer.
I also use the Blair cutters. They work good. Use a center punch on the weld first and it'll save some frustration.

Wes

Offline usraptr

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Re: Removing factory quarters
« Reply #14 on: April 05, 2009 - 10:17:29 AM »
Once again, thanks guys!! :cheers:  With your help I'll eventually get this project done.   :thumbsup:

Brad
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda.  Matching numbers 440 U Code, 4 speed pistol grip, Rallye dash, AM 8 Track, Shaker hood, 15 inch rallye wheels, Dana 60 4.10, Super Track Pak.  One of 134 - 440 "U" coupes codes built in 1970 and one of 100 - 440 Super Track Paks built in 1970.

Restoration pictures at:  http://spanks4thememory.smugmug.com/Cars/70-Cuda/7240639_M24oi#465274575_2MBqW
(Edited 8-1-17)

"usraptr" = United States raptor - bird of prey = United States Bald Eagle.  FYI, somebody else thought of it first so I had to drop the "O" in raptor.