Tie Rod Hitting Torsion Bar

[cwestra]

I am just putting my front suspension back together and found that the drivers side inner tie rod end comes very close to hitting the torsion bar and the grease zerk actually does hit.  I put the original tie rod in and it also hits.  Not sure what's going on here.  Any help out there?

[71chally416]

You have them upside down? 

[Chryco Psycho]

I have seen this a lot , different tie rod ends have the zerk at different heights , also installing the idler with a shim above or below can change the height of the center link

[Changin Gears]

Is your pitman arm nut torqued?  Maybe its not all the way up on the splines.  Sounds like you might want to check bump steer on this car.  Might need a shim on the lower steering gearbox bolt.

[cwestra]

Unfortunately the uploader is full so I can't post any pictures, but I will continue trying.  I left the pitman arm on the steering box when I restored it so if there was a problem in that area then it was also there when I purchased the car.  I don't believe it is upside down, as the center link holes are tapered and I would have not been able to insert the tie rods and arms if that were the case.  And in looking at pictures of other cars, I believe it is in correctly. 

I will also try and post a picture shooting down into the engine bay.  I don't like the angle the center link is at.  I would have thought it would run reasonably perpendicular to the torsion bars, but it clearly is not.  Makes me wonder if the idler arm is actually a "Fast Ratio" or if the guy before me simply replaced it with a standard arm.

I can replace the zerk with a plug and clear, but the rod still comes close.  It seems to suggest that something is not right.  CP you say you have see this a lot.  Is it on drivers side only or have you seen it on passenger side as well?

Thanks for the advice.  It is greatly appreciated.

[Changin Gears]

I've seen it on both sides.  My '64 Polara (below) had a horse shoe shaped shim on one of the stearing gear bolts from the factory.

[Bullitt-]

Here's a good shot for you... possible the ends are swapped, I notice the center link is asymmetric.

[cwestra]

Here's a good shot for you... possible the ends are swapped, I notice the center link is asymmetric.

That's the way I have mine installed.

[heminut]

Is your pitman arm nut torqued?  Maybe its not all the way up on the splines.  Sounds like you might want to check bump steer on this car.  Might need a shim on the lower steering gearbox bolt.

If you put a shim under the bottom bolt it will raise the pitman arm, making the problem worse!

[HP2]

Sounds like steering box shims feel out during dis-assembly and were not replaced. This is not uncommon and corrections for it are outlined int eh Chassis Book. Shim the upper two bolts and this will cause the pitman to drop in relation to the torsion bar. Then check the measurement from the floor to pitman, and the floor to the idler and adjust to get even.

Here is more info;
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=55187.msg570934#msg570934

[cwestra]

Sounds like steering box shims feel out during dis-assembly and were not replaced. This is not uncommon and corrections for it are outlined int eh Chassis Book. Shim the upper two bolts and this will cause the pitman to drop in relation to the torsion bar. Then check the measurement from the floor to pitman, and the floor to the idler and adjust to get even.

Here is more info;
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=55187.msg570934#msg570934

Thanks so much for the lead to that thread.  Not sure how I missed it, but it looks like he had the same problem as I am having.  Chrysler must have this clearance set fairly close out of the factory, such that any change runs the risk of interference. 

I assume I can get away with using a couple of thin washers to get the clearance I need, or will I need something special.  And tilting the box will not effect anything else negatively, will it?

Thanks again for the help, guys.  I've said it before and I'll say it again.  I really appreciate this site.

[HP2]

Yes, this clearance of the tie rod to teh t-bar needs to be very close to minimize bump steer issues.

Washers are fine for this. I like to use GM type control arm alignment shims because they are slotted, come in varying thicknesses, and have a tab to hold on to them with. Tiltiing the box is not a big deal, but you do want to check its relative position to the idler as well or you can get unequal bump issue from right turn to left turns. This is why you want to check the center link's position to the floor under the shimmed pitman and compare that measurement to the same position at the ilder connection.

Moving the idler is more involved as it will need to be removed and the mount hole slotted to get the ilder aligned, then a washer needs to be welded to the mount to hold the idler in position. Ideally you would want both the pitman and idler measurements to be dead nuts identical and if your planning on autocrossing or road racing the car, should make every effort to make them the same. If you are just doing casual driving to shows, you would probably be okay with a minor difference.

[cwestra]

Yes, this clearance of the tie rod to teh t-bar needs to be very close to minimize bump steer issues.

Washers are fine for this. I like to use GM type control arm alignment shims because they are slotted, come in varying thicknesses, and have a tab to hold on to them with. Tiltiing the box is not a big deal, but you do want to check its relative position to the idler as well or you can get unequal bump issue from right turn to left turns. This is why you want to check the center link's position to the floor under the shimmed pitman and compare that measurement to the same position at the ilder connection.

Moving the idler is more involved as it will need to be removed and the mount hole slotted to get the ilder aligned, then a washer needs to be welded to the mount to hold the idler in position. Ideally you would want both the pitman and idler measurements to be dead nuts identical and if your planning on autocrossing or road racing the car, should make every effort to make them the same. If you are just doing casual driving to shows, you would probably be okay with a minor difference.

Great.  I have made the shim adjustments and it does clear now.  I'll take that measurement next.  Thanks a lot.

[cwestra]

This is how it looks from the top.  Does the angle of the centerlink look correct?  Just curious.  I would have thought it would run pretty much perpendicular to the torsion bars.

[Chryco Psycho]

it looks like you have a longer pitman arm for fast ratio , I do not know of a longer Idler arm to compensate for the different links