Trunk Mount Battery Box and Wire Size Suggestions

[2000gt]

Hey guys, the wiring on my 70 cuda is a bit of a nightmare and I want to start slowly sorting it out. The battery has already been relocated to the back but it was a sloppy job and is ont eh drivers side, I want it on the passenger side.  So I was going to get a new battery box and battery and some new cable.  questions:
1) Any recommendations on battery boxes, I see Odyssey makes some trick billet mounts for their batteries and for Optimas or Taylor makes a aluminum box?  Anyone got any ideas or pics?
2) What guage wire do I need to run? Seems like most kits come with 1 or 2 guage, does it really matter much what I go with?

thanks, Tyler

[GoodysGotaCuda]

As far as the gauge, get the thickest you can (smallest number). You cannot have to big of a wire when it comes to a remote battery. I'd run the 1 gauge. It does matter because the longer and thinner the cable, the less current is able to carry. So being you're going from as far away as you can from the starter, I recommend the thicker stuff. Can't hurt a thing. You want as little voltage drop as possible.

[Chryco Psycho]

I use 1 guage welding cable , it is very flexable & heavily coated & cheaper than buying a kit

[2000gt]

Thanks guys, i think I'll go with the welding cable suggestion.  I also have a BMW 01 BMW parts car with a factory rear battery, I shoul dcheck to see what gauge that is too.  Thanks, Tyler

[Aussie Challenger]

  Make sure that the ground wire from the body of the car to the engine is a decent thickness too. You don't have to run both positive & negative from the battery to the front, only the positive.   

[73EStroker]

Actually a chime in to correct this article from the electrical guy. It is true what is said but having a smaller guage (larger AWG number) actually causes more voltage drop as length increases so one needs a larger size wire to compensate for this. The lower voltage actually makes a need for more current to flow. Think of a motor rated in watts of power. The wattage is made up of basically volts X amps with a few other factors not considered here. Example 240W motor @ 12V would mean 20A draw. So because the resistance of the smaller wire is higher then we lose voltage example 240W @ 10V (2V drop) would mean now a 24A draw on the wire. This causes the starter to eventually burn out and the wire to heat up. For those of you still awake 1HP = 746 watts and this divided by 12 is a lot of amps like 63A. Starters draw around 200A so that makes your starter motor around 4HP

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Thanks guys, i think I'll go with the welding cable suggestion.  I also have a BMW 01 BMW parts car with a factory rear battery, I shoul dcheck to see what gauge that is too.  Thanks, Tyler

As long as the airbags and such weren't deployed on it. It should be very good cable to work with, if it's long enough. its a fine strand 1ga or so.

(when the airbags are deployed the battery safety terminal is blown off the end of the cable to kill the engine. little pyrotechnic in the end of that cable)

[Aracer]

#2 welder's cable is what I use. It's thickly covered and flexible due to the fine strands. The starter end should also be crimped and covered with heat silicone tubing.  A Moroso cut off switch will need a #6 wire for the charging and the amp meter will read backwards after you rewire the alt. Having fun? The battery will need 3/8" bolts and large washers to hold it down, good luck getting it into a box. Plus now you need to vent the vapors by removing the rear plugs at the top of the trunk. Obviously for the warm climate and drag or other racing. Finally, I put the switch in the rear side light opening. 

[GoodysGotaCuda]

As for crimping the ends. I didn't have the proper tool to crimp it. Whats worked for me, for four years now is putting the terminal end into a vice. Using a propane torch to get it hot enough to melt solder in. While the solder is still liquid stick the cable end into the terminal and let it cool. Made a rock solid connection, got into all the strands and has held up well for me.

[Travis72]

Not to hijack the thread... but any good suggestions on the battery box?  It would be really nice to tuck the box in to the corner of the trunk, but all the boxes I've seen  require you to drop the battery in from the top and the quarter panel would be in the way.

The billet type mounts for Optima batteries are nice and would allow you to tuck it in to the corner, but they are not legal for NHRA (which doesn't make any sense because they don't vent)   

Travis
72 Cuda

[Chryco Psycho]

I have used the plastic Marine boxes in the past

[2000gt]

I decided to go with a Optima Billlet box and ordered it from Summit.  I'll figure out the cable once I get the box installed.  Thanks for the input.

[Aussie Challenger]

 

As for crimping the ends. I didn't have the proper tool to crimp it. Whats worked for me, for four years now is putting the terminal end into a vice. Using a propane torch to get it hot enough to melt solder in. While the solder is still liquid stick the cable end into the terminal and let it cool. Made a rock solid connection, got into all the strands and has held up well for me.

     I have always soldered battery cable connectors, makes for a much better electrical connection. If you cannot put a piece of heat shrink over the ends a small amount of colored insulation tape, black or red.   

[Aracer]

I had the welder's supply crimp the starter end and supply the silicone cover, on the battery end I used the solder. The ground wire and switch leads are regular battery supplies. I used the thickest clear covered copper for the ground to body.
     The #2 welders wire is the most flexible fine stranded wire for the least resistance with the most durable cover. The wire is routed along the drivers side, in with the rest going back. Then behind the upper rear seat, and over the pass. wheel tub. Cover the wire whenever crossing over steel edges for safety.

[dutch]

is that switch on the outside of the car?