I'm disassembling my 383 and need some feedback

[willard]

I'm changing the cam as I think it's the last thing that can heal this engine (idling roughly, good vacuum, good compression, new ignition, set timing but doesnt like idling below 900 rpm (shaking) and having not enough power).
1. does this cam looks like wiped? I dont have a suitable caliper and dont know the cam specs (it only has a cast 1103 number)?
2. do the pushrods (marked MPR321, with both ends identical) have top and bottom end or they can be put in any position?
3. is it normal that it is had to turn the engine (t/c not removed) with plugs and rockers removed? I must apply a considerable force on 10" ratchet to rotate the crankshaft. of course with plugs in I have to overcome the compression building up but without them I did not expect so heavy resistance from torque converter...

[moper]

Cam looks fine, but looks stock or similar to stock. It's nromal when you have good rings.. that engine was rebuilt and I'd assume the rings are in good shape. Don't sweat it.

[Chryco Psycho]

the cam is worn normally but not wiped
 pushrods can be installed either way

[willard]

thanks! I can't wait to start the reassembly!

[73Chally]

How much have you worked on the carb?  If your problems are a poor idle and low power, those are 2 symptoms of problems with the carb.  Have you tried swapping them, or the intake?  Is the intake a single or dual plane?

[willard]

intake is standard 383 dual plane, carb is brand new holley 770 vac secondary street avenger. I had the same problems with old carb (eddy 750), putting new carb make some more power but did not help with idling.
I noticed that the secondaries dont open at WOT so i figured it must be a wiped cam...
I also rejetted he carb 3 numbers down and have correct power valve. compression is good so I dont suspect rings or valves/guides.
We'll see what cam swap brings

[Chryco Psycho]

check the cam brgs for damage

[willard]

what would be the effect of damaged bearings? the cam spins freely. I can only inspect them visually with a flashlight

[Chryco Psycho]

check the surface for gouges , chipped suface or grooves worn into the brg

[71chally416]

A bad cam bearing or bearings will severly affect your oil pressure at idle. If that seems to be OK you're alright.

Make sure you have the right heat range plugs too if you're having trouble with idle. Here's your choices >

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1078477,parttype,7212

[willard]

I ave champions R12YC and they should be good. I finally extracted the cam and that's the signature:

111203
270366

262688

anybody knows it?

I put everything back, but forgot about 4 row pulley and had to install it after the water pump what was nasty 
I have to put the spark plugs back and then fire it. I hope it's gonna work. Will let you know

[willard]

ok, reassembled everthing and tried to break in the cam today. Unfortunately I had to stop after first 5 minutes because I was dumb enough to fave a 10x10 feet large poyethylene foil by side witch was literally sucked by the fan  then after another 5 minuts one of alternetor cables broke loose and I had to shut the engine off. The rest of the process was ok and I hope I did not wasted the cam... total of 20 minutes at 2000+ rpm.
I was running the engine in a garrage and it was quite hot but did not go over the middle of the gauge, oil pressure was ok too.
 

[Chryco Psycho]

you will know very quickly if there is a probelm with the cam
 not sure what oil you used butI hope iti seithe not SM rated or you sed a high ZDDP additive with it

[moper]

It was probably ok. What cam went into it anyway? Or did I miss that somewhere...

[willard]

I used lunati voodoo 60302: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=LUN%2D60302LK and of course lubed the cam and used CRANE oil additive: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CRN%2D99003%2D1

any idea on what's the cam that was installed before?