My first cam install

[bb71challenger]

I agree with CP, I bet I have way under 100 bucks in my 2 dial indicators and mag base. Glad you found one at a decent price. You will be happy you went the extra mile on the install.

[Ornamental]

Dial indicator and magnetic base stand is in my garage now.   
But it's not all happiness in Ornamental's garage...

   This is about as easy and straightforward as I have been able to find.  Short and to the point.     

http://www.lunatipower.com/Tech/Cams/HowToDegreeACam.aspx

From the link:

4
The next step is to find true Top Dead Center (TDC). The most accurate method is to secure a flat strap (1-1/2 x 1) that will bridge the bore (with the heads removed). A Steel Deck Strap Kit is included in the Lunati Degree Wheel Kit, or is available separately (P/N 80013). (If the heads are on the engine, another method of finding TDC is necessary. This method uses an old, discarded sparkplug. Remove the porcelain and use a tap, 3/8" 24NF, to cut threads through the plug. Insert a Bolt so that it will protrude through the plug approximately one inch. Remove the rocker arms and push-rods so the valves will not be bent.


Apparently, it's possible to do this with the heads on.
But there are two things I'm not sure of:

First, will the spark plug bolt thingy work for a Mopar small block, or is it most suitable for Ford / GM?

Secondly, it's impossible to get the dial indicator to line up with the lifter with the head on.
I'm a little lost here now. 
Should I use the lifters pushrod to measure lift above the head, or will that be a unreliable way to measure lift?
Or is it off with the head (and get a proper view of TDC as a bonus) for me now?

[moper]

Per, it is highly unlikely that the resistance from the dial indicator will be enough to preload the lifter. So if you are having a hard time, you may be able to use a pushrod and read off the end of it... Some pushrods have a small hole in the end (even when they are shaft oiled).. if yours does not, you may have to get inventive... A long narrow bolt would work too.

[Ornamental]

Per, it is highly unlikely that the resistance from the dial indicator will be enough to preload the lifter. So if you are having a hard time, you may be able to use a pushrod and read off the end of it... Some pushrods have a small hole in the end (even when they are shaft oiled).. if yours does not, you may have to get inventive... A long narrow bolt would work too.

Thanks Dave!
I was a little concerned about getting an angle on the pushrod, meaning maybe having a little of the vertical movement turned into lateral movement, resulting in a bad measure.

When I had the heads off, I measured the distance between top dead center and the deck,
it's 3 mm, converted to inches, it's .0118110 inches. Piston is below deck.
Guess that's nothing to think about, given that the bolt through the spark plug should be approximately one inch.

The cam shaft passing rite continues...   

[Ornamental]

The old cam was marked with SPD22. Just for fun, I googled "SPD22 cam", and found a probable good hit with some specs at http://www.mellingengine.com/Portals/5/pdf/pdf_catalog/engine-parts-camshaft-specifications.pdf

[Chryco Psycho]

the piston stop tool worrks great on Mopars as well , I use mine lots , I also have an extra long pushrod with a cupped top to run the dial indicator above the head , I theink the pushrod is out of a slant 6

[Ornamental]

Degreeing seemed like a pointless exercise, because there wasn't a cam card in the package.
So I'll have to admit that particular step was unfortunately skipped.

What's been done so far isn't much, just aligned the gears by the dots, cam gear at 6, and crank at 12. Timing cover is on, and now it's to set ignition timing.
Both lifters for Cyl#1 are down, and the groove on the damper is at 0 degrees, so I guess the piston is on the compression stroke?



The distributor gear was moved a little during cam installation, so just rotating the crank 360 degrees to get to the firing position of Cyl#1 isn't an option. Right now the rotor is about at firing position for Cyl#6.
I took out the distributor to be able to lift the distributor gear, but then it was time to call it a day.

Should the next step be to use the spark plug tool to have Cyl#1 at TDC,  pick up the distributor gear, and have the distributor drive slot parallel with the camshaft, and then insert the distributor?

Or...

typically with the cam gear at 6 o-clock the dist wil be firing #6 not 1 , to fire #1 the cam gear needs to be at 12 o-clock

Will it be ok to put the cap in the distributor, and put a mark where firing position for Cyl#6 is,and then just rotate the distributor housing to align the rotor and the mark?

      Make sure you turn crank clockwise and when the crank has been rotated twice make sure that the dots line up. Turning clockwise also takes all the slack out of the timing chain, if you need to further line up the dots by turning the crank counter-clockwise, re-do the assembly as the cam will be out. As stated above a degree wheel really helps especially if the cam won't line up then you may need an offset key or a different sprocket.   

After the timing cover was on, I did move the crank counter-clockwise a little.
Guess this means I have to tear off the timing cover again, which was an absolute bi7ch to bolt on, and start over again with the chain and gears. Or is it just to move it clockwise again to get back to where it was?




*Sigh*
I really make a mess out of what seems to be the simplest things.

[Moparal]

Here's the way I do mine. I use a wire on a bolt at the front of the block for a pointer. A big degree wheel is a plus.

[Chryco Psycho]

you can either rotate the dist to align the cylinder you want to fire or you can move the oil pump drive to where the dist lines up correctly , I do the latter , or you can move the wires on the cap to where the dist is now pointing
 if the gears lined up at TDC & you have the cover on you can now move the crank to any position , no need to remove the cover again
, move the crank back to approx 20* advanced with both #! lifters down & install the dist with the reluctoir lined up with the pick up & put #1 wire wherre the rotor is pointed & it should fire right up ... with fuel

[Ornamental]

you can either rotate the dist to align the cylinder you want to fire or you can move the oil pump drive to where the dist lines up correctly , I do the latter , or you can move the wires on the cap to where the dist is now pointing
 if the gears lined up at TDC & you have the cover on you can now move the crank to any position , no need to remove the cover again
, move the crank back to approx 20* advanced with both #! lifters down & install the dist with the reluctoir lined up with the pick up & put #1 wire wherre the rotor is pointed & it should fire right up ... with fuel

I didn't check if Cyl#1 piston was at TDC. According to earlier posts in this thread and the how-to Oldschool linked to, first it's to install the gears with the dots aligned, and then move to TDC? 

What I did was to make absolutely sure the dots on the old gears were aligned before I removed them.
The new cam should then be directly replacing the old cams position in relation to the crank, and the only difference in the gear setups is the distributor gear that's a bit off now.

So with the crank in 0 degrees at the timing tab (It was almost dead on 0 degrees when I got the timing cover back on, while the gears were aligned. Gears should still be aligned now)  if I pick it up the distributor gear, and reinstall it so the oil pump drive puts the reluctor lined up with the pick up, and then twist the distributor housing so the rotor gets to Cyl#1 firing position, it should be good to go?



The pre-lubing is also a bit of a dark magic to me at this point.
When the ignition have been sorted out, and the various accessories are bolted on, and it's almost ready to start the break-in, then it's time to prelube the engine.
All the how-to's I've read says to prime the oil system by using a drill and a priming shaft.
Now, won't this cause the distributor gear to spin, and also the cam?

I guess this will have to be done with the distributor gear off then?
Thinking of the time needed to reinstall distributor gear, intake, and carb, how long will the oil remain in the system, before it seeps down to the pan again?

If I by divine intervention should get the engine primed, all bolted on with oil still in the system, then it's time to fire up the engine. I saw a Car...  ...Chevy Craft article on breaking in a cam, and it was advised to prime the carb by filling gas carefully into the float bowl through the vent tube.
Sounds like a good idea, but should I stop pouring well before it's full, or is it just to top it off?


Also, the same article said to make sure engine rpm never remains constant for the break-in period. Engine speed should vary between 2,000 and 3,000 the entire time. This ensures oil reaches all points on the camshaft. Do not merely set the fast idle on the choke and walk away from the engine.

Do this apply to a Mopar small block too?

[Changin Gears]

To pre-lube the oil system only requires the distibuter and oil pump/distributer drive to be remove.  The drive can come out through the hole in the intake (use a screwdriver in the slot to work it out of the cam gear).

The main reason I like to pre-lube is to make sure the oil system is working and builds pressure.  Don't worry about the oil draining back.

Filling the carb is a very good idea, I use an old mustard squeaze bottle and fill through the vent tubes.  You can remove the sight plug and fill until it starts to run out.

2000-3000 RPM for the first 20-30 minutes is a must do when breaking in a cam.  Just watch the engine temp.  You don't have to do the full 30 min at once, if it starts to over heat.  Three 10's is the same thing.  Just don't let it idle until the 30 min's is complete.  Before you start it, give the idle speed screw a couple of turns to get it close to 2500 rpm.

[Ornamental]

When I played around with the distributor gear today, I noticed the oil pump shaft came up with the gear, like on this picture.


It looks like a hex at the end.
Guess this means that what I should get is a oil pump priming shaft.

It might be a little difficult to get a Mopar Performance Oil Pump Priming Shaft (Part Number:   DCC-4286800) here in Ford & GM-land, but just some long hex shaft should be possible.
Since I'm a little anxious that I might measure the hex end of the distributor drive wrong, what size is it supposed to be?


At first I tried to remove it via the distributor hole, but that didn't work out, so I pried it up with a screwdriver from underneath. How do you do it when you use a screwdriver in the slot to work it out of the cam gear, just use the largest flat driver that'll fit, and twist until it moves up, and then use pliers to get the gear drive up from the distributor hole?

Good to know that 3 x 10 mins is just as good as a full 30 min at once. 


The informative replys I've gotten from you guys are highly appreciated!

[Changin Gears]

At first I tried to remove it via the distributor hole, but that didn't work out, so I pried it up with a screwdriver from underneath. How do you do it when you use a screwdriver in the slot to work it out of the cam gear, just use the largest flat driver that'll fit, and twist until it moves up, and then use pliers to get the gear drive up from the distributor hole?

Yes, large flat screwdriver to twist it out, then needle nose pliers the rest of the way.

The hex end is 5/16.  Once while wanting to turn the pump at midnight, not having the corrct tool, I made one with some left over round steel and my bench grinder.

[71chally416]

If you have an old oil pump/distributor drive laying around grind the cam engagement teeth off of it with a bench grinder and then use a speeder wrench with a screwdriver bit to engage the gear to prime the pump. Works as well as a drill. You could also knock the pin out and remove the gear entirely, but then you have nothing to keep the screwdriver bit engaged. 

[Chryco Psycho]

I would not bother pre lubing it , it was a running engine & getting oil to the cam is virtually impossible by prelubing the engine
 you can position the cam gear so the rotor in the dist points where you need it to on the cap .
 Whn it first fires up bring the rpm up to 2000 then play with the timing , you will hear the engine smooth out as you advance it , if it starts to pop through the exhaust you have advanced it too far , get the timing advanced until the rpm stops rising but not popping