Garage Floor Coating

[VTMopar]

This may be a bit off-topic, but I would like to clean up my garage floor (where my challengers spend most of their time).  Mine is 25 year old concrete, with the normal amount of wear  a few cracks, oil stains, etc. (including some minor winter salt pitting near the door.   Originally it was painted, but most has worn off (except for around the edges).   I ran across a couple of ads in Hemmings for Do It Yourself Garage Floor Coating Kits - one for "Rocksolid Floors" and the other for "U Coat It"   

Does anyone have any experience with either of these (or other) products?   Any recommendations?   

Thanks
VT Mopar

[6packCuda]

I don't have any personal experience with it, but I've heard good things about U Coat It.

[JH27N0B]

I am wondering a similar thing for my garage floor.  In my old garage, I used one of these epoxy paints they sold at Home Depot.  It looked nice but didn't last, always flaking up.  Pretty worthless.  I'd love to be able to get a nice epoxy coating on my new floor (poured last August), like you see in factories and upscale garages but my budget doesn't even begin to cover that now.
I was wondering about these sealants they have, like Thompsons water seal.  If I used that would that help keep oil and grease from seeping in and staining my concrete??

[matt63]

Prep will be key on old floors.  I used the Behr 2 part epoxy with success but I only have 6 months on it.  This stuff is more durable than the Behr single part epoxy which a friend has.  It only cost $200 to do a 24x26 floor with the 2 part but you can certainly spend more.

[72hemi]

We did the u-coat system on my parents garage floor at their new house. Followed the instructions to a t and the coating didn't hold up at all. It is peeling horribly and started peeling within a couple months.

[Travis72]

I did mine about exactly a year ago using the Epoxy Coat brand:

http://www.epoxy-coat.com/

It's held up really well with no flaking or peeling.  Although to be fair I'm not driving in and out of it on a daily basis on hot tires, since my car is in pieces.  So until my car is running it won't get a true test.

As others have said prep is the key (like any paint job).  I got on my hands and knees and scrubbed mine with a stiff brush before acid etching the surface.  You can see the progression in the attached pictures.  I only had two issues.  One I had ordered the Epoxy Coat like 4 years before I used it, so after baking in my garage all that time the solids were hard to mix and I ended up with a more textured surface then I think you're supposed to get.  In reality its like it has a no slip additive or something.  I'm assuming if you buy it and use it you won't have that problem.  Two I had a couple small spots where I had fisheyes (pic 3500), but that was a prep issue since there must have been some residual oil or something.  No peeling or any other issues around the fisheyes.

Weld splatter will cause little burn pits which you can see in picture 4128 around the side cutters.  Jack stands and floor jacks haven't caused any issues.

For LOTS of reading and opinions, this is the best place to go.  There might be new brands that weren't out when I bought mine.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=20

Travis
72 Cuda

[mopower]

acid etching is usually first,, you must rinse multiple times, you must let it dry for at least 5 days before applying epoxy.stores like sherwin williams that have a commercial grade are superior.I do this for a living. its like anything else, prep is key

['Cuda Hunter]

I fully agree.  Preperation of the concrete is key to a good floor.  I used quickrete once and it still looks brillliant.  Just had to spend extra time on the floor during prep.
Sherwin Williams is the last paint I used and it worked great. 
Again, preperation is 98% of painting the garage floor.

[Mike70]

I used a 2 part epoxy from Home Depot or Lowes, don't remember which. The floor turned out great, and have had no problems for about 3 years now. The only thing I don't like is the no slip additive. When I put the epoxy down, you can see places where the additive is thick and it looks bad, Also, crawling around on it is like being on 40 grit sandpaper. On the other hand, it is definitely no slip. Maybe it was my poor technique with applying it. who knows.

[CrazyPete]

ive done it its a pain but once it done right you'll love it.  Ive had mine done for almost a year you need to etch the floor using meritic acid and a strong brissle broom.  Then wash the floor with a ton of water and get a big ass squeegee and let the floor completely dry for a few days.  Then i used rustolem 2 part professional floor cating epoxy system took 3 kits to cover my 30x36 shop 

[CrazyPete]

[RaptorF229]

I did my garage about a year ago. I used the rustoleum stuff sold at garage toys dot com. I used the grey with speckales then put the clearcoat over it. I have spilled engine oil and transmission fluid and driven hot tires on the floor. This stuff is great no peeling or any problems. I highly recommend putting the clearcoat on. I did my friends house without the clear and his seems to get dirty easier and doesn't clean up with a wipe of a towel. Garage toys dot co
 seemed to have the best prices on the stuff.

[VTMopar]

thanks everyone.    Will the Acid Wash pretty much clean up everything or do you need to do anything more if you've got 20 years of oil drips, etc.?    Also, where do you find the acid wash?   

VT Mopar

[Devil]

Take a look at my works site, we have kits with almost everything you need for the coating.

www.carguygarage.com

Ryan

['Cuda Hunter]

I used a power washer and powerwashed every square inch of my garage, twice.   
Then I acid etched.
After that, I rinsed throughly with water
Then, I rinsed again with water and a squeege.
At that point, the floor is ready for installation of paint.

I have done many a home like this.  Almost every custom home I build, the homeowners want pretty floors.

My next coat in my garage, will have a plymouth symbol and a pontiac symbol painted on before a clear coat.