This is off the top of my head,so forgive me if I list something out of order or forget something!
First, make sure all or most of the old seal is gone. I use a putty knife and a little lacquer thinner on a rag or paper towel.
Find or make a small block of wood about 1X2X3. Find a roll of masking tape.
If any of your molding clips were SCREWED into the window frame, they MUST be installed now. You cannot get to them once the glass is back in. The clip-on ones will go on after the glass.
The butyl ribbin seal should come with 2 small rubber riser blocks. (About 1" long X 1/2" X 3/8". Place these on the lower "sill" of the window frame, between the second and third clip studs. Your car might have screwed-on metal clip-like risers. These are typically too short! The rubber ones can go right next to these.
Now it's time to apply the ribbon seal. Very clean hands are a must, rubber gloves are OK too.
I start/end at the lower left corner, sticking and unrolling as I go, LEAVING the backing paper ON. When I get to a corner, I break the backing paper so the ribbon doesn't kink. Usually, I have a 2-3" long piece at the upper corners which I re-apply. I try to get the edge of the ribbon lined up with the inside edge of the window frame.
At the end, I leave an extra inch or two, then pinch off the rest of the roll with fingers, a knife or wire cutters. Once I know how much is too much, I do the final cut. I go about 1/4-3/8" LONGER than if the start/finish points were to just touch. The extra at the end point gets pressed on TOP of the start point and squished down onto/into it.
At this point, make sure the seal is pressed firmly against the window frame with your fingers. This is where gloves are good, otherwise your fingers will get black and sticky. You can remove the paper for better access and re-apply it when satisfied with the seal position. Do NOT get dust/dirt in the seal as it will lose its stickiness.
This is where I test fit the glass. Two people are better, but this can be done by yourself if you're careful. Set the glass down on the rubber blocks from an earlier step and "fold" it toward the body, setting the topmost part last. You should be against the paper and will be able to move/remove the glass easily.
Visually check for gaps all around and press down against the seal all around.
If you have gaps, more seal can be added. I take a 2-3 inch piece and roll it like play-doh until it's a smaller diameter(1/8" or so), then (after removing the backing paper) press it into the original seal, making it thicker where it needs to be.
Once you're happy with the gaps (or lack thereof), give it one more press all around for good measure.
I like to use a paint pen and mark the glass where the clip studs are, so that I can center the glass easliy later. Checking side to side with a tape measure or calipers and centering up are a good idea, too.
Now it's GO time!
Remove the glass and fold the backing paper back at the bottom corners about 1 inch at both ends. Do the same anywhere else the paper backer is broken . Usually at the corners. You can remove the small upper pieces altogether.
Now, get a small block of wood about 3/4 X 2 x 3 or something around that. This will be the prop at the top side. Put it in your pocket or on the roof for easy access.
Set the glass on the blocks and center it up. Carefully lower it toward the top and place the wooden block between the glass and window frame. Sometimes the block likes to fall out at the WORST time, so you can tape it to the glass or body with masking tape. I have no good rule or trick for this one.
Peel off the bottom paper strip first. Sometimes this is easier from INSIDE the car. Check the glass position again. This is your last chance to adjust it. Lightly press the glass against the seal.
Peel off/remove the remaining paper tape. Hold the glass at the top center, remove the wooden block and slowly lower the glass onto the rest of the seal. Press down on the glass all the way around. One person inside, one outside works well, but again, the lone wolf gan get it done, too.
You are DONE!
I like to wait a day, park the car in the sun and repeat the pressing once more. Re-install all your trim clips now. Some people like to fill the gap between the glass and frame with urethane caulk. It comes in a tube and is applied with a caulking gun. I saw it at my local NAPA today.
If you have any rogue gaps, they can be filled from the inside with a little extra butyl with the "rolling/pressing" method. Basically, stuff it in the gap from the inside.
If you didn't wear gloves, you'll have to wash your hands with lacquer thinner, then soap/water.
Snap the moldings on with a soft mallett and a soft cloth like an old t-shirt. Whack it just where the clips are. You can mark their positions on the glass with a marker or paint pen.
The first time you do one of these it will be very nerve-wracking, but it gets easier every time!
Topic: Correct Window-Weld Seal for Challenger Rear Window? (Read 7944 times)
