Hooker 5115 install questions

[tactransman]

I would go with the 5115's,they don't go around the steering linkage or trap the starter.

[the_engineers]

I have the ceramic 5115's.  The passenger side went in from the bottom.  The driver side went in from the top.  The only thing I don't like is that the pass. side tubes come very close to the oil pan up towards the rail.

I chose the Hookers because Doug's and TTI don't fit with the fast-ratio pitman and idler arms.

[shadango]

I would go with the 5115's,they don't go around the steering linkage or trap the starter.

According to those that have them, neither do the Doug's, so I went with those.....are you saying the Dougs do?

I think the 1 3/4" tubes on the 5115s are probably a might large for my engine....j heads and all.....heck, the Dougs might be too, for all I know....LOL.....

[the_engineers]

If you add the longer pitman and idler arms later, you'll have problems.

[shadango]

I know......saw that as one of the points that someone else made in another thread......but I don't plan on doing that........for now at least.............the possible loss of bottom end is more my concern....this isnt going to be a high-rpp car most of the time.......

[72bluNblu]

Here's the results from an article mopar muscle did awhile back on a 300 hp 360 crate engine.


TTI's and 1 3/4" Hooker Super Comps on the very end, right next to each other  As you can see, they're very similar. Surprisingly, low end torque is one area that the Hooker's are very close to the TTI 1 5/8" headers (these are for an A-body BTW). Yes, the TTI's win out slightly, but keep in mind this is a 300 hp 360. For a stock 318 the TTI's or Doug's would be a little better, but as you can see it isn't all that much better. Also, I'd think about where I was planning to go with the engine in the future. A set of ceramic coated headers will last a VERY long time, I know some folks that have run Hooker Super Comps for over 20 years now. I'd rather run an engine a little down on peak power for a little bit if I knew in the future I was going to upgrade it, I wouldn't be surprised if those 1 3/4" hooker headers pass the TTI's at some point between a 300 hp and 400 hp engine.

Here's the whole article. No comparison on the Doug's headers. And it seems that TTI must have been paying the bills on this one, I mean, yes, they came out on top, but it wasn't by a ton.
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/engine/mopp_0307_mopar_crate_engine_exhaust/index.html

[shadango]

Guess I will findout on my own next week, but would like a heads up-----  will the Dougs headers fit with a 90* oil filter adaptor setup on the car?

My engine has one.....just staring at the engine today thinking how nice the headers will look , and that came to mind...LOL 

[72bluNblu]

Not sure about the Doug's, I know the Hooker 5115's fit without one.

[shadango]

I already have one and am wondering if it will have to come off......

[422STROKER]

It will fit either way.

Tom

[shadango]

Thanks!        I just keep staring at the engine bay wonderin how well they will fit...

I guess I will find out!  LOL

[shadango]

Try getting the studs good and hot with a torch or MAP gas, and then touching a cheap birthday candle near the head and stud intersection.  The wax kind of creeps in there, and the studs turn out with a vice grip.  An old timer at an exhaust shop told me about that years ago, and it has worked several times for me.

Ok, before I go any further...YOU ROCK!   It turns out that I could not install the passenger side header with the front stud in, and it had to come OUT.    This method worked!   I dont know how or why, but it did! 

Thanks so much for volunteering that info!     You saved my butt!

The headers are on.....    I still have to button up a few things, but they are in.

I scratched the drivers side header just a little on the power steering pump...next time I will know to put masking tape on the tubes first!      

Also, there is one bolt on passenger side and two on the driver side that MUST be started while the header is pulled away from the head....ask how I know..... ......

All in all, not a bad experience....I havent cycled the steering yet or started it up yet...had tosave that for tomorrow....My neighbors wouldn't like me running the fish with no mufflers at 10pm.  LOL

One question:  Do the engine-to-tranny support bars need to go back on?  Had to remove them for the install and it doesnt seem like they will fit back on....?

A little clearance issue with the tranny lines, but otherwsie, looks good...will recheck tomorrow when I am fresh just to be sure.....one thing though...The dougs DO trap the starter, even though its a main starter.....I had to hang the header off the front stud and then snake the starter in from the back...install, then finish the header......hope the starter never goes bad.,...   Also, changing oil filters will mean removing it thru the top and probably dumping oil on the headers...... But other than those two minor things, they fit great!

You guys have been so much help!  The instructions say you have to lift the engine and all sorts of stuff!   I would have been doing that had you kind folks not volunteered so much  info on this thread and in others....so thank you ALL! 

[422STROKER]

Look good, You should be able to get the starter out of there through the backside(towards the trans) if need be.

Tom

[shadango]

Well, I guess if I ever have to pull it again I will try again, but I dont think so.....

Maybe my mini starter is different than others but it just misses being able to fit thru that "hole".....

I found I had to install the starter after hanging the header on the front stud...once the starter was in place I could then finish the header install......