Scaled harmonic balancer and timing

[shadango]

Chally....

Si senor...yo comprendo!  Thanks for putting it in simple form for me!   \

Sounds like that is a good way to try first and makes sense....thanks!

I was told that the engine had been rebuilt 10-15k ago, with a new double roller timing chain put in but otherwise redone to stock.....so I am hoping the only variable I am up against here is my own stupidity...LOL

[71chally416]

That's the only way I ever set mine. The idea with the "total timing" is to have it at optimum timing for the motor with no possibility of damage from detonation from too much advance. 

[shadango]

Well, I was fighting with my door locks (had to have them rekeyed...the pasenger side was a PITA to get that little rod hooked back up on!!!!) so I didnt try it yet...

I did check the intake manifold bolts and 4 or 5 of them were slightly loose......maybe a turn....one bolt (driver side next to rad hose) is actually stripped....it tightens to a point and then POP.  Bummer.......Carb body screws were just a tad loose , just barely.....

I rechecked that my plug wires were in the right order....but can someone tell me where wire/plug #1 should be on the cap?   Mine is on the driver side of the distributor, at the 9 o'clock position if you were sitting in the driver seat looking at the top of the distributor...(didnt they used to mark caps as far as what #1 was)...does that sound right?

[71chally416]

The cap is usually marked on top. Doesn't really matter where #1 is but for asthetics. If it isn't "book" right then you'll have to re-index your distributor/oil drive gear to put the rotor in the proper location. 

[shadango]

So what you are saying is that the location of the rotor relative to the engine #1 doesnt matter as long as the rotor is at plug wire #1 when the piston for #1 is at at TDC?

So really, it doesnt matter as long as the firing order is right.....

Ok, now I get it.

Hopefully will have time after work today to try.......crossing my fingers.  I keep stewing on this....

The other thing I am wondering  -- The distributor looks to be a plain old electronic ignition distributer.....but could it be set up differently for a MSD or something?  The car had no electronics when I got it......I just added a ecu.......





When I disconnect the vacuum it to set the base timing the engine can idle low....then I hook up the vacuum and the idle goes up......i am connected to the "timed" vacuum port and not manifold....I shouldnt be getting vacuum there at idle, right?

Maybe my carb is hosed?  WHy would I have vacuum at that port at a low idle?

I may try leaving the vac advance disconnected and see how it runs.....thats just for off-idle, around town, right? I wont hurt anything?

Should I try swapping out the reluctor or the pickup?

[71chally416]

Your gas mileage will go to hell if you unhook your advance.  I'll get back on later after work and look your post over again...

[Chryco Psycho]

except on my planet where unhooking the vacuum advance & increasing initial timing seems to send milage way up

[shadango]

Well, I set total timing at 36*....initial timing ends up being 18*.

Idle speed, on my dash tach says 1100....I have a hand held tach and it reads way lower so I think that it is bad or something....I suppose the dash tach could be wrong too....or maybe both.

In any event, it will idle in park, but it is lumpy and the engine shudders every now and then...

When I shift into drive the rpms drop by half and it gets really lumpy and wants to eventually die.........

I checked the IMS on my edelbrock and followed the setting instructions....I dont seem to get much of an rpm change (or any change really) when I mess with them......

 

[Chryco Psycho]

you need to put lighter springs under the metering rods so they stay down at idle & reducing the size of the idle bleed ports helps too except youy can`t do that on an eddy carb

[shadango]

OK, will look into the springs and what is involved there.....

Another timing question though.....

I lookedat the factory manual again and they say the following:

Ignition Timing at curb idle speed ---   TDC  +/-  2.5 *

!!!!!   !!!!!

I used the method of setting maximum timing at 36* and my initial is now reading around 14 or so....which seems to be what folks say is at least in the ballpark....

....but  " TDC  +/- 2.5 * "    ?

[71chally416]

The factory setting is not a performance setting. It's meant to keep the motor for being damaged by detonation and to have it run reliably. About any timing on a stock motor can be improved over what the factory setting is, even on new 2009 cars. That's what "tuners" do when they alter the timing on new cars.

Set it there and see if it runs better or not.   

[shadango]

Oh, I dont think I trust the manual now any more than I can throw it.....

I just dont want to cause damage or melt another set of plug wires!  LOL

[shadango]

you need to put lighter springs under the metering rods so they stay down at idle & reducing the size of the idle bleed ports helps too except youy can`t do that on an eddy carb

Well, I worked up the guts to start tinkering with the carb (yes, at 2 am...LOL)

Looks like I have orange springs in there, which the manual says is for 5" hg of manifold pressure.....Mine was around that as I recall....maybe more like 4....unless I was reading the gauge wrong...will check again tomorrow.....

I can step down to a yellow spring for 4 "hg or blue for 3"hg.

Just have to find the spring kit now....gonna also take a look tomorrow and see what jets are in there.......might as well know where I stand.

[Chryco Psycho]

go down to  the blue springs

[shadango]

go down to  the blue springs

Will do....

Now here is a weird thing.....figured if I could see what rods are in there I might be able to compare to the chart and see what jets may have been used.......the rods themselves have the number 7147 on them......the numbers in the manual all start with a 14.....

Any ideas there?  WOuld that be  .071x.047 ?  If so, and my guess it is, thats stock according to the manual.

They also appear to be safety wired (VERY VERY fine wire) to the step up pistons..the manual lists "retainer springs".....maybe thats what these are.how tough are they to take off in case I need to change rods too?