Scaled harmonic balancer and timing

[71chally416]

They all have that little wire on them. Just put it back on the way you take it off. It just loops over the groove in the rod.

[Chryco Psycho]

you are correct with the rod sizing
 the rods are easy to swap just pull the spring down a little to release the rod & pull it down again to insert a rod & lock it back in

[shadango]

I tried the blue springs.,..no change really......so I went up to the pink.....no change....

One other thing I noticed that it is doing....it idles rough and lumpy and at about 800 rpm.....if I gas it a few times the rpms stay high , around 1300-1400....if I tweak the throttle screw back just a hair the rpms drop right back down.....(and the linkage isnt binding or anything)......

At 4, 6 8 & 10 degrees initial timing the idle doesnt change much but the throttle response is HORRIBLE......very boggy.........so I bumped it back up to around 10-12 * and the reponse is somewhat better but still boggy and  the idle is the same.......

Manifold vacuum at 800 rpms is measuring 4-5" hg....when I drop it into gear, rpms go to 400-500 and like 1" HG of manifold vacuum...........

I feel like I am going in circles....

Was thinking about checking the float settings but I cant find the gaskets locally and have to order them...not sure if I could pull the airhorn assembly and check the floats and jets etc and then reassemble without new gaskets or not.,

I just feel like I must be missing SOMETHING.....

......could my control module be hooked up wrong somehow?  The (new) wiring harness I have had plugs for the 5 pin control unit and the 4 pole resister......I figured if I had any of that stuff wrong it wouldnt run at all...

 

(Thanks for the help and listening to me whine....I am justreally bummed about how this is (not) progressing.....

[Chryco Psycho]

yes you can pull the top off th ecarb & check the float levels without damaging the gasket .
 What you are missing is simple , at 1400 RPM you are draawing fuel through the bossters , when the idle drops down to 500 it is trying to draw air though the idle circuit but there is not enough vacuum to darw in enough fuel so .....
 what you are missing is the Air Bleeds , with vacuum readings as low as where you are at you need to block the air bleeds for the idle circuit , , I was able to do this on one car sucessfully , , there is a small drilled hole in the top of the booster for the primary circuit , , I think you have to have the top off the carb to get toi it , you can insert a piece of wire into the hole to restrict it this will dramatically improve idle quality ! New Holleys all have removable air bleeds to control this . Do I have a picture no , I don`t even have a carb here to take apart to take a pic of it

[422STROKER]

Sounds like a vac leak to me, 1" of Vac in gear is low.

Also if you have a stock distributor with stock springs it won't stop adding advance at 2500rpms, more like 3500+rpms.

Tom

[shadango]

Well, I have been all OVER this thing looking for leaks.  I sprayed carb cleaner and then brake cleaner around the manifold mating areas, carb base, vac ports etc...nothing.  I pulled the breather off and put my hand over it....vacuum would build up but the vacuum gauge showed no change, which I believe is good (please correct me if I am wrong..found this test somewhere else here).....

Chryco, if I could find a pic of what you are describing I would try it!   I looked thru the carb manual again but no reference to the hole on the top of the booster.......it says this carb has two idle air bleeds...but the drawing they have sucks pretty bad...would love to try it.....just jam some wire in there??

[422STROKER]

Did you try putting your hand over the carb throat and did the engine stall out?

Tom

If it stays running it must have a nasty cam in there.

[shadango]

I just went out and tried that Tom...I can stall it out.

I also found that the grommet for my pcv valve is torn......leaving a gaping hole....So I pulled the hose off the carb and plugged it...didnt change much but glad I found that.

(Do I have to pull the valve cover to get that grommet out?  Its a  mopar performance cover......whichm by the way is seeping oil THRU the cover...like it has a hairline crack or something....I'd do it now but have no new cover gaskets.......   )

[422STROKER]

It's always something isn't it?LOL

Hope you get it sorted out, I would expect the vac to be in the 5-8"(in drive) range at least with a decent cam in the engine.  Is the needle steady or does it bounce all over the place?  Also do you have adjustable rockers?

Tom

[71chally416]

Hummm... Do ya figure the ole valves hanging open syndrome again?

[422STROKER]

maybe vac sounds awefully low dont you think?

Tom

[shadango]

The vacuum that is there seems to be pretty steady.......at least at idle in neutral and 800-900 rpms

When I shift to drive the rpms go to like 450 or 500 and the vacuum is really low at that point and a little more eratic as I recall.

I do somehow feel like I made some headway today with the float adjustment seeming to do SOMETHING...LOL

Dont know if I have adjustable rockers....gonna hafta pull the cover thats leaking anyways.

Dumb question:  Are the valve cover gaskets for the cast mopar performance covers different from standard ones?

[422STROKER]

No, you can use parts store ones, I like the cork with weatherstrip adhesive to hold it to the Valve cover.

You'll get it, it may be something simple.  PCV working properly? Definately fix the PCV grommet.  Not sure if a crack in the vc would affect it though.

Tom

[Chryco Psycho]

if you want to send a pic of the top of the booster I can probably identify the hole you need to restrict

[shadango]

Thanks Chryco Psycho!  Here is are two pics...hope they are clear/close enough.





And, is it me or am I missing linkage for my secondary throttle valve!?!?!  The secondaries arent opening at all and the two holes on these linkages leads me to think I am missing something....or is the secondary throttle valve plates opened purely by vacuum/velocity?