Installing new header gasket drivers side - help needed?

[t1971Chally]

Hello all,

I am going to replace my drivers side header gasket today on my 71 chally with a 440 magnum.  It leaks in the back near the fire wall.  I have torqued it down and still leaks.  This will be my first time changing a header gasket.  I could use all the help I can get.  Do I need to use any kind of gasket sealer?  I know to use thread sealer around the bolts....however do I need to put some around the bolt holes on the gasket?  Any particular type of thread sealer better than others?  By the way, anyone know the exact torque specification for the header bolts?  I thought I remembered reading it somewhere on here as being 35 inch pounds (not sure)!  I have Fel-Pro gaskets part number qms 90029, traditional gasket material on one side, raised perforated steel material on the other.  Any help you can provide would be appreciated.

Thanks Ted

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Ted,

  No need to use a gasket sealer. You will need thread sealer on all the bolts after you clean them up. I used Permatex, but there are other brands out there.  Sorry I can't answer more of your questions.



  Mike

[BruteForce]

If it's still leaking with a fresh gasket and properly torqued bolts:

1. there's a warp or crack in the mating surfaces, or possibly a crack where the header pipe is welded to the mounting flange. You can check for warpage by laying a straight edge along the mating surfaces.

2. dirt, corrosion or damage on the threads make it appear that you've got full torque, but the bolt is still not snugged down tight

3. maybe a bit of dirt or a burr preventing the mating surfaces from lying flat against each other, or a bit of the old gasket

[Chryco Psycho]

I often use high heat Ultra Copper silicone when sealing headers , put a thin coat on bpoth sides of the gasket
not sureif you are working on a small block or big block but the end bolts on the small blocks & all the bolts on the big block go into the water jacket if the studs have been removed so use a teflon sealer or tape on the threads , I usually do not remove studs . You will lose coolant whne removing the bolts as well

[t1971Chally]

Hey guys,

Thanks for all of the input, ideas, etc.  I am planning on tackling this job Sat or Sun (depends on weather).  I will let you know how it comes out.  I just hope nothing is damaged or warped.  Well see.....I will post my results when I finish. 

Thanks Ted

[Moparal]

Noticed you said weather.   PLEASE make sure you have the car secured and jacked in the air propper. Also let someone know you will be working on the car. 

[BruteForce]

PLEASE make sure you have the car secured and jacked in the air propper.

Yeah, I agree. I have 6 jackstands under my car, including one under the engine and one under the tranny.

Don't ever use cinder blocks or concrete to hold up the car, as they can crack and crush unexpectedly.

[t1971Chally]

Hey guys,

Thanks for the safety reminders!!!  It never hurts to reiterate the importance of using jack stands etc.  Believe me when I say I learned that lesson about 14 years ago.  I bought this old Dodge Dakota with 200000 miles on it.  Got it home and decided I would change the oil real quick.  Yours truly here jacks the truck up with the scissors type jack that came with the truck.  I had it up pretty high on the jack.  Thought I would quickly slide under  and change the filter however the filter had other ideas.....it was not coming off without a fight.  As I laid there determining the best approach at getting the filter off......the truck came off the jack and compressed the HELL out of my chest/rib cage breaking two of my ribs.  It happened so fast ........  Took me what felt like an eternity just to be able to breathe again.  A trip to the hospital, x-rays, some pain medicine, and A SERIOUS LESSON LEARNED that I WILL NEVER FORGET!!!!!  I AM LUCKY TO BE HERE TODAY!!!!

Thanks again....

[brads70]

I often use high heat Ultra Copper silicone when sealing headers , put a thin coat on bpoth sides of the gasket
not sureif you are working on a small block or big block but the end bolts on the small blocks & all the bolts on the big block go into the water jacket if the studs have been removed so use a teflon sealer or tape on the threads , I usually do not remove studs . You will lose coolant whne removing the bolts as well

are you sure about all the holes on a big block going into the water? I checked my 440 ( it's out of a motorhome) and I thought only the end holes went into the water? I haven't put coolant in it yet or fired it? Maybe motorhome heads are different? I'm a newbie with big block Mopars? Maybe I have to pull the bolts in the middle that I didn't use sealer with?
Thanks Brad

[Chryco Psycho]

I have not come across any big block head without the exhaust studs going into water in all the holes.

[brads70]

I have not come across any big block head without the exhaust studs going into water in all the holes.

I'll have to check them out !

[BruteForce]

I AM LUCKY TO BE HERE TODAY!!!!

I'm glad of that!

[moparmaniac59]

I hope you torque it to more than 35 inch/pounds. I think it's more like 35 foot/pounds!!


                                 Matt B.

[t1971Chally]

Ok, just finished up changing out the gasket!!!  The Good and Bad news.......the good news - I now know and understand why it leaks.  The previous owner stripped out the last header bolt and used a helicoil to repair it.  When I removed the header, the tip of the helicoil was sticking out about 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch.  The bad news is I filed it off, installed new gasket with sealer, used thread sealer on the bolts, a and torqued all of them to 35 ft lbs except that bolt.  Could not do it without pulling the helicoil outward.  So I torqued it to the point I felt safe and IT STILL LEAKS.  So I called a local race engine builder and he said the best way to repair it would be to pull the head off and install a jacket into the hole.  I believe it is an insert that has a new hole drilled and tapped in it.  Do you guys have any knowledge of this process?  I have never pulled a head off before....is it an easy job or difficult one?  I am not afraid of the mechanical part of the job I am more worried about having the necessary tools.  Any advice?  Do you guys have any type of step by step instructions on pulling the drivers side head off?  Any help would be greatly appreciated? 
Thanks Ted

[brads70]

 What about drill/tap it out for the next size up 7/16? Save yourself a ton of work and money?