I always turn the crank to #1 cylinder TDC, and mark the rotor direction on the distributor housing, and mark the vacuum advance hose nipple direction on the intake manifold. YES, I know the gear is slotted, but if Murphy jumps in and anything goes too wrong I have a good starting point for quick reassembly.
I also disconnect the negative battery cable to kill the entire electrical system. Don't disconnect the positive one first, or put it on last as sparks can arc. I have seen this positive cable thing cause the very slightest spark, which ignited the acid vapors in and around the battery, ALL the caps flew off and acid went everywhere, like in your face. And NO, the battery was not being charged, was just a hot day. This is the crap that can happen when your a dealership mechanic working commission-only pay.
Good thing your not doing a Ford FE intake, they weigh 80 pounds, and using silicone end seals will eventually seep oil. Then the customer comes back all pissed off. I have gone back to cork on the FE's, and have no problems. The oil drain backs for the heads are at each end, right where the silicone beads end. The cork seal ends interlock with the intake gaskets, so the oil is forced to flow around the interlock.
