71 Barracuda - No Voltage at 5 amp fuse - Intrument and Parking lIghts out

Author Topic: 71 Barracuda - No Voltage at 5 amp fuse - Intrument and Parking lIghts out  (Read 2868 times)

Offline JawaCuda

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I'm new to this forum, and very happy to have found it.  I have a '71 Barracuda Convertible - I've done quite a bit of resto, but soon as I was ready to drive this summer had an electrical problem.

When I flip the Headlight switch so that the parking lights and instruments
lights should be on, neither of them work.  The headlamps work fine. I've
checked the switch and it checks out same as a good switch.  All the wires at the switches (headlight, panel dimmer) looked good and were connected.  The car has the Rallye cluster.


I do not  have any voltage at the small 5 amp fuse on the fuse block --(the
one that is in the instrument light circuit.). But the fuse is good.

Does anyone know if there should always be twelve volts at that fuse,
which would be routed to the instrument panel dimmer or somewhere that would
get to those lights?  I've been through the wiring diagrams and I'm still
somewhat puzzled. - I think if I know if there should be voltage at that fuse, then there would have to be a problem in the fuseblock or in  a wire leading to it, which is no longer supplying the  required 12V at the fuse.

Thanks in advance for any help




Offline 4Cruizn

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Welcome Jawa!!  How did you find the board??  Great place here for all MOPAR people!  Electrical system is not one of my strong points but I'm sure someone here will be able to help you!!  Do you have any pics of your convert???  We love them pics!!   ;D  ;D  ;D  ;D  ;D

Offline 71 DEPUTY

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OK- WITH THE HEADLIGHT SWITCH  on- there should be 12 volts at the black wire- this is for the parking lights and also feeds the dimmer switch- then it changes to a tan wire that goes to the 5 amp fuse.

If there is no 12 volts to the black wire- head light switch is bad.


John Mac

Offline MEK-Dangerfield

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Those dimmer switches are known to "open" up after time. Maybe that's your problem. Have you checked it with an ohm meter?

  Mike

Mike

1970 Challenger - SOLD
2016 SXT+.  1 of 524 SXT+'s in Plumb-crazy for 2016.

Offline MEK-Dangerfield

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Ok,
  Electronics is my trade, so I'll guess until I'm right ::) I don't have a wiring diagram with me right now, but for now I think 71 Deputy is onto something. If the middle position of the headlight switch is dead, then that makes sense.  Ignore my previous response as an open dimmer switch would only effect the interior lights. Stay tuned, I might have more guesses after I look at a wiring diagram ::) ::) ::)

  Mike

Mike

1970 Challenger - SOLD
2016 SXT+.  1 of 524 SXT+'s in Plumb-crazy for 2016.

Offline 71 DEPUTY

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10-4.... electronics is my game too!!!!!

Offline JS27N0B

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Make sure you have voltage at the park light fuse first as this usually feeds the park light circuit of the headlamp switch which in turn supplies power on the black/yellow wire to the front and rear marker lights(check bulkhead connector as well) and power to the 5 amp dash lamp fuse.
I would suspect poor power to the switch or a bad switch.
1970 Challenger R/T Convertible 383/auto 1 of 516 *now sold after owning for 18yrs
2007 Chrysler Aspen Limited AWD
2013 Tige' RZR 343hp
2016 PCP Challenger SRT Hellcat


Offline 71 DEPUTY

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JS27NOB- sorry- the power for all the lighting comes from the headlight switch- it's protected by it's internal circuit breaker. the fuse is after the headlight switch that feeds the panel dimmer and then the dash lights.

the factory manual tells all and I've redon many harnessess.

Offline JawaCuda

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This forum is great! - thanks for all the recomendations - I have a meeting tonight but I'll check this Wednesday. 

What is throwing me is I checked the continutiy of the headlight switch against a new one and it all checked out.  But on mine I could only get 12V from the top contact to the lower contact, which is for the headlight circuit (wire goes to foot switch as I recall).  But this was the same as the new one, which as I understand it was good.

Anyway, I'll recheck it based on what has been said here. By the way, there is only one fuse (the 5 amp) for both the insturment lights and the parking lights? I did not see a separate one for the parking lights.
« Last Edit: July 23, 2004 - 07:49:58 PM by JawaCuda »

Offline 4Cruizn

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This forum is great! - thanks for all the recomendations -


Yep this sh!t ROCKS!!

Offline 71 DEPUTY

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parking lights are off the headlight circuit breaker too!!!

Offline JawaCuda

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Well, I think its down to this - no power at my 5amp fuse - got to find out why. I will also test theory by jumping power over to that wire, to see if they work again.  I will post pics of the car once I get the new top put on.  Thanks, again, this forum is out of this world!

Jawa

Offline 72cuda

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Re: 71 Barracuda - No Voltage at 5 amp fuse - Intrument and Parking lIghts out
« Reply #12 on: August 03, 2004 - 12:07:47 PM »
Another 'feature' of 30-some-year-old electrical systems to remember:

Troubleshooting my horn - 12V on battery side of fuse, 0V on accessory side. No sweat, bad fuse.

Pulled fuse, looked OK, ohm-ed OK.

Put it back - 0V on accessory side. No short to ground.

wtf? ???

Turns out corrosion was insulating the fuse. After I scraped the fuse holder terminals, life was good.
Hornage restored.


Shiny is good.
72 Cuda 383 4-spd

Drive it like you paid for it