I cant freaking win. Sound like fuel pump?

[71chally416]

Another culprit could be your valves are hanging open when the motor gets hot if the pre-load on your lifters is wrong making it miss. The best way to check that is with the Intake off the motor.

[shadango]

Thanks Chally....

I ran out and pickued up a Duralast Gold coil....measures 1.7 on the primary and only 9.2 on the secondary......the current coil reads 10,900 on the secondary.

Probably not it, but I will try it anyways....if not, the next step I guess is to pull the intake........

 

[71chally416]

Pulling the intake is no big deal. The distributor doesn't pilot through it like on a SBC.
The biggest pain is draining the coolant, and you can kill 5 birds with one stone for the price of a Intake gasket set.
1) Block the heat to your intake while it's off and pick up 10/15 hp and eliminate any possibility of vapor lock.
2) Inspect your lifters and see if your cam is in good shape. All the lifters should have a crown and not be dished. If the lifter is mangled on the face, so is the cam lobe.
3) See what your lifter preload looks like.
4) See if it's been sucking oil into the Intake runner(s)
5) Fix the stripped out bolt. 

[73EStroker]

Shadango - I have a similar problem and I tend to think I am collapsing the rubber line from the tank to the pump. Starts with 5 PSI at the engine (running a return from the carb back to the tank) then took her for the first rip and she starts barfing out and will hardly make it up the hill. Virtually 0 pressure on the guage at the carb with the Mallory pump running. Waited for about 1/2 hour and got 2PSI enough to get up the hill. Temperature yesterday was about 100deg F. Thought about vapor lock but with a return should not happen. Hose is getting hot and collapsing. Steel line goes in today with short rubber connectors or braided line. I do not have a filter before the pump only after in the engine compartment.

[shadango]

73E, I dont think I have the same issue as you.....I still have pressure at the gauge, and there is fuel at the carb, or at least it seems so.....

Chally, thanks for the info there....you are right, would probably be a good thing to do, and still plan to.....to be honest, the stripped bolt scares me a bit..... (Remember this all a learning experience for me...LOL....have removed an intake or two, but never repaired a thread in a head.)

I took the car out with my son today.,..first let it idle in the driveway for 40 minutes.....so it was warm/hot when we left....then drove around for a good 30 miles...not one stall.

I measured the secodary circuit on the coil when it was hot and it measured 12,000 ohms.....the Accel was reading 13,500 up to 16,000.....not sure if that was it or not.....This happened before.....perfectly fine for a long ride and then the next day it craps out....but am crossing my fingers.

It wasnt as hot today as days past so maybe that factors in?

I would still like to figure out a way to have the filter after the pump and before the regulator but havent had that epiphany yet. So it remains before the pump for now.

I took advantage of todays luck (so far) and installed my right front door whiskers......all went well there...even adjusted the lock mechanism and now she seems to work again....

Hoping that today wasnt just an anomoly....I love working on this car...but when you run around in circles after one problem...its frustrating and really takes the wind out of your sails, ya know?

[71chally416]

I've never heard of anyone having two coils causing the same exact problem back-to-back, but I guess it's possible.

[shadango]

Yeah I kind of think the same way....

Now, I did go over the ballast connectors (seems that the Bill Evans harness connectors on mine are faulty)...one was a little loose...to the point where I touched it and the car died.....COULD be that that connection was going bad?

I also tilted up the fuel filter (still before the pump) a bit and the filter seems to stay almost full now.....

I dunno....could still be a fuel/carb/vapor lock issue...

If it were an intake leak or bad valve or spring, I would think it would be consistently poor all the time, wouldnt it?  Like I said, drove around 30 or so miles yesterday and stopped several times and just let it sit trying to make it die.....never did.

I HATE INTERMITTANT ISSUES!  I just want to solve this so I can move on!

[71chally416]

Now, I did go over the ballast connectors (seems that the Bill Evans harness connectors on mine are faulty)...one was a little loose...to the point where I touched it and the car died.....COULD be that that connection was going bad?

Absoultely.  An intermittent ignition can cause it to backfire through the mufflers and do all kinds of weird stuff. Here's a pic of the race car when the battery was bad. It would do this launching off the line, and then complete the rest of the run with no problem. We traced the problem on the computer readout after the run.

[shadango]

Well, I'll cross my fingers but I am not gonna count on it...LOL

Hey, COOOOOOL car! And cool pic!

[71chally416]

It was rather frightening at the time.  

[shadango]

I'll bet it was!  LOL Looked TOASTY!