Author Topic: Rotor Won't move now...was before.  (Read 2093 times)

Offline Topcat

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Rotor Won't move now...was before.
« on: August 17, 2009 - 10:53:47 PM »
This week end I put the spindle, KH disc calipers new pads and new rotors together. Basically making major assemblies for each side.

Everything looks right. But the rotors won't move. I loaded the bearings initially then backed off so I know the bearings aren't over tightened. I also used my caliper tool twice making sure the piston is all the way back as far as possible.

Did I do something wrong or are they just super tight till I get the calipers set once brake fluid PSI kicks in. Maybe the pads are thicker than OEM specs? I really don't want to take everything all apart again if I don't have to.
Mike, Fremont, CA.





Offline 67vertman

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Re: Rotor Won't move now...was before.
« Reply #1 on: August 18, 2009 - 12:06:20 AM »
Did you check to see if the caliper are hitting the rotors? or maybe the caliper mounting bolts hitting the rotors?

How hard was it putting on the loaded calipers?



Ron - Born and raised in Southern California

I got the 1970 Cuda, but still need the hot blonde to ride shotgun!

First car -1969 Road Runner 383 4sp

Current ride - 1970 Barracuda 440-6 4 sp Dana 60  (4:10)

Offline Topcat

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Re: Rotor Won't move now...was before.
« Reply #2 on: August 18, 2009 - 12:15:37 AM »
Pretty tight fit getting over the rotor. I even loosened the caliper mounting bracket bolts to work it on. There are some cooling webs all on the inside of the rotor where the large bearing is at. But it looks low enough not to interfere.
Mike, Fremont, CA.


Offline 67vertman

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Re: Rotor Won't move now...was before.
« Reply #3 on: August 18, 2009 - 12:30:09 AM »
Did you go with the 1" thick rotors?  It sounds like it is draging on the pads.

Not sure what you could do to remedy that though.



Ron - Born and raised in Southern California

I got the 1970 Cuda, but still need the hot blonde to ride shotgun!

First car -1969 Road Runner 383 4sp

Current ride - 1970 Barracuda 440-6 4 sp Dana 60  (4:10)


Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Rotor Won't move now...was before.
« Reply #5 on: August 18, 2009 - 01:38:47 AM »
usually the kit supplies thin shim washers to center the caliper over the disc , I suspect you do not have clearance one side or the other of the rotor

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Offline Topcat

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Re: Rotor Won't move now...was before.
« Reply #6 on: August 18, 2009 - 09:08:14 AM »
There wasn't any shims included.

One oither question. The caliper seal lip faces out. Correct?
Mike, Fremont, CA.


Offline Bullitt-

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Re: Rotor Won't move now...was before.
« Reply #7 on: August 18, 2009 - 09:59:06 AM »
You just might have the caliper adapters on the wrong sides... Don't ask me how I know.

Yes the seal/piston faces out.... Are these pin or slider calipers?
 I have pin calipers & they were loose until hydraulic pressure was applied
« Last Edit: August 18, 2009 - 10:02:20 AM by Bullitt- »
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Offline Super Blue 72

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Re: Rotor Won't move now...was before.
« Reply #8 on: August 18, 2009 - 10:39:26 AM »
Pretty tight fit getting over the rotor. I even loosened the caliper mounting bracket bolts to work it on. There are some cooling webs all on the inside of the rotor where the large bearing is at. But it looks low enough not to interfere.

Here's my  :2cents:.  Please forgive me on the details as I have done brakes before but not on my Challenger.  I don't think this is normal as you don't want to drive around with the pads dragging as this will glaze the pads.  Same effect as riding on your brakes around town.

What year Cuda are we dealing with?  I know there are slide/pin type calipers.  Not sure what we are dealing with.  :dunno:

If the caliper with the pads loaded are tight to even go over the rotor, my guess is that the issue is that the issue is with the caliper/pads. 

Without the caliper bolts in the caliper, does the rotor still seem to have the same amount of resistance to movement as when everything is bolted up?  :clueless:

If there is the same amount of resistance to movement, then the issue is with the caliper/pads.  Make sure that the piston is 100% flush with the caliper and that the inner pad (the side with the caliper piston) is 100% flush to the caliper surface.  Ditto as well for the outer pad, making sure it is 100% flush with the caliper surface.  Make sure that none of the piston seal is getting caught between the pad and the caliper/piston.

If there is less resistance to movement with the caliper bolts not installed (if this is correct for this particular set up.), then my guess is with the way the new calipers are setting on the old caliper brackets (I assume that you are reusing the old brackets as I did not see them on the list of new parts.) 

Last but not least, contact the eller to see if there are known problems for this set up and make sure all the part numbers are correct.  :2cents:

Hope it gets all worked out!  :thumbsup:
1972 Dodge Challenger Rallye 340, AT, Code TB3=Super Blue, SBD=8/17/1971.  Yes, a Rallye without the fender louvers from the factory because of the body side molding option.

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Offline Topcat

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Re: Rotor Won't move now...was before.
« Reply #9 on: August 18, 2009 - 09:53:51 PM »
You just might have the caliper adapters on the wrong sides... Don't ask me how I know.

Yes the seal/piston faces out.... Are these pin or slider calipers?
 I have pin calipers & they were loose until hydraulic pressure was applied

Kelsey Hayes pin type 70-71 calipers. Switching the caliper adapters...I should try that out. Other than that, everything looks correct visually.
Mike, Fremont, CA.


Offline Topcat

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Re: Rotor Won't move now...was before.
« Reply #10 on: August 18, 2009 - 10:02:45 PM »
Here's my  :2cents:
What year Cuda are we dealing with? 71
  I know there are slide/pin type calipers.  Not sure what we are dealing with.  :dunno:
Pin Type

If the caliper with the pads loaded are tight to even go over the rotor, my guess is that the issue is that the issue is with the caliper/pads.  Yes I agree.

Without the caliper bolts in the caliper, does the rotor still seem to have the same amount of resistance to movement as when everything is bolted up?  :clueless:
Seems the same...no difference
If there is the same amount of resistance to movement, then the issue is with the caliper/pads.  Make sure that the piston is 100% flush with the caliper and that the inner pad (the side with the caliper piston) is 100% flush to the caliper surface.
100% sure the piston is as far down as possible
  Ditto as well for the outer pad, making sure it is 100% flush with the caliper surface.  Make sure that none of the piston seal is getting caught between the pad and the caliper/piston.
Inner pad has play but outer is tight onto Rotor

If there is less resistance to movement with the caliper bolts not installed (if this is correct for this particular set up.), then my guess is with the way the new calipers are setting on the old caliper brackets (I assume that you are reusing the old brackets as I did not see them on the list of new parts.) 

Last but not least, contact the seller to see if there are known problems for this set up and make sure all the part numbers are correct.  :2cents:

Hope it gets all worked out!  :thumbsup:
Mike, Fremont, CA.


Offline 67vertman

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Re: Rotor Won't move now...was before.
« Reply #11 on: August 18, 2009 - 11:33:06 PM »
Mike,

I have been thinking about your issue.  Is the caliper centered over the rotor? And/or is it floating on the caliper pins and not hanging up.

I also think that the pads may be slightly larger than factory or the rotor is bigger (wider) than factory so even with the caliper fully retracted the pas are binding on the rotor.

I have never heard of anyone shaving pads before, but you could get the rotor turned to make them smaller, but first I would eliminate everything else.

Maybe measure the rotor width, pad width and then measure the inside of the caliper with the piston fully retracted. 



Ron - Born and raised in Southern California

I got the 1970 Cuda, but still need the hot blonde to ride shotgun!

First car -1969 Road Runner 383 4sp

Current ride - 1970 Barracuda 440-6 4 sp Dana 60  (4:10)

Offline Topcat

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Re: Rotor Won't move now...was before.
« Reply #12 on: August 19, 2009 - 12:32:01 AM »
Mike,

I have been thinking about your issue.  Is the caliper centered over the rotor? And/or is it floating on the caliper pins and not hanging up.

I also think that the pads may be slightly larger than factory or the rotor is bigger (wider) than factory so even with the caliper fully retracted the pas are binding on the rotor.

I have never heard of anyone shaving pads before, but you could get the rotor turned to make them smaller, but first I would eliminate everything else.

Maybe measure the rotor width, pad width and then measure the inside of the caliper with the piston fully retracted.

Well back to the drawing board as they say.
I'll take them back apart again and try first on the adapters (wrong sides?) and how the calipers fit on. Re double check the caliper pistons being all the way down (which I'm very certain they are) Then check the pins. I'll post some pics this week end on all this.

I just know when I get this solved I'm gonna  ::)
Mike, Fremont, CA.


Offline 67vertman

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Re: Rotor Won't move now...was before.
« Reply #13 on: August 20, 2009 - 04:36:34 PM »
Mike......what the status?    :popcorn:



Ron - Born and raised in Southern California

I got the 1970 Cuda, but still need the hot blonde to ride shotgun!

First car -1969 Road Runner 383 4sp

Current ride - 1970 Barracuda 440-6 4 sp Dana 60  (4:10)

Offline 426HEMI

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Re: Rotor Won't move now...was before.
« Reply #14 on: August 20, 2009 - 05:44:04 PM »
I was wondering that myself?
Got a pretty good start on my M46 optioned Barracuda restoration but now it is on hold till I can gather more funds.  Still need a few parts for it.  SIU Graduate 75 AAS Automotive Tech, 94 BS Advanced Tech Studies, 1997 MSED Workforce Education and Development

1970 M46 Barracuda
1998 Dodge Darango

Gordon