Author Topic: TURN SIGNAL  (Read 1420 times)

Offline mopar440

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TURN SIGNAL
« on: August 20, 2009 - 06:52:30 AM »
 :Hey guys! im new ! been surfing web and joined ! without a doubt this is the best forum.  Heres my problems, ill just stick to the car. 1971 challanger , new 65 watt alt 2 field [says ground and field stamped in case ? ] worked out all my bugs , ie; fuses blowing, fixed meltdown in firewall junction, [2 problem term. 16, 18,] reconnected alt to batt post on starter relay, thought some idiot by passed amp because they wernt as smart as me cause im going to wire it  "FACTORY" ouch ! i plead ignorance ,i didn"t know the bypass was standard practace to aleviate further problems! okey everythings great except when i turn on my turn signals or flashers altnator wire gets super hot about half way to batt terminal on relay, and # 18 gets very hot as does middle ignition red wire at connector at base of steering wheel. using # 11 gauge braded house wire [Looks ok]  from alt to relay. funny thing since ive repaired and replaced a ton of splices all over, it doesnt get very hot at the starter relay term. like it used too. I actually think splices were disipating some heat as they would get hot too. Ignition switch grounding out ? any ideas what i might not be checking . allready replaced turn signal switch ,there was nothing wrong other than busted cam, so it didnt hurt to replace .  okey the last clue , turn signals bleed to other side when using one or the other, and when i use flasher ,head lights pulse with flashers , pulse is not extreme,  but is easily noticible   thanks guys !




Offline quapman

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Re: TURN SIGNAL
« Reply #1 on: August 20, 2009 - 06:50:04 PM »
Check all your grounds and 1157 bulbs first and we'll go from there.
My name is Steve and I'm addicted to Challengers...


Offline Bullitt-

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Re: TURN SIGNAL
« Reply #2 on: August 20, 2009 - 06:52:12 PM »
BE SURE that fusible links are in place from the alternator to the battery & from the battery to the harness.
   Pulsing lights are not unusual especially if the engine is not running,  You need to go through every  wire/splice & re-do the best it can be. solder/heat-shrink  Use wire that is at least as large as original, remove any add on wiring that may be screwing things up. 
   Disconnect everything where there is a plug then one by one working from the main harness out plug in the sub-harnesses until the issues come back. Then you can trace down the short with a volt meter in that section of wiring.
   One more thing, some of the symptoms you describe are classic bad turn signal switch.. Do not rule out the possibility that the new switch is bad , you would not be the 1st to get a new bad part.
Wade  73 Rallye 340..'77 Millennium Falcon...13 R/T Classic   Huntsville, AL
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Offline VTMopar

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Re: TURN SIGNAL
« Reply #3 on: August 20, 2009 - 07:57:43 PM »
Bullit:    I just sent you a pm on an unrelated matter.....   

VT Mopar
VT MOPAR

Offline dodj

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Re: TURN SIGNAL
« Reply #4 on: August 20, 2009 - 08:38:30 PM »
Sound like you've had a lot of wiring fun :1zhelp:
If the problems only show up when you use your turn signals, there is a likely a ground in your turn signal wiring that shouldn't be there. Try unplugging the rear body lighting connector in the driver's kick panel. Then try your signals. Do the wires still get hot? That red wire on the steering column connector is part of the turn signal wiring. If your wiring is not getting hot with the connector unplugged, you will have to follow your wires from the kick panel to the rear of the car to find out where they have the insulation rubbed through and are touching ground. If they are still getting hot with the rear body connector unplugged, you have to follow the wires to the front turn signals. You mentioned some melting occurring with the bulkhead connector(s). Make sure you have completely taken care of that problem.

"when i turn on my turn signals or flashers altnator wire gets super hot about half way to batt terminal on relay, "

If a wire is getting hot "half way" somewhere, there is a high resistance at the hot spot. Likely a splice made some years ago. Must be repaired, it will cause grief later if not taken care of.
Good luck :popcorn: :popcorn:

Scott
1973 Challenger  440 4 spd 
2007.5 3500 6.7 Cummins Diesel, Anarchy tuned.
Good friends don't let friends do stupid things. ........alone.

Offline mopar440

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Re: TURN SIGNAL
« Reply #5 on: August 21, 2009 - 06:41:32 AM »
Guys thanks a lot for tips !!!!!!!!!!!!!!  very helpfull ! will start  checking tips out , thanks again !

Offline dodj

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Re: TURN SIGNAL
« Reply #6 on: August 21, 2009 - 10:14:19 PM »
:and when i use flasher ,head lights pulse with flashers , pulse is not extreme,  but is easily noticible
Your headlights pulsing with the flasher is probably because when power is sent to the turn signals, a ground is causing a short circuit which is dropping your car's 12vdc to something lower (like 9vdc). The lower voltage causes your headlights to dim until your turn signal flasher goes off, no ground - voltage back up to 12vdc, lights get brighter. And over and over.
Scott
1973 Challenger  440 4 spd 
2007.5 3500 6.7 Cummins Diesel, Anarchy tuned.
Good friends don't let friends do stupid things. ........alone.

Offline mopar440

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Re: TURN SIGNAL
« Reply #7 on: August 22, 2009 - 04:20:22 AM »
thanks , going to go after it again sat or sunday.    hmmm.. after this , if i succeed ,i'll  be 2 or so notches under a guru, on electrical issuses,  Ha Ha  !converting to electronic ignition is next level to learn .there is so muccchhh info here , and help !!  :wavingflag:

Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: TURN SIGNAL
« Reply #8 on: September 04, 2009 - 12:03:14 PM »
new 65 watt alt 2 field [says ground and field stamped in case ? ]

Your Alternator has 2 field termainals right?   The older pre 1970 alternators had one of the fields grounded with a screw. These used the mechanical voltage regulators. make sure that you aren't using that or your battery will melt down.

Make sure that you are using FUSIBLE LINK WIRE. by the starter relay to power up your car. It sounds like you bypassed it with regular wire. When those other wires start getting hot, your fusible link should have blown already.
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0