Filler over DP epoxy, Yes or no ?

[nick68]

I would like you guys opinion. I was already told by the Paint supplier that I could use filler over DP epoxy. But I want a second opinion from the real world bodyworkers. Can you give examples of time frames and ti[ps ?

thnx guys and gals

[Topcat]

Good question. I'd like to hear more on this too.

[bentpshrods]

   First off I am no expert by a long shot but I am in the process of striping my car down to bare metal and repainting it.  You can get a lot of good information and help from www.autobodystore.com   Being my first try at this I had a few areas where I had to go back and reapply my filler over the epoxy primer in spots that showed up low.  Just take some 80 grit paper and scuff the area to give the filler something to bite to---apply the filler--and reprime.  One thing I have found is to use a guide coat when reblocking to really help you get it straight.    Doug

[shawge]

From what I've read, it's ok to apply thin applications of filler over primer after it's out of it's recoat window.  I've always tried to get all of my filler on bare metal but there are always a few low spots hanging around.

Autobodystore.com is a great resource.  One member (Serge) did an experiment with filler and epoxy primer

http://autobodystore.com/filler_&_epoxy.shtml

[dutch]

epoxy is the only primer you can use filler on.  Sand with 180 grit and you`re ready to go 

[matt63]

It is preferred to do the majority of the filling on bare metal.  Saying that I did some minor filling over epoxy primer as there was some low spots after blocking.  I would think that you want the epoxy to be fully cured before filling over top though.  Some guys recommend sanding off the epoxy in the area, scuff w/36 grit, apply  and sand filler and then reapply the epoxy.

[dutch]

epoxy on filler...     thats new to me...      I`d say epoxy on bare metal,  filler on epoxy ( or bare metal ofcourse ) and high build primer on filler.   blocking epoxy should be fun... 

[nick68]

Good, info.  What  I will being doing is basically a skim coat. There are not any dents, just dings. thnx guys, and for the link

[426HEMI]

The reason behind not putting any filler over paint is that the paint will always dry more and cause cracking and what if the person that put it on did not apply it correctly and it lifts or something just thinking and wondering if it would be a good idea or not.  I am not sure I would even put filler over epoxy.  Been doing body work for about 40 years now.  If I am spending the money on a good paint job or even the materials the way the cost these days if I would want to trust anything like that.  You are wanting a long term paint job right?  I just would not want to take any chances.   

[dutch]

problem in my case is that I don`t have a proper garage to do my bodywork in ,so I could not leave the metal bare for a very long time. What I did was take a panel at a time ,clean off all paint and whatever was on it , repair what`s damaged and seal with epoxy.  Now that I have repaired all panels and put them all back to the car, I started filling and blocking. It had been about 5 months since the last part got epoxy before I started sanding and filling, so I suppose it will be dry by now.... 

[matt63]

epoxy on filler...     thats new to me...      I`d say epoxy on bare metal,  filler on epoxy ( or bare metal ofcourse ) and high build primer on filler.   blocking epoxy should be fun... 

epoxy seals the filler.  You still apply high build over the epoxy before blocking. Don't forget to scuff the epoxy before applying high build if you wait too long ie apply high build after the mfg's advised recoat window.

[RUSTY Cuda]

Got the same problem Dutch, working out in the yard, Used por 15 & tie coat primer on the last car, had some issues, this time I'm coating epoxy primer on the metal, as you are & then the light body work(metal repairs were done first)
I was actually looking at it as a seal for the metal, since all putty & primers are pourus, did my trunk lid & doors off the 73 that way & no problems to date on those parts(about 3 years)
Since most products are urathane these days I don't think there's as many issues as the old stuff, I just try & follow all the instructions  & go at it! Rich.

[nick68]

After I epoxy and  let it dry 7-8 days and scuff and fill and block sand i am going to reshoot it with a reduced epoxy , I forget the formula, its at home tho'.  Then hit it with the high build primer with in the recoat window. This should give me a great base and seal up everything nicely.

 Thanx for the tip about the epoxy shrinking while it drys. I would have waited a day then skim coated the whole car in one day. Sand the next few days then reshoot the reduced epoxy all within the 7 day recoat window.

Now I have an excuse not to rush.

[E-Body Products]

Strip panel or car to bare metal.  Epoxy Prime (Flash Rust can start within minutes after a car is stripped) as soon as possible to prevent rust formation.  Filler over epoxy primer.  High build sanding primer next.  Seal primer.  Next, top coat with either base clear or single stage.

I see this often on TV (Speed Channel), etc...

[Skeletoil]

I use light coats of filler at times over primer. Always primer over bodywork. I use DP 40 by PPG. Best to have it on clean metal. You can stop sanding filler with 320. Ease up when you get close to the final time sanding with 320.
Sidenote: Windex cleans paint surfaces as well. I use it all the time. Windex also cleans waterbased airbrush paints from the airbrush. Stay away from Windex with scents and moisterisers, you don't know what they have in them. Windex will not clean Urethane from guns/airbrushes, Laquer thinner does. It's ok to use mild solvents to clean asphalt and such from the body, just be sure to finish with a bath with Dawn dish washing liquid, scent and moisteriser free. Then Windex. WD 40 cleaned my interior to like new. I'm not being cheap, it works. I would rather spend my money on car parts than body supplies. Painting for 25 years.