engine cooling problems,HELP!

[70 RAG TOP]

 I am rebuilding a 383 magnum for my 70 Challenger. Engine was made in Nov 1969. 727 trans., pwr steering, pwr brakes, and no A/C.  I'm not sure yet, but it most likely will have to be bored 30 over.  Aside from that, It will be built to stock specs.  I purchased the engine years ago and put in new gaskets and got it running.  From day one it has never run very well and had issues with running hot.  I want to make sure that my new engine will last a loooong time, so I need to do what I can(with newer technology components)to improve the cooling system.  I assume that the block will run somewhat cooler once it is boiled out by the machine shop.

 1)  I have a stock water pump with one 1/2" and one 5/8" hose outlets. Is the 1/2" outlet restrictive?  Would a water pump w/ 2 larger , same size outlets flow better?  Would it be better to swap out the stock one for a high volume, aluminum water pump?  I am not concerned with keeping the engine completely original, I am more interested in performance.



 2)  What is the proper fan set up for my engine?  Right now it has a rigid 5 blade fan/no clutch.

                           A)fan/no clutch
                           B)fan with clutch


 3)   Do the synthetic coolant additives work or are they just gimmicks?


Any help/ suggestions welcomed.


Thanks in advance

Mike   

[Chryco Psycho]

there are a Lot of factors that control cooling effectivness
in answer to ?1] it might be slightly less restictive to have 2 5/8 " nipples on the water pump the but the heater core also has 2 different sizes so the gain would be between none - minimal
2] Vitually ever 70 I know of had the ridgid fan but the clutch is better technology & is far more effective so I use clutch& 6 or 7 blade fan  on virtually any build.
 the high flow water pumps can help but the reality is the thermostat should close & keep the water in the rad long enough to properly cool it then open & switch the coolant with the hot coolant in the block & close again so it allow a faster transfer time between cycles & could cool it slightly better
3] coolant additives tend to eliminate the bouindry layer of boiling gas between the coolant & the hot surface so the transfer of heat to the coolant is more effective .
 There are many other factors to having efficent cooling , , having enough coolant volume , adding more cores to the rad , having the upper hose on the opposite side from the bottom hose helps , using a 180* T stat helps ,advancing the timing a few degrees up to 12-16 * at idle can make a huge difference , just make sure it doesn`t over advance above 3000 rpm , you want to keep around 38 * total , if the engine is runing lean it can increase the temp significantly .

 So why does Penske Suck , he has helped some of the best drivers get their start , has been nothing but passionate about being involved in racing all of his life , he has been very successful in business & has moved a lot of his profits into supporting racing endevors ?

 

[70 RAG TOP]

there are a Lot of factors that control cooling effectivness
in answer to ?1] it might be slightly less restictive to have 2 5/8 " nipples on the water pump the but the heater core also has 2 different sizes so the gain would be between none - minimal
2] Vitually ever 70 I know of had the ridgid fan but the clutch is better technology & is far more effective so I use clutch& 6 or 7 blade fan  on virtually any build.
 the high flow water pumps can help but the reality is the thermostat should close & keep the water in the rad long enough to properly cool it then open & switch the coolant with the hot coolant in the block & close again so it allow a faster transfer time between cycles & could cool it slightly better
3] coolant additives tend to eliminate the bouindry layer of boiling gas between the coolant & the hot surface so the transfer of heat to the coolant is more effective .
 There are many other factors to having efficent cooling , , having enough coolant volume , adding more cores to the rad , having the upper hose on the opposite side from the bottom hose helps , using a 180* T stat helps ,advancing the timing a few degrees up to 12-16 * at idle can make a huge difference , just make sure it doesn`t over advance above 3000 rpm , you want to keep around 38 * total , if the engine is runing lean it can increase the temp significantly .

 So why does Penske Suck , he has helped some of the best drivers get their start , has been nothing but passionate about being involved in racing all of his life , he has been very successful in business & has moved a lot of his profits into supporting racing endevors ?

Thanks for your input.  great advice.  In regard to penske sucking, it is not directly related to Roger Penske or most of his endeavors, but has to do with penske truck rental.  I work for an equipment rental co.(construction and homeowner equipment) and the owner added the truck rental for supplemental income.  The reason it sucks is because it was VERY time consuming and often  caused our core business to be neglected.  I also (and probably  this is the main reason I hated it so much) had to deal with RUDE A-holes that thought that they were the only person on the planet and would take out their frustrations on me.   Penske also talked the big talk, about supporting us , but left us hanging most of the time.  I liked going to work until penske came along.  It was the bane of my existance and I would often go into fits of rage when dealing with it.  I am now at a different location and do not have truck rental.  I  am a much happier person now!! That's why PENSKESUX.