Front disk is HEAVY!!!!!!!!!

[shadango]

I am slowly collecting the parts for my drum-to-big disk swap on my fish.

I have been ordering parts for the 80 NYer.

Got one of the disks yesterday.

HOLY SHNIKES!  Its HEAVY!!!!!!!

It has the races preinstalled, which is nice......

The studs seem short though, compared to the ones on my drums.

Wondering if I will have to swap out the studs.....

Also picked up a hardware kit for the slider calipers I got.  $7   

[ajantics]

  I received my 11.75" rotors a few days ago and I am thinking the same thing  These things weigh a almost 25 pounds a rotor!  I am considering sending them back to summit and ordering the SSBC Big Bite rotors or the Summit Racing Extreme Performance Cross-Drilled and Slotted Brake Rotors.

http://www.ssbrakes.com/commerce/detail/index.cfm?nPID=7646

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-DSEP-5311L/

[shadango]

$210 each on the first ones...OUCH!

The latter ones.....that is just the rotor.....you need hubs too, right?

Mine is hub and rotor, one piece.

I paid $64 for the rotor /hub unit I got...lifetime warranty.

[dodj]

Time to hit the gym 

[MEK-Dangerfield]

I have the rotor-hub units. It definitely surprised me with how heavy they were. At least I know the wind won't blow my car away.   

[cudazappa]

you can offset that weight with light alloy rims!  or get 'em drilled and slotted for a couple ounces... either way, small price to pay for excellent braking...

I did this swap on my 79 Diplomat

that's me HARD on the brakes after a long sweeper coming into a hard 180 turn...  I had comments from people telling me how brave I was for late braking like that... TEE HEE!!!!

On my to-do list for my challenger... got all the essentials... gonna be a busy winter...

[HP2]

Well, it is a trade off of braking force for the dollar spent. The stock 11.75 is 25# for $50 which is $2 a pound. A Wilwood 10.5" kit is only 10# for $800 or $80 a pound. A Wilwood 12.19" kit is 12# for $1200 or $100 a pound. Certainly lighter is almost always better, but it always comes back to the old saying; speed costs, how fast can you afford to go. So, unless you racing where fractions of a second make a difference, the stock discs will perform suprisingly well, especially for the dollar spent.

[haroldbrown2]

I just finished lifting my complete driver side front end onto the bench after my torsion bar "fight" and it's all intact, rotor and all and I was shocked how heavy it was.

[shadango]

you can offset that weight with light alloy rims!  or get 'em drilled and slotted for a couple ounces... either way, small price to pay for excellent braking...

  And the drums I have are pretty hefty anyways......

[cudazappa]

i do have the choice of going to 11" rear brakes (why I still have all this stuff laying around, I dunno).  So I asked some handling guys about it and they said what I'd gain going to the larger rears wouldn't be worth the added weight, so I decided to stick with the 10" rear drums.

[HP2]

Back in oval track days, I would use 11.75 up front with ribbed drum 10" in the back. Front discs had a duct tube running in to the center of the rotor for fresh air up front and I'd would put a 2" hole in the bottom of the backing plate with a short duct hanging under the car would pick up air and route it through the drum and exhaust through two 1" holes at the top. Even with that work, we would put some serious heat in to the system, but I could still out brake the competition all night long.

[boydsdodge]

Back in oval track days, I would use 11.75 up front with ribbed drum 10" in the back. Front discs had a duct tube running in to the center of the rotor for fresh air up front and I'd would put a 2" hole in the bottom of the backing plate with a short duct hanging under the car would pick up air and route it through the drum and exhaust through two 1" holes at the top. Even with that work, we would put some serious heat in to the system, but I could still out brake the competition all night long.

Thats what I think I'll try on my Challenger.

[the_engineers]

Did you mate the ducting to the splash shield, or how did you anchor it?

[HP2]

Just used zip ties and 4.5" aluminum duct hose. The aluminum would hold its position reasonably well until it got smashed.

For a more street friendly set up, I'm going to try bending up a sheetmetal mount that will bolt into the backing plate holes and use smaller 3" silicone hose.

[the_engineers]

Just used zip ties and 4.5" aluminum duct hose. The aluminum would hold its position reasonably well until it got smashed.

For a more street friendly set up, I'm going to try bending up a sheetmetal mount that will bolt into the backing plate holes and use smaller 3" silicone hose.

Possible to get some pics of that set-up?