Has to be grounded. Checking that switch can fool alot of people. It's the right switch.
I am confused.
Looking into the hole where the switch goes, there is the black plastic (whatever) part that moves when you move the selector.
From what I understand, there are two parts the switch....the center pin needsto be grounded on the metal contacts in park and nuetral for that part of the switch to work....
But it appears that the plastic part of the switch's plunger is what makes the b.u. lights work or not.....there is detent on the "reverse" section of the tranny's slider that allows the switch to be at rest....thru the rest of the gears the switch would be depressed inaward.
That jives with my getting a continuity reading when the switch is at rest and the not when you depress the switch plastic part.....when you have continuity (switch at rest/plastic part not depressed) the connection is made and the lights would be on. WHen depressed the connection is broken and the b.u lights go out.
My issue is that in reverse and the swictch screwed all the way in the switch's plastic part is being pushed in.....
Along the kines of what Bullit posted...if the switch idnt screw in as far it would function properly.....Or, the switch itself is too long where it goes into the tranny.
Now, Terry had told me that my tranny is a 78 from a pickup truck....could the switch be different on that year tranny?
