Holley Float Adjustment Problem

[cwestra]

The center carb on my 6-pak is flowing gas excessively when I crank the engine.  I suspect an improper float level.  I took it apart and checked to be sure that the seat is functioning by blowing into the inlet line and lifting the float and it does close.  I reassembled the bowl and filled it through the sight opening until it flowed out.  Blowing into the inlet again I can clearly get air to pass through to the bowl, seeming to indicate that the level is too high.  But I can't get any more adjustment out of it because I lose engagement with the nut (adjuster goes too far down and I lose engagement - see pic).  Any help would be appreciated.

Also, how much pressure should the spring that resists bouyancy force be?  I am used to Carter carbs where their is no spring resistance to float lifting.

[Chryco Psycho]

you may need to bend the float arm a bit to get into the correct adjustment range & or replace the needle & seat

[cwestra]

you may need to bend the float arm a bit to get into the correct adjustment range & or replace the needle & seat

I assume I should remove the float to do this so I don't damage the seat, right?

[cwestra]

I am a bit confused.  With the float bowl full (at the sight level) I adjusted the float down all the way (see pic).  I would have thought that with the float at this level the seat would be forced closed such that I could not blow air through the inlet, yet that's not the case.  Can't really see bending the float down more than it's already at.  Am I missing something here?

I gotta say, that spring pressure keeping the float down seems high.  Again, I'm not used to Holley's so maybe that's the way it is supposed to be. 

[swede-cuda]

 :wave:ok,ive only messed with 4 barrell holleys, and if i remember it right, on them the spring is really soft and is pushing from under the float :horse:and im no expert but i would think that the air blowing test method stops here :scared:im thinkin that blowing air through the fuel inlet would always open up the seat,nomatter how perfect the setting is? ???ive had a few beers now but i think you should take a needle nose pliar and just bend the tab a little and do a dry setting for a start.overandout

[Moparal]

You need to bend the float tab more so you have more threads sticking up out of the bowel or you will end up having other leaks on top very soon.  Take the bowel completely apart and clean it better. You got a bugger in the seat somewhere

[cwestra]

You need to bend the float tab more so you have more threads sticking up out of the bowel or you will end up having other leaks on top very soon.  Take the bowel completely apart and clean it better. You got a bugger in the seat somewhere

I think the problem is in the spring.  I can adjust the float down pretty far and still cant get the fuel to close the seat.  But when I manually lift the float with the bowl off, I can easily get it to close with little effort.  I removed the spring and reinstalled the bowl (without the spring).  Filled it until fuel was at the sight hole, adjusted the level and now the seat closes fully.

Has anyone had this problem before?

[moper]

one other thing... on 6bbls especially... get a set of the nylon reusable float needle gaskets. Theres and outer (the nut) and inner (the screw). You will find out how easilly the can seal that way... The paper ones leak after one adjustment.

[ShelbyDogg]

After you are finished playing with that float..................

Get a new needle and seat.   Some of those new ones are viton coated and sometimes stick open or closed.  Some people like them because they seal better. Some are available with a bigger hole for more fuel or alcohol. When racing, I only bought the steel ones with a bigger orifice. I was lucky being in St. Louis since Wise Speed Shop here, is a Holley dealer and has EVERYTHING for holleys hanging on their walls.

A quick test is to switch it with one of the outboard carbs to see if one of those starts overflowing.

You should have changed that first! Also change your fuel filter!

[cwestra]

I'd like to know if anyone has had a similar problem to mine, with regard to the float spring on Holley carbs preventing the float from lifting.  Although removing the springs appeared to solve the problem for me, I am not sure why I even had the problem in the first place.  Has anyone had a similar situation or heard anything about this?

[ShelbyDogg]

I'd like to know if anyone has had a similar problem to mine, with regard to the float spring on Holley carbs preventing the float from lifting.  Although removing the springs appeared to solve the problem for me, I am not sure why I even had the problem in the first place.  Has anyone had a similar situation or heard anything about this?

You should try a new float. The spring's pressure should be overcome easily by the lifting force of the float. Did you have a metal float in it?

[cwestra]

You should try a new float. The spring's pressure should be overcome easily by the lifting force of the float. Did you have a metal float in it?

Yes, metal floats.  And with the spring out, the float moves up and down freely.

[ShelbyDogg]

Yes, metal floats.  And with the spring out, the float moves up and down freely.

Spring holding it down?

Here is a pic. Where is this spring?

[cwestra]

Spring holding it down?

Here is a pic. Where is this spring?

#77

[the Wizard]

Are the metal floats still sealed?  As in they should obviously not have any liquuid inside....right?  If they did that might give the symptom you are suggesting, and it's not all that uncommon....would reduce the bouyancy force.