Rust...?s Updated 11/28/09

Author Topic: Rust...?s Updated 11/28/09  (Read 3709 times)

Offline 67vertman

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Rust...?s Updated 11/28/09
« on: November 09, 2009 - 10:59:28 PM »
I have surface rust on the inside of my deck lid, on the back side of the lid and under the support skeleton, where it is very difficult to get to.   What are my options? 

Option 1,
I could have the lid soda blasted, but that won’t remove the rust, and will remove the seam sealer, then sandblast and E-coat the lid. 

Option 2,
Sandblast the inside, but it probably won’t remove all the rust, and coat it with Por 15.

Option 3,
Treat the inside with rust dissolver, something like they do in gas tanks, and then coat the inside with a sealer.

Option 4,
Pour and or coat the areas with, Rust Mort.

OR………your suggestions.



« Last Edit: November 28, 2009 - 05:56:42 PM by 67vertman »



Ron - Born and raised in Southern California

I got the 1970 Cuda, but still need the hot blonde to ride shotgun!

First car -1969 Road Runner 383 4sp

Current ride - 1970 Barracuda 440-6 4 sp Dana 60  (4:10)




Offline E-Body Products

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Re: Rust...?s
« Reply #1 on: November 09, 2009 - 11:07:17 PM »
Get it chemically dipped to remove paint and rust, then have it e-coated with EDP primer. :2cents:

Offline e-tek

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Re: Rust...?s
« Reply #2 on: November 09, 2009 - 11:09:11 PM »
Acid dipping would be the real/best way to get that gone...but once again it'd be hard to prime/re-coat and will rust again in no time. (So many people fail to consider that when dipping their entire car!)

I'd use Rust Mort or any Phosphoric Acid treatment (I use Metal Ready from POR 15). It will neutralize it. Then - if your OK with black - apply POR 15 to where you can get to, using either a brush or a gun. If you aren't OK with black (I wouldn't be), you can topcoat POR15 with their "tie-coat" primer. If you only want to spot repair the area, and don't have painting equipment or skills, any paint supplier can mix up your color and put it in a spray can.

Good luck!

Offline 67vertman

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Re: Rust...?s
« Reply #3 on: November 09, 2009 - 11:17:34 PM »
There are no acid dippers near me   :walkaway: so that option is out unless i want to ship it somewhere.  I don't care if its black as the car is going to be black so I think that may be my best bet.



Ron - Born and raised in Southern California

I got the 1970 Cuda, but still need the hot blonde to ride shotgun!

First car -1969 Road Runner 383 4sp

Current ride - 1970 Barracuda 440-6 4 sp Dana 60  (4:10)

Offline Topcat

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Mike, Fremont, CA.


Offline 67vertman

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Re: Rust...?s
« Reply #5 on: November 10, 2009 - 12:20:07 AM »
Thanks Mike.  I went to thier website http://picklex20.com/ and checked it out, then I ordered some.  It looks like just the ticket for my rust issues.

Once I try it out I will keep everyone informed.



Ron - Born and raised in Southern California

I got the 1970 Cuda, but still need the hot blonde to ride shotgun!

First car -1969 Road Runner 383 4sp

Current ride - 1970 Barracuda 440-6 4 sp Dana 60  (4:10)

Alaskan_TA

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Re: Rust...?s
« Reply #6 on: November 10, 2009 - 12:43:18 AM »
I taped up all the holes in mine except one. (one of the big ones)

I poured about two quarts of Ospho into the last hole, then taped it up as well.

I sloshed, turned, rotated & flipped it for about 5 minutes

then I drained it & let it dry over night.

I repeated that process again the next day, but let it dry for a week.

Then, same process again with laquer thinner.

2 hours after the thinner was drained, I repeated the process again with POR15.

So far so good, three years ago & no sign of new rust.

Offline Topcat

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Re: Rust...?s
« Reply #7 on: November 10, 2009 - 12:51:41 AM »
Then you can try this out too after if you want.

http://www.ruststoponline.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=111&Itemid=128

Great for parts that aren't to be painted.
Mike, Fremont, CA.


Offline 426HEMI

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Re: Rust...?s
« Reply #8 on: November 10, 2009 - 07:33:57 AM »
Good thread I will have to deal with some on my doors and a few other places.  Most of my sheet metal will be new.
Got a pretty good start on my M46 optioned Barracuda restoration but now it is on hold till I can gather more funds.  Still need a few parts for it.  SIU Graduate 75 AAS Automotive Tech, 94 BS Advanced Tech Studies, 1997 MSED Workforce Education and Development

1970 M46 Barracuda
1998 Dodge Darango

Gordon

Offline 67vertman

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Re: Rust...?s Updated 11/28/09
« Reply #9 on: November 28, 2009 - 06:05:39 PM »
Ok, I got a chance to use the Picklex 20 today.

I worked fairly well and was easy to use.

First, I wire brushed the rusted areas, first photo is what I started with and then after wire brushing and vacuuming the area.





Next you coat the area, spary or brush, I used a brush, then you wait one minute and then rebrush the area with the same brush, and then wipe dry.



Then you let it dry throughly, and you can spary an epoxy primer over it, which I will do at a later date.  here is the photo after it dries for 20 minutes.




Ron - Born and raised in Southern California

I got the 1970 Cuda, but still need the hot blonde to ride shotgun!

First car -1969 Road Runner 383 4sp

Current ride - 1970 Barracuda 440-6 4 sp Dana 60  (4:10)

Offline 67vertman

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Re: Rust...?s Updated 01/04/10
« Reply #10 on: January 04, 2010 - 08:06:18 PM »
OK, I saw a post on Moparts where this guy made up a home brew of rust dissolver.

It consisted of; 1/2 gallon white vinegar, 1/3 cup salt and 8 oz Lemon Juice (I doubled the receipt), you let it soak in it for a minimum of 12 hours.  I got a chance to try it out this weekend and it worked great, although I let it soak for 48 hours just to be sure.  It didn’t damage the paint or the seam sealer.  I still need to treat the inside with metal prep to protect the bare metal.

If you get a chance you should try it.


Before pics....



 

After....





Ron - Born and raised in Southern California

I got the 1970 Cuda, but still need the hot blonde to ride shotgun!

First car -1969 Road Runner 383 4sp

Current ride - 1970 Barracuda 440-6 4 sp Dana 60  (4:10)