Suddenly lost spark, on two cars!

[CHL2T]

Right, well I have found the bone is bad, swapped in a good/ used one and still nothing.
So, just for the record here, since I have electronic ignition, is it certain that I have fried the coil and ecu box when the bone went bad?
How can I check if the ecu is fried?
When I checked the coil I found that according to the above "coil TEST bad" I have the exact opposite as described??

[72rtchallenger]

Right, well I have found the bone is bad, swapped in a good/ used one and still nothing.
So, just for the record here, since I have electronic ignition, is it certain that I have fried the coil and ecu box when the bone went bad?
How can I check if the ecu is fried?
When I checked the coil I found that according to the above "coil TEST bad" I have the exact opposite as described??

proably fried them  I dont know how to check it,maybe somebody here can tell you..I had problems like this and I converted to an hei system
here is one site  http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/MoparHEIConversion.htm or
http://duster318.freeservers.com/tech/hei.html  or
http://redneckfabrication.com/images/BSA_Custom_High_Performance_Ignition/GM_HEI_CONVERSION_MOPAR.jpg
I had trouble with the new ecu components being cheaply made and not holding up and this is a cheap swap and I have no more problems,,does away with the ballast and only needs the module and a blaster2 coil,,left the old ecu for stock look(still plugged in but broke out the pins for no connection) and mounted the module were the ballast went on a piece of heat sink and you use a jumper wire were it plugged in to ballast on one side,,and put the coil in stock place and works great,,this is just my opinion as many on here prefer the original,,it does make my tack run off alittle,as I need to put some type of filter on it,,a member here UKCUDA knows how,,the tack works on mine but is off without the filter,,I prefer the setup but that is just me,,something you can consider,it provides a hotter spark,and you have to regap plugs to .045,,hope you get it fixed,good luck

[dodj]

The resistor is for limiting power to the coil and if your resistor was shorted, the coil probably got fried, ecu is probably ok.
 

Right, well I have found the bone is bad

Was it shorted or open?

[CHL2T]

The resistor is for limiting power to the coil and if your resistor was shorted, the coil probably got fried, ecu is probably ok.
 Was it shorted or open?

The bone was/ is broken no signs of a short.

[CHL2T]

New coil, and bone, still no spark
While testing for voltage at the coil I noticed that my new bone was smoking, turned key off, checked bone, cookin hot and actual resistor coil is now the color of a toasted marshmallow

I am going to yank the ecu from the Cuda and swap it out with the one in the Challenger although I am hesitant to do so as I don't want another fried ecu

[dodj]

With your ignition on while testing for coil voltage, the resistor will heat up but I don't like that "colour of a roasted marshie though! . Did you have it in run longer than say 10 minutes?  I think the ecu just supplies the coil ground to stop/start primary current so I don't think it could be the cause of excessive current. The resistor and the coil resistances added together are the current limiting factors when the ecu is completing the cct. With that kind of sign of excessive current I would definitely check the physical condition of the wires from the resistor to the coil looking for a ground.

[CHL2T]

Found that the run side connection on the ballast was loose, put on a new connector still nothing. As a side note, the bone has stopped heating up and still has the proper resistance. And no, only had it on for a minute at a time.

So far I have,
12+ at the battery
12+ at the start side of ballast
6 or so at the run side (may be the other way around, but you get the idea)
6 or so at the coil (new, all ohms in spec)
Still no spark
Still hesitant to rob ecu from cuda, don't want three cars with no spark 
Need to buy cheapie ecu

Does anyone think that it could be the voltage regulator??
I am thinking not, since I have had that problem before on the 66 and it would start and run until anything electrical was turned/ switched on the car would immediately die.

What is really bummin me out is the simple fact that in all the years of driving the car, it has NEVER given me any trouble like this.

Could it be the allmighty doesn't want me or my daughter driving it yet?? 

[72rtchallenger]

one check on the ecu is to put one ohmmeter lead to a good ground and the other lead to ecu unit pin 5,,the ohmmeter should show continuity between ground and the control unit pin 5,,if it doesnt exsist ,try removeing the ecu unit and clean the mounting on the back side to make sure it is grounding properly ,,if it doesnt get continuity to a ground and to pin 5 it is bad

[Bullitt-]

One more little detail that may be being overlooked...start & run are two different wires, you can be getting power on the run side but not on the start side, you will need someone to hold the key in the start position or rig your meter so you can see from inside to see it is getting 12v.
  Have you looked inside the distributor to make sure everything is kosher?

[72rtchallenger]

One more little detail that may be being overlooked...start & run are two different wires, you can be getting power on the run side but not on the start side, you will need someone to hold the key in the start position or rig your meter so you can see from inside to see it is getting 12v.
  Have you looked inside the distributor to make sure everything is kosher?

check rotary button an magnetic pickup

[dodj]

start & run are two different wires, you can be getting power on the run side but not on the start side, you will need someone to hold the key in the start position or rig your meter so you can see from inside to see it is getting 12v.

Sounds like a good next step.

[CHL2T]

Gonna go throw in a cheapie Oreilly ecu, check the inside of the distributer and do the cranking test while I'm there.
I'll letcha know the verdict when it comes in ;-)

[CHL2T]

It fired right up with the new ecu, after running it for fifteen seconds I shut it off to look under the hood and make sure the drop light cord was completely out of the way, went to fire it back up and........NOTHING! no crank, no headlights, no horn, just completely dead.
Checked the fusible link, good
Checked for 12 at the disconnect, got it
Checked power to bone, good
Power to coil, Good
Power to voltage regulator and new ecu, good
Power to Starter relay and starter, good

No power at fuse box at all, including the ever reliable batt terminal on the bottom of the box

Can crank engine from starter relay but won't start

HELP! I'm dying here!

[Bullitt-]

I'm betting on a bad connection at the bulkhead....no power on BAT terminal

[72rtchallenger]

I'm betting on a bad connection at the bulkhead....no power on BAT terminal

first place to check is there