Suddenly lost spark, on two cars!

[CHL2T]

Already checked the bulkhead, all connections are clean and look like the day I cleaned them, popped the fuse box from the connect and all wires look to be in great shape, no frying, no shorts

[Bullitt-]

Ok traced the sucker on the diagram... goes through the ignition switch wiring 1st.
 Check the wide flat connector at the column.    You have a diagram?
 

[CHL2T]

Ok traced the sucker on the diagram... goes through the ignition switch wiring 1st.
 Check the wide flat connector at the column.    You have a diagram?
 

Oh man, that's what I was thinking. Here is the problem with the wide flat connector, it's not there! The column is out of another year and susequently the 70 only connector was hacked off and rewired using butt splices long before I got the car.
I shall check the connections there in the morning.

Which diagram do you have? I just have a ancient chilton and a link to some online diagrams and they didn't tell me jack squat (or I'm just stupid and need to look again)

[Bullitt-]

only thing on line I see is http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=27
The service manual, Mine is a '73, gives a little more detail.

   You know it can work so it's just a matter of finding the loose connection.
 Look for the bigger wires, red I think.

[CHL2T]

All I have in the way of a service manual is also a 73 but for Plymouth, I'll check it out too
That is the same link that I use
I'm gonna check into the splices and see what I can see, mayhap it will be obvious, but I aint holdin my breath

[CHL2T]

After checking the butt splice connections, I have found they are all tight and look good.
I am now going into the column to check the switch connections if I find nothing there its off to the junkyard it goes

[Bullitt-]

Did you probe for power.... still could be at the bulkhead, good looks don't make an electrical circuit.

[CHL2T]

Pulled apart column (easy as pie once you've done it a few times) found power at ign switch in the off position, on position, nothing, start and accessory nothing, when in either acc on or start there is no power at the red wire, only when in the off position.
Am I making any sense at all here?
Is this telling me that the switch is toast?
Thanks for everyones help by the way

[Bullitt-]

Dunno...my local Oreillys shows them in stock for 70 challey

BWD - Ignition Switch

Part Number: CS82
Online:

Available
Store:

Available
Add to Wishlist
Price

$33.99 Each

[CHL2T]

Funny, I am there right now on another screen looking at the very switch

[Bullitt-]

[dodj]

The red wire is the battery feed. It shouldn't matter what position the switch is in. 12VDC all the time 24/7. On the other hand, I'm having a tough time coming up with a workable theory for the disappearing power?!?! The ignition switch just directs that 12vdc to the run, start, or acc functions. It doesn't (I don't know how it could) switch off power to the red wire - the red wire FEEDS the switch. A severe short would drop it to zero volts but you would burn up your fuse link,etc...not the prob
Could you humour me and check whether the 12vdc disappears from the red wire again? Is it red on both sides of the butt splices?
Gotta 'hand' it to you handm - this is a weird one.

[CHL2T]

 I'm tellin ya, this one has got me stumped, at least I'm used to these things and they don't get me as  they used to
I just got through replacing the switch with no result, I guess at this point I may need to wait till it spring and it warms up a bit and trace EVERY FREAKING WIRE or take it to an electrical shop.

And yeah, the power disappeared on the red wire in all positions except off

It is cold and dark now, so I shall try again toworrow
TBC

[CHL2T]

I forgot to mention that while in there I was dinking with the turn signal cam and....whoops! snapped off the right turn tang! 
But on the plus side, I was able to install, and get it to work, a complete lock cylinder with key housing thing and key in buzzer tang, I had from the 74, by drilling a hole in the 70 housing because, you guessed it, different than the 70 cylinder (I was just gonna use the 74 housing, but it's green and needs to be refinished)
After thorough examinations of the column, I think it is out of something other than a E-body (no depress lever to remove key" thing and that they just swapped what they could from the 70.
 

[CHL2T]

Alrighty then, after tearing the entire dash/ bulkhead/ harness and really cleaning the connection points I finally have power to the wiring and it was all due to that goshdarn # 16!!!!

Now since I have the mother fletcher all torn apart, I might as well go ahead and clean and grease all the connections, fix all the lights and turn signal cam and then let my son deal with it in twenty years

I'll letcha know when it's finally running again

I'd post a pic or two but.......ongoing trouble with certain functions constantly prevent it