Thinking about replacing my M/C which one is the best?

[brads70]

Hi everyone!
I bought new brake flex lines from Russell ( braided stainless) last winter and still haven't got around to putting them on yet. I hope to tackle that soon, definitely before spring! While I'm at it I might as well put on new calipers and wheel cylinders too. They look original (1970) and I don't feel comfortable driving around with them on. Cheap insurance really! I haven't driven the car yet so the condition of the system is unknown.
So while I'm at it what/where do you recommend for a new master cylinder? It's a non power master, I'd like to keep it that way. Now it's a stock unit with a bolt on cap but I don't care about originality just function. I have read on here about different bore sizes for the master. I understand why/how that works just want a tried and true combo. Anyone know of parts to stay away from?
I have small drums on back(10 1/2) and big rotor upgrade on front (11 3/4).
Thanks in advance!

[ShelbyDogg]

Brad,  Your bolt down M/C is for drum brakes only.

With Disk brakes on the front, you have to go with a disk brake master cylinder. For my Cuda, I just went to AutoZone and got a lifetime warranty one for a 72 Cuda. Everything around then was available without power assist. You might try one from a 73 Dodge Dart, non-power, disc brake.   Try Oreilly's, Advance Auto, Rock Auto, etc.   Mine was less that $20 when I got it.

[brads70]

Thanks for the reply,
When I look at the rock auto catalog, depending on the year of Challenger I pick I get different Dorman part #'s I know 70 was either disc or drum on the front but the other years what came stock for front brakes? Just disc or either? I also notice different bore sizes?

[ShelbyDogg]

I forgot to say you will also need a proportioning valve off of a later model too, so your rear brakes don't lock up when you hit the brakes. Since you went with bigger front brakes, you should plumb in an adjustable one like Mopar performance sells. All of my stuff came off of a 72 Challenger when I switched over from 11x3" front drums.

 As far as master cylinders go, I get mine from AutoZone for a 72 Cuda or Challenger with Disc brakes. I never cared about bore or year apperance. I use that M-C for my '70, '72 and '72.  One good thing about AutoZone's lifetime warranty is that I can get a full refund, 10 years later.

[dodge freak 2]

Or 5 months later when super cheap Auto Zone crap breaks!

M/C I would buy a unit that is brand new, casting-everything. Not some 40 year old worn unit with new seals done in Mexico. $100 seems alot compare to $20 with a lifetime warranty but if the M/C goes out on a high speed stop and you wipe your car out, Auto Zone isn't going to give you nothing but another half worn out $20 M/C 

[autoxcuda]

Hi everyone!
I bought new brake flex lines from Russell ( braided stainless) last winter and still haven't got around to putting them on yet. I hope to tackle that soon, definitely before spring! While I'm at it I might as well put on new calipers and wheel cylinders too. They look original (1970) and I don't feel comfortable driving around with them on. Cheap insurance really! I haven't driven the car yet so the condition of the system is unknown.
So while I'm at it what/where do you recommend for a new master cylinder? It's a non power master, I'd like to keep it that way. Now it's a stock unit with a bolt on cap but I don't care about originality just function. I have read on here about different bore sizes for the master. I understand why/how that works just want a tried and true combo. Anyone know of parts to stay away from?
I have small drums on back(10 1/2) and big rotor upgrade on front (11 3/4).
Thanks in advance!

I run a 1 1/32 Mopar Performance aluminum master. Been on the car since 1994 and no problems since. Pedal is nice, solid, with a lot of feel.

I have 11 3/4 front disks and 10 1/2.

[quapman]

I have not done the swap yet, but when I do, I'm going aluminum. I think there's a thread or two on here about it. I believe you'll need an adapter plate as well, if you've got manual brakes. The right prop valve is a must also, as previously mentioned.

Dick Ehrenberg from Mopar Action magazine sells the setup on fleebay, but it might be cheaper elsewhere.

[brads70]

Thanks all! Steve do you have a link to the e-bay set up?

[quapman]

Dr. Diff has this kit:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mopar-aluminum-brake-master-cylinder-pkg-15-16-bore_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2a034c5362QQitemZ180443960162QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories


Here's the adapter from Summit:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mopar-Performance-Master-Cylinder-Adapter-5249315_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ad608abe5QQitemZ390137949157QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

E-berg doesn't have them right now, in fact, his listings are pretty slim lately.

[brads70]

Thanks!
I notice that it says the stock brake line fittings won't work? Is this common? Is there one that will use stock fittings? Is 15/16 the bore size I need?

[somedaysoon]

 If you decide to do the alum and adapter let me know I just pulled one off of my car.  I'm replacing it with a hydro booster unit. But I think this is a 11/8" bore.  Pete

[brads70]

If you decide to do the alum and adapter let me know I just pulled one off of my car.  I'm replacing it with a hydro booster unit. But I think this is a 11/8" bore.  Pete

 How did it work for you? I'm guessing not so good hence the hydro boost? Did you have this hooked up as power or manual breaks? Do you have disc drums or 4 wheel discs? I could be interested if it will work for me? What did you want for it?
Thanks Brad

[somedaysoon]

 I never really gave it much of a chance, I've probably put about 200 miles or less on it, but obviously wasn't real comfortable with it. Maybe I didn't bleed the system well enough, thought I did. I'm running 4 wheel disc and used it as a manual setup. I purchased this on moparts and I pretty sure it was from Ehrenberg. The adapter is the one that Andy of ARE engineering makes. If you're interested just shoot me a fair price, I'm not looking to get rich.  Pete

[brads70]

Did you have to make up brake lines or did the stock ones fit? Just curious?
My car still has the original brake lines and they are in mint condition ( car is from CA) so it would be great if I could use them?

[somedaysoon]

 I'm not sure if the originals worked I never tried. I replaced everything with stainless, I made my lines.  But if I recall the fittings were the same, but please don't hold me to that, I'm not positive.  Pete