This was posted some time ago, hope it helps.
Make sure you have everything before you start, if buying 2nd hand you can at least buy the flywheel, bell, box & shifter as one unit.
Make sure you get the E body gearbox, twin shifter pad with the mount on the rear pad. If you have a 904 auto now you will need the 727 slip joint and a different length tailshaft. I would go for a new flywheel & clutch assembly.
A good info on the different A833 gearboxes, six cyl & V8.......
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/4-speeds/ODA833fourspeed1.htm--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
with all the interest in 4 spd conversions now that most of our cars are toys not daily drivers it may be helpful to go over some of the details of ding a swap
the costs can vary widely from mild to wild
most depends on the availablilty of parts
for example a 4 spd alone can run from $100 in the wreckers to $2500 US for a completew new unit
& if you want to look at 5 or 6 spds the cost is even higher
this is the basic parts list needed to convert a car
4 spd conversion parts
transmission - Available new from Passon in all styles & rebuilt from Brewers
Pedals, these vary with different body styles [available from Brewers ]
firewall support bracket
pushrod [pedal to Z bar ] available from Brewers
Z bar [different widths for big & small block & different body style [brewers ]
Frame pivot bracket -B & E body cars, A bodys use a re-inforcing plate [Brewers & Tilleman]
pivot balls- [ Mopar Brewers & Passon]
adjuster link [Zbar to fork ][ Mopar & Brewers , wreckers ]
release fork [Mopar Brewers & Passon]
belhousing or blastshield [Ebay Lakewood, Passon, McLeod ,Brewers & Keisler ]
release brg [Mopar for the larger Hemi /18 spline brg or Local parts store for 23 spline ]
clutch assly [ Mopar , McLeod, Hays , Ram ]
Flywheel [requires differnt crank bolts than flex plate ] [McLeod , Mopar , 440 source 440 source is by far the cheapest with a steel SFI flywheel at $150 us ] there are a # of different weights , bolt patterns & balance offsets for different applications
flywheel bolts [Arp or Mopar 7/16" x 1"]
pilot bushing or brg [Local parts store for the bsuhing Pioner part #PB286, Mopar for the roller brg dakota application ]
differnt crossmember , on pre 69 B bodies [ Tilleman /Wreckers]
floor hump [Cross Canada Sheet metal ,Fenders, wreckers ]
Transmission slip yolk
shifter mechanism & rods [Passon, Brewers, Hurst ]
shift handle ,[ Mopar , Hurst ]
clips to hlod pushrod & adjuster to Z bar [ Mopar , wreckers ]
Bushings for the Z bar [Mopar, wreckers]
Shift boot & ring [Year One ,Classic Perf, PG on Ebay]
There are a number of different trannys all 833s though
the 833 is basically the case design ,
there are A/ F body trannys with the single shift mount pad & the longer B/E/truck 833 trannys usually with 2 shift mount pads [before 70 they had only one right above the speedo gear
there are at least 5 different gear sets available internally most have 2.45 first gear , there is a 4 spd with 3.09 first gear used in 75 & the OD version with the 3.09 first as well
all have 1-1 4 th ratio Except the Od version , the F body od has .73 4th & the truck has .71 4th
there are 2 case sizes 1 uses the 307 brg [small] & either the 4.32 or 4.80 front brg retainer the other uses the 308 [large ] front brg & 4.80 or 5.20 dia brg retainer
there are a number of internal differences in the tranny itself to numerous to mention here but really it has no affect on the swap
things to watch for - the belhousing - there are 7 different bels , small block & big block are different
small block has 3 differnt brg reatainer sizes 4.32 , 4.80 & 5.20[od]these should match the trans being used , the OD brg retainer can be cut down to 4.80 to fit the smaller bel , but not down to 4.32 to fit the smallest bel , the 4.32 bel could be machined out to 4.80 also the 5.20 " brg retainer can be mounted on a 4.80 trans but not a 4.32 , also a ring cab be machined to fit over the brg retainer to increase the diameter of the 4.32 trans to 4.80 or 5.20 to use the larger bel
Big block only has only 2 brg retainer sizes , 4.32 & 4.80 as they never used the OD behind a big block but by maching down the brg retainer to 4.8 the OD will bolt up But to add to the confusion there are 2 different flywheels used behind the big blocks , 143 tooth & 130 tooth & each used a different bel , the blastsheild will accomadate either though . The same spacer ring will work to adapt 4.32 trans to 4.80 belhousings
Flywheels - as mentioned above there are 2 sizes , 130 & 143 tooth + all the different balacing weights for different engines, 340 cast crank , 360 , 400 ,440 cast crank & 440+ 6 are all externally balanced & need special flywheels 273,318,340 steel crank 383 413, 426w,426 Hemi & 440 steel crank all use neutral balance flywheels but Hemi & Max Wedge use 8 bolt flywheels
clutches - the 143 tooth flywheel used 11& 12" clutches , the 130 uses 10.5 or 10.95 [often referred to as 11" which is very confusing ] I use Borg & Beck or Borg & Beck /Long style clutches & personally use mostly McLeod , I do not use or recommend any diaphragm style clutch
Pilot bushing - basically it is the same part used from the late 40s or earlier & has a 4 digit part # from Mopar & usually costs about $1, If the hole has not been drilled in the rear of the crank it can be solved 2 ways , I still prefer to drill the hole in the crank even if it is not centered but you can also trim 1/2 " off the front of the input shaft on the ttrans & use the Mopar roller brg used in Dakota trucks , it presses into the torque converter hub in the crank
the frame bracket or plate for the Z bar welds into place either on the frame rail or in the wheel well on A bodys
the Z bar is unique to each application , with the wider big blocks the Z bar is shorter then a small block bar & the arms are at different angles depending on the application , I have often had to modify a bar to get the best results
The Z bar has pivot balls & nylon bushings inside these can be bought as a kit from Mopar , they also have grease seals so the grease inside the Z bar stays clean , 1 ball threads into the belhousing , the other slots into the frame bracket
The adjuster link is avaialble through Mopar but is not cheap , try to get one at a wreckers , they do vary in length as well depeding on th eapplication however generally too llong is not a problem
the release fork has to match the belhousing , there are 2 different lengths -12" for A body P4529451 & 10.75 for B & E P4529452 A engine & P4529453 B engine, & there are 2 different pivot styles , the flat plate pivot early style & the ball pivot generally only used on OD applications , I have had to modifiy these in the past as well
the clutch release brg - there are only 2 types the 23 spline 1" id for around $35 & the 1 3/16 ID brg used on the 18 Spline Hemi trannys , this is only available from Mopar for over $100 P4529064
The Trans slip yolk May need to be swapped , the 833 B,E & truck applications use the same yolk as the 727 , some F body OD & possibly some A body trannys use the 904 slip yolk , most use the bigger 7272 as well though
the pedal pushrod is unique for each body style & changes in lenght & sometimes 1 end is offset , but they can be cut & modified to work
there are also nylon washers & special U shaped clips to keep both the adjuster & pushrod on the Z bar & pedal, I have found these at Mopar , do not take for granted that the pushrod will stay on the pedal or Z bar
the pedals will bolt in , you need to remove the factory Wide brake pedal & slide in the new brake & clutch pedals , B & E bodys have a special bracket with studs that go through the firewall into the clutch support on the left side of the pedal , again the pedals need to be correct for the application , B& E will swap in most applications A is unique
in pre 70 B bodys the 4 spd trans had the mount closer to the front of the tranny & will require a different crossmember when swappiong from a auto to an early B trans , if the later B trans or OD is used the auto trans will work fine
The SHfiter mechanism itself is still available for B bodys from Hurst , but it is not the correct one for the long pistol grip , either A, B or E bodys can use the Hurst super Comp + shifter , I did see a vendor in Vegas that had correct shifter mechanisms , I think he went by Mr 4 Spd & he had the pistol grips too + with real wood grips , I can`t seem tyo find his # right now though
you will need a set of correct shift rods & levers these are different for every application B body bench, console & B&E rear console & A body are all different lengths & bends & by using shorter levers on the side of the trans the shifter throw can be reduced sometimes dramatically
the shifter ,boot & ring , what can I say get what you like , the handle is different in all appplications , there are basically 4 - Body forward position non console , B body forward position with console , B body forward position bench seat , this application works great in A bodys as well if you want a pistol grip !! & the B & E body rear position short pistol , the boot will vary if you use a round stick over the retangular pistol grip
