Steering box question

[shadango]

So, I am contemplating my next major project on the car.....replacing the front drum brakes with a disk setup and while I am at it replacing the balljoints, etc.

Now, my power steering pump is leaking right now.  I had tried some Lucas oil stop leak but no luck....so that has to be done too...

Am I better off doing the steering pump seals while I have the front end apart or should I look at that as a seperate job?

[HP2]

Well, if you have the steering box out then there will be no need to drain the pump for a rebuild a second time. But you don't necessarily need to drop the steering for suspension rebuild. Could go ether way depending on your motivation.

[shadango]

I realized that I goofed....its not my pump that is leaking, but the seal(s) on the steering box itself. Sorry.

I remember that removing the roll pin (so the steering column can come out so the whole unit can be dropped) isnt a whole lot of fun...but I have done it.....

What else is involved in dropping the steering box? Pretty much just bolt in at that point, right?

I have never rebuilt/resealed a steering box before....I just thought that if while I had the rest of the front end apart it makes sense to do that at the same time I would.....

[Katfish]

You can put in the steering box from the top, that's the way I did mine.  Having said that, if you're rebuilding the frt end might as well add this to the list.  You'll need to R&R the pitman arm, might as well do this while you're replacing the other components.

[shadango]

Yeah, I have a new Moog pitman arm on the list.

I guess I "have" to at least loosen/drop the steering column to pull the box out, right?

[Chryco Psycho]

Yes you need to pull the steering column , the steering box will drop out the bottom , header make it much harder though I would upgrade to a Firm feel or Steer & gear performance box though 

[shadango]

I was out puttering in the garage and realized that yes, the headers are gonna make it a pain to pull the box.

My leak is, i believe, from the shaft going into the the unit..where the steering shaft connects. At least thats where I think it leaks from.

I may try and pursue replacing the seals while it stays on the car.....if I do end up pulling it, I would go with the firm feel unit......but that means more $$$ thatn is in the budget right now.

[shadango]

Alright so I started thinking (oh oh).....and went to Firm Feel's site.

There is a message there that says

"NOTE : If you own a '62-'72 "B" body or '70-'72 "E" body you can save some money on your pitman arm by using a '73 & later power steering box. In 1973 all A&B&E body cars went to the "large sector" box,( The sector shaft attaches to the pitman arm). The late pitman arm is still readily available at about half the cost! You'll save roughly $75.00 over the cost of the small sector pitman, and there is no problem with installation, clearance or geometry using this large sector set-up on the cars mentioned above."

I did NOT know this.............

So I guess I can send them my 72 and they will send me a 73?

Ok, well that changes things.....i couldnt figure out why Rock doesn't show a pitman arm for the 72.....73 they do and it is like $58...I assumed they were the same. Then I went to Autozone and viola....the 73 is $50 or so and the 72 is $140!!!

Well, so now a decision......hold off on the pitman arm altogether for now and do the rest of the front end parts and try and reseal the current box I have....or.....spend $330 and shipping for a firmfeel box so I can save the $100 and replace the pitman arm as well as saving about $45 for the rebuild kit for the current pump.....Basically, if I spend an additional $150 I can get into the firmfeel 73 box.

Or, let the dang steering box continue to leak with the current pitman arm for another season. Which I hate to do.

Grrrrrrrrrr..............

Why is the 72 pitamn arm so much more $$$?

I guess the best choice all around would be to splurge on the FF box, already rebuilt for me anda new (cheaper) pitman arm.

Chryco, thanks for getting me thinking....this is YOUR fault!!! LOL  (Just kiddin!)

Will the 73 box use the 72 pump and hoses I have??

And just how hard is pulling/replacing the box with headers? (I have Dougs).....

[Changin Gears]

If your really on a tight budget, like me, you should look at the Raybestos brand at Rock Auto.  I've done 3 front ends with them, they are excellent, cheap and made in  the USA ( $7 upper ball joints, $20 pitman arm, etc).  You can combine this with this 5% dicount code, 1312878642440 , to save more (expires tommorrw but you can search for more).

[RB2929]

P-S-T Suspension Pitaman Arm:
73/74 = $83
67/72 = $109
A little better pricing (?)

[dodj]

Steer and Gear is a lot closer to you Shadango
www.steerandgear.com/
Shipping would be less I figure.

[Katfish]

I'd measure what you have.  My old 72 Challenger had the larger diameter shaft.  Maybe some of the later built cars got the newer/larger model.

[shadango]

Would like to save money, but I have always been under the impression that Moog would be the best bet if going with "stock" type stuff as far as it holding up, being "right", etc...

I was also looking at PST and Just Suspension..both have poly kits that seem to be "cheaper" overall....and are poly....

 

I do want to save cash where I can....but I also want to do this job right the first time...thoguh if I went with the Raybestos stuff it would save a lot of money towards the firm feel box.....

Katfish, good point, and I may measure it....that said, my box still needs at least resealed....it is such a twitchy box when driving I would love to go with a firmer unit.....

[the_engineers]

I'd like to har more about your plans for the disk brake swap.  Do you have another thread going for that?

[shadango]

I'd like to har more about your plans for the disk brake swap.  Do you have another thread going for that?

Oh yeah, I have another thread on that,......LOL....its older though....

http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=61141.0

This is the main one.