Author Topic: Broken engine mount ear  (Read 2869 times)

Offline AMXguy

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Broken engine mount ear
« on: January 08, 2010 - 05:18:22 PM »
I found a dirt cheap virgin '70 440 shortblock for sale but it has a broken engine mount ear. I'm a good welder is there any reason I couldn't weld the bottom of the hole thats broken out back in and drill it out? it's just the common bottom mount half a hole gone situation. I've never tried to weld on a block before but you should be able to do it with stainless?

 Or is it a big deal?
1970 R/T SE Challenger
 1970 Superbee
 1969 S code Mach 1
 1967  GTO




Offline dutch

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Re: Broken engine mount ear
« Reply #1 on: January 08, 2010 - 05:37:50 PM »
I wouldn`t use stainless. Get some good cast iron sticks.  heat up both the sticks and the area you want to weld.  hammer your welds.
*** Bart ***

Offline Kelly B.A.

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Re: Broken engine mount ear
« Reply #2 on: January 08, 2010 - 05:54:41 PM »
  :iagree:

They make a real good(but pricey)cast iron rod with a high nickle content.I think they may even make a "job pack" with just a few sticks.
Preheat very important(use heat sticks or temp gun),and a SLOW cool.
An old pal of mine even used his oven to help slow the cool,I am not saying lug an engine in to your kitchen.Use a welding blanket if you can.
I have in a pinch,used 7018 to weld exhaust manifold on an excavator and had success,preheat and a slow cool,but I would get the 440,and get the proper rod.
"If it was easy,then women and children would be doing it"

Offline Moparal

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Re: Broken engine mount ear
« Reply #3 on: January 08, 2010 - 06:21:53 PM »
Is it on the drivers side or passenger side?  Passenger side, dont worry about it. And the drivers side, since it is the bottom hole and half of it is there, use a washer and it will still work, or even just run a tq chain to the k member and go drivin. Unless you really want to weld it. It doesnt seem neccessary. I have seen this same thing happen before with zero issues

Offline 72rtchallenger

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Re: Broken engine mount ear
« Reply #4 on: January 08, 2010 - 07:01:56 PM »
  :iagree:

They make a real good(but pricey)cast iron rod with a high nickle content.I think they may even make a "job pack" with just a few sticks.
Preheat very important(use heat sticks or temp gun),and a SLOW cool.
An old pal of mine even used his oven to help slow the cool,I am not saying lug an engine in to your kitchen.Use a welding blanket if you can.
I have in a pinch,used 7018 to weld exhaust manifold on an excavator and had success,preheat and a slow cool,but I would get the 440,and get the proper rod.

The 7018 will work but I would get the proper rod if your going to do it,,but I agree with moparal that its not absolutely necessary,,my 340 has  a broken ear and have a washer and used loctite and has no issues
72rtchallenger
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Offline brads70

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Re: Broken engine mount ear
« Reply #5 on: January 09, 2010 - 07:22:39 PM »
I have seen ( to allow it to cool slowly so it doesn't crack) castings buried in sand after welded with nickel rod to slow the cooling, Mind you not very practical for a block!
Brad
1970 Challenger 451stroker/4L60 auto OD
Barrie,Ontario,Canada
Proud to own one of the best cars ever made!!!!!

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Offline dutch

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Re: Broken engine mount ear
« Reply #6 on: January 10, 2010 - 03:40:29 AM »
you can heat up some pieces of steel, wrap them in ceramic blanket and lay the package against the welded area.  I`ve welded a bunch of exhaust manifolds in the past and always cooled them down in a preheated furnace wrapped in a blanket,  cooling down in 24-36 hrs. In this case I wouldnt worry too much about the coolingprocess since the block itself will withdraw all heat fast anyways.
*** Bart ***