Safest place to support front end and other newbie suspension questions

[shadango]

Is it safe to support the front end of the car using the front frame rails?

Planning on starting to tear into the front end rebuild today and the first thing is supporting the front end so as to not end up being a pancake.  LOL

I was going to jack using the center of the k-member as I usually do....

Replacing my drum brakes so while I am at it I am going to replace as much of the front end stuff as I can, using the list for Rock Auto that Bullitt had posted here
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=51381.0
and then a few extra.

Here is my list, using the part numbers from Bullits list, all Moog,  and a few questions I hope someone can help with:

- torsion bar boots (cant find these on Rockauto..so I guess I will get them elsewhere)
- upper balljoints (is the special tool critical to removal?)
- lower balljoints
- tie rod ends inner and outter (using my current adjusting sleeves..should be ok?)
- Idler and pitman arms listed on that list
- upper and lower control arm bushings
-strut rod bushings (they list an "improved design" for $45 versus the standard ones at $15...whats the difference?
- cam bolt kit --(good to replace this during a rebuild? Or should the ones I have be ok?)
- upper bumpers (shaped like beehives, part #k2793)
- for the lower bumpers, I had already purchased the energy suspension red ones..shaped like triangles....ok to use?
- spindles (as part of the brake conversion)

ANy parts I am missing? Suggestions? ANswers to my questions above?

Before I checkout at Rock, wanna be sure I am on the right track.

Thanks guys!

[Chryco Psycho]

the front frame rails will support the car just fine
you do need the socket to change the upper ball joints
 I would order the C body tierod ends & buy the larger sleeves , the tie rod ends are about the same price & the larger sleeves are cheap enough
 I used Poly strut rod bushings , not sure on the improved design rubber ones
see what condition the cam bolts are in , if they are bad replace them , if they are ok reuse them , any doubt just get new ones , I alway coat them with anti sieze , once they rust into place they are a nightmare to remove

[shadango]

So if I were to order the c body stuff, what year/car do I look for?

I am swapping in spindles from a 73 a body for the disks.....I want to make sure they fit....

[Chryco Psycho]

I have used 70 C body parts
I think the sleeve # is K440 from Moog

[shadango]

Ooops....I meant spindles are from a 75 A body (Dart)......

So basically they are just beefier??

Looked up the #s for a 70 Polara (thats a C right?)

tie rod ends Inner MOOG Part # ES355RL
tie rod ends outter MOOG Part # ES352R

Cant seem to find the adjusting sleeve # yet....K440 comes up as being a part for a stabilizer bar.

Rock auto's site kind of sucks...it doesnt list a number of parts, like the adjusting sleeve for this car, but I know they carry them....if you search under Moog, they list a slew of them but not car-specific.

[Chryco Psycho]

couldbe  KS440 or something

[shadango]

Ifound an ES440S...but the 70 Polara isnt on the application list...here is what they show for that part #

CHRYSLER   FIFTH AVENUE   (1983 - 1989)
CHRYSLER   IMPERIAL   (1981 - 1983)
CHRYSLER   IMPERIAL LEBARON   (1974 - 1975)
CHRYSLER   LEBARON   (1977 - 1981)
CHRYSLER   LEBARON MEDALLION   (1977 - 1981)
CHRYSLER   LEBARON S   1978
CHRYSLER   LEBARON SALON   (1979 - 1981)
CHRYSLER   LEBARON SPECIAL   1981
CHRYSLER   LEBARON TOWN & COUNTRY   1981
CHRYSLER   NEW YORKER   (1974 - 1982)
CHRYSLER   NEW YORKER BROUGHAM   (1974 - 1978)
CHRYSLER   NEWPORT   (1974 - 1978)
CHRYSLER   NEWPORT CUSTOM   (1974 - 1976)
DODGE   ASPEN   (1976 - 1980)
DODGE   ASPEN CUSTOM   (1976 - 1977)
DODGE   ASPEN SPECIAL EDITION   (1976 - 1977)
DODGE   DIPLOMAT   (1977 - 1981)
DODGE   DIPLOMAT MEDALLION   (1977 - 1983)
DODGE   DIPLOMAT S   1978
DODGE   DIPLOMAT SALON   (1979 - 1989)
DODGE   DIPLOMAT SE   (1984 - 1989)
DODGE   DIPLOMAT SPORT   1981
DODGE   MIRADA   (1980 - 1983)
DODGE   MONACO   (1974 - 1976)
DODGE   MONACO BROUGHAM   1974
DODGE   MONACO CUSTOM   1974
DODGE   ROYAL MONACO   (1975 - 1977)
DODGE   ROYAL MONACO BROUGHAM   (1975 - 1977)
PLYMOUTH   FURY CUSTOM SUBURBAN   1974
PLYMOUTH   FURY POLICE   1974
PLYMOUTH   FURY SPORT SUBURBAN   1974
PLYMOUTH   FURY SUBURBAN   1974
PLYMOUTH   GRAN FURY   (1975 - 1989)
PLYMOUTH   GRAN FURY BROUGHAM   (1975 - 1977)
PLYMOUTH   GRAN FURY CUSTOM   (1975 - 1976)
PLYMOUTH   GRAN FURY CUSTOM SUBURBAN   (1975 - 1976)
PLYMOUTH   GRAN FURY SPORT SUBURBAN   (1975 - 1977)
PLYMOUTH   GRAN FURY SUBURBAN   (1975 - 1977)
PLYMOUTH   VOLARE   (1976 - 1980)
PLYMOUTH   VOLARE CUSTOM   (1976 - 1977)
PLYMOUTH   VOLARE PREMIER   (1976 - 1977)

Please refer to catalog for application details.

[shadango]

Well, spent the afternoon removing most of the old suspension and drum stuff.

The hardest part was the lower balljoints....took a BFH and a lot of cursing...LOL

I got the passenger side off without removing the backing plate and such but ended up removing on the driver side and it did speed things up.

Still have to pull the t-bars (have the clips out) , LCAs, upper balljoint (ordered the tool) and the UCAs. 

I also removed the pin and nuts on the struts....can I assume they will slide out when I remove the t-bars and then the LCA?

Chryco, I did a search and there were tons of hits where you said that all you have to do is loosen the LCA pivot nut and hammer on that and force the LCA and t-bar back...gonna try to do it that way and save the $$$ on the tool.

Still have to order the replacement parts....

I am not sure if I am going Moog or if I should go with PST's poly kit.....what do you think?

[dodj]

Newbie Suspension Questions?
One thousand four hundred and fifty posts and you call yourself a newbie?

[shadango]

...compared to Chryco at over 21,000 posts?   What else would I be?   

[Chryco Psycho]

I just answer a few newbie questions from time to time the thread should be 11/16 in the sleeve & match the Tie rod ends obviously , if it is not then it is the wrong sleeve , I knew the correct sleeve had a 440 part# though , not sure why I would remember that LOL

[shadango]

Thanks....the length of the sleeve has to be correct too (I assume)...I guess I can measure mine to get that.....not sure if they will list that spec or not..will look....

Thanks Chryco.

[shadango]

Here's a goofy newbie question:

Assuming a complete car, can the torsion bars be removed without seperating the balljoints and such?

I am hoping to reuse my current bars with my rebuild and then at some point later swap in better bars.....

OR am I asking for troubles?

[Chryco Psycho]

yes the bars can be removed but the easy way to get them out is to undo the caster strut & the lower control arm pivot & pry the lower control arm back pushing the T bar out , there is a clamp available to grab the bars with out damage that you can hit with a hammer to force the bar out as well . you do not want to clamp onto a T bar with vice grips etc to hit the bars out , any surface disturbance can cause the spring to fail & break in two

[the_engineers]

Just Suspensions sells a front end kit that includes the T-Bar puller, BJ Socket, etc.  May be worthwhile for you.