Removing upper control arm bushings

[shadango]

Anyone have tips on removing the upper control arm bushings?

I have a new press and want to be sure I dont ruin the control arms in my excitement.  LOL

Should be simple enough but you know how that goes...LOL

Pictures would be great if you have any of the procedure....

Thanks !

[Supercuda]

Using a shop press on these bushings is straight forward, but requires some care. Most important is to find a good receiver for the bushing, as it is pressed out. A large, deep socket works well, as does a length of the right diameter pipe. Ensure that it is capable of accepting the whole length of the bushing, and that you set it square in the press. The piece used to actually push the bushing is also imprtant, as it needs to push out the bushing without getting stuck in the arm. I have also used an air hammer to remove them, but a press is always best for installation. Liberal application of lubricant (WD-40, silicone lube, etc.) helps installation greatly. Don't forget any reinforcement sleeves that may be wrapped around the bushing.

[IMNCARN82]

somewhere i saw a thread where they welded washers on to pry. 

[shadango]

I think you may be thinking of the LCA inner sleeve as far as welding?  (I did that...one failed miserably and one worked great)

For the UCAs, I have stockers with the metal sleeves....the whole thing presses thru then?

[dodj]

I pressed mine out into a piece of pipe about 3" long, diameter just big enough to receive the bushing and support the uca. My bushings separated and had to pry the outer steel shell of the bushing out manually. Bit of a pita. Split the shell and pull out with needle nose pliers.

[shadango]

    So I just got back in from working on these....the first one was a real PITA.....finally figured out I could use a deepwell socket to press the center sleeve out then pop the rubber bushing out.

I felt like I accomplished something.

Then I read this and realize there is an outer shell that has to come out too.   

The shell has the notches in the rim of it, doesnt it?

Mine must REALLY be in there cause they never budged.

O h well.  Guess I'll work on those shells tomorrow.

How did you split the shells?  Hope they arent as much of hassle as the two LCA outer shells were...those were a PITA.

Now the previous post makes sense....weld washers onto them and press them out...

*****update
Went out to look at the sleeves and .....I think something is wrong.

Drivers side:  one side is different than the other, sleeve wise....




Passenger side: both sides are the same as far as the sleeves...




Any chance this is normal? 

I have two different styel a-arms I guess?   They look the same otherwise.....

What am I seeing here??

[dodj]

 It's been about 10 years since I did mine but I don't remember one being different like that. Any evidence of a repair ?

[farmboy70]

There will will be a reinforcment sleeve on one bushing on each control arm. Remove it and then I like to bead blast the bushing area first, before removing the bushing. This will make it much easier to remove.  Then you can press the entire sleeve out.
I am doing this tomorrow if you would like some pictures I can post them up.
Dave

[shadango]

Yeah! Pics would be great. Thanks!

No evidence of repairs or anything.....just look different.  (Seems like I always get the oddballs) 

[farmboy70]

Here are the pictures.Unfortunately we already had them disassembled,but they may help as a reference to get yours out.
Dave

[shadango]

Thanks farmboy!

So is that a collar of some sort laying next to the sleeve and arm?  Is it supposed to come off?

I think maybe what is going on in mine is that one is missing that collar...

Do both of your arms look the same as far as those bushing holes?

Look at my picture #2....it doesnt have the fatter part right under the "flange" of the sleeve....

What is the trick to pressing the sleeves out?  Did you have to heat the arm at all?

[farmboy70]

There will be one collar on one bushing on each control arm, most times if they have been replaced the collar didn't get put back on.
I usually heat the collar to get it off, but be careful the heat will burn the rubber in the bushing and pop. Don't get burned!
The holes are the same.
I try not to ever heat the arm itself just the collar.
If the arm has been sand blasted you can hit it with a large hammer and they usually pop right out.
You can also press them out with the right tools.
After you install the new ones I use a long 3/8 extension to check to be sure the control arm is not bent. Run the extension thru the holes in the bushing, if it go's thru it's ready, if not bend the mounting points until it does.
DAVE

[farmboy70]

Picture 2 shows the collar that needs to be removed before tackling the bushing itself.
 The round collar in my last picture is the  collar removed.
Dave

[purple1]

Not all upper control arms have the extra collar. This has been a topic here before. The extra collars were added at the factory when the bushing were pressed in. If they did not press in tight enough the collars were added. You may or may not need to reinstall them.

I went ahead and got the tools for this job, they made the task easy.

Dave

[shadango]

Ok, that makes sense then...looks like I got the ONE that didnt need the collar.

So how do you know if the fit is "tight enough" when you press in the new bushing on the holes without the collar?  I cant figure out how a collar in that location would affect the tightness???