Installing an aftermarket voltmeter

[CHL2T]

I bought an aftermarket voltmeter to put in the Challenger to replact the fried ammeter, and have a few questions, of course

Right now I have the existing ammeter connections hooked together and taped up. The new gauge tells me to hook it into switched power and ground, I know that the OEM connections are not switched but constant.

Should I connect the new gauge according to the manufactures instructions?

Am I going to have trouble with just keeping the OEM connections taped up?

Can I hook the gauge up OEM syle?

Should I ask someone on this board if they have an extra, good ammeter?

Thanks, I appreciate all the help!

[dodj]

Switched power and ground is how you need to connect the voltmeter. The ammeter connections will do fine connected together with a small nut and bolt and tape.

Can I hook the gauge up OEM syle?

Not sure exactly what you mean. You can't hook the voltmeter up with the ammeter wires if that is the question. If you did go from the ammeter wires to ground with the voltmeter, it would always be 'on' causing a constant drain on the battery.

[CHL2T]

Thanks for the reply,
After giving the old ammeter a good looking over and not wanting to hack up my gauge frame to install the new gauge I've decided to try and "fix" the original ammeter. I am soaking the rusted terminals in metal ready to remove the rust and then I plan on soldering the loose stud connections an mayhap I will be in luck.

I was thinking about putting the new gauge into the open slot but upon further consideration I'd rather put a mini tach there.

[farmboy70]

Are you working on a standard or Ralley gauge set/
If you need one for a standard I have two, one of each style.
You can have it for price of shipping.
Dave

[CHL2T]

Are you working on a standard or Ralley gauge set/
If you need one for a standard I have two, one of each style.
You can have it for price of shipping.
Dave

I will surely keep you in mind if my attempt a "fixing" my gauge is unsuccessful, and thanks for the offer. Which of the two have the best looking speedo? Mine is a little rough around the edges and could use a replacement.

After look in at the two clusters in the pics, I see that the only matchup with mine is the speedo. Strange, I say, how many styles of standard gauges are there?

Here's a pic of mine for further comparrison

[farmboy70]

The one that says "gasoline" has a 3149 date code so my guess is that is 1970 only,the other would be 71-74.
The gauge cluster with"fuel" has a 2253 for 1973-74 it is hard to read
Dave

[farmboy70]

Here is a couple of pictures, the odmeter is yellowed
Dave

[CHL2T]

Thanks again for the offer 
After re-installing the ammeter (the "fix" was a success) and putting the dash together for the umpteenth time, I think I will pass on getting a speedo from you, I can live with a ratty speedo, after all it is the Ratty R/T
If I take it apart again it will be because the stars moon, planets and sun have all aligned and I found a complete rallye dash, light bar, switches and heater control for a reasonable price. I may just try the lottery instead, I might have more luck

Next , after replacing the turn signal cam, it seems that I somehow switched the wires around when re-connecting, and now the left/ right is backwards  so, apart comes the steering wheel again

And finally, when I turn the key on, the hazard lights start flashing and the switch has no effect  Seriously, at this point, All I can do is laugh and say, I LOVE MY CAR!!

[farmboy70]

Np problem, glad it worked out on the alt gauge.
Sometimes I can't even give parts away.
Dave

[CHL2T]

After switching the wires around on the signal switch, I now have proper operation of the hazard lights but no signals.

After swapping the flashers around I determined that they are both good. I have tested the circuit by checking for power at the signal with flasher in place, when I remove the flasher the circuit is broken, indicating that there is not a problem there. And not to mention, the signals worked before, just had a broken tang

At this point I'd have to say it is the new switch, but I can't hardly see how such a simple device could be bad right outta the package.

Also, the signal base has a strange extra mini harness with an axe head shaped plug containing three wires. One of which, is purple, I can't remember the other two colors at the moment. The plug has nowhere to plug into and, to further deepen the mystery the "harness" does not appear in ANY wiring diagrams from A-E body! The purple wire connected to a spring contact which none of the replacement switces have 
And knowing that this is NOT an E-body column, I am kinda shooting in the dark here.

 

[Aussie Challenger]

There are a few threads on the Amp guage, make sure that posts going through the clamp are properly insulated and the wires are tight.
These old Amp guages carry all the current for the complete circuit of the car (except starter) and as a result they can get quite hot. Some recommend that you bridge across the 2 terminals to bypass Amp guage therefore insuring that they don't overheat in the future.
There is a kit to turn the Amp guage into a Volt meter.