Tappet Noise I think

[Strawdawg]

I saw that you pulled the pan off.  Were the bearings okay?  I am concerned with the same things that Moper mentioned

[dlrogers]

Yep, I guess you can take it as a given, that the wiped lobe wouldn't have been beneficial to the rest of the engine. I will make sure I have a good look at those bits and pieces etc before going too much further.

[dlrogers]

As far as I can tell the bearings are OK - doesn't seem to be any play when I rock the crank. Here's a couple of questions if someone can help please... should I pre lube lifters, i.e. fill them with oil? Also, should I use high tensile bolts on the cam sprocket (no bolts were supplied) and locktite them in place?

[moper]

The way to inspect bearings for contamination is to pull the caps and look at them. Bearings are designed to imbed harder particals so they can't damage things further. But with so much meatl in it, they get full and the metal becomes an abrasive. Not to mention any splash-oiled surfaces like the piston skirts and rings.

[lemming303]

    

[dlrogers]

The way to inspect bearings for contamination is to pull the caps and look at them.

Thanks Moper, I'll pull the caps and take a look.

[punisher72]

  Howd you go?

[dlrogers]

I've had a good look through the system and couldn't really find much in the way of metal etc where it shouldn't be - I'm certainly no expert however. Anyway, I'm going to carry on. I've used a dial gauge to set the cam timing - I needed .061 lift on #1 inlet at TDC and .074 on the exhaust. After a couple of attempts I got it exactly which makes me feel pretty good. I got those figures when we ran the cam on the analyser. It will be 'steady as she goes' putting everything back together now - still need those couple of questions answered if anyone can help...CP?

[Chryco Psycho]

it cannot hurt to soak the lifters in oil although I have never done that , I have always been more worried with the contact face .
 I would use a grade 8 - 3/8" bolt in the cam & definatly locktite them in

[dlrogers]

Great - thanks for that. I put the proper lube on the cam lobes and lifter surfaces and have dribbled a bit of oil onto the lifter tops because they were brand new and dry.

[Chryco Psycho]

I do coat the end of the pushrods with the red brg guard lube

[dlrogers]

Here's a couple of pics of the old and new valley pan - should there be an opening for the centre inlet port? It seems strange to have it blanked out but it's the same as the one I pulled out 
The other pic is the old cam and the worn lifter next to the wiped lobe.

[Chryco Psycho]

these cars never get driven in cold weather anymore so why heat the intake up , cold air makes more power & prevents the fuel boiling in the carb , I always use the intake pan with the blocked crossover port

[dlrogers]

I've found a couple of things that I think are unusual that I need some comment on please - firstly, some of the springs I am taking out have shims under them and secondly, some of the valves have a different number of grooves for the locks. I find I am having to put the old locks back in. This spring change over is taking forever - I only seem to get a coule of hours a week to work on the car lately. I am not putting the shims back in as there was no mention of doing that in the instructions with the valve train set.

[Chryco Psycho]

if the valve seat is cut down into the head the spring height will change so you need shims to maintain the spring height ,tyoically the intake needs shims & the exhaust has new seats put in made of harder material so they do not need shims .
 the stock valves are 2 & 4 groove & you can get 10* lock with stock grooves if needed