440ci Magnum Build

[Carlwalski]

Thanks Neil, would you be able to do that for me? Not idle, that was a but too low. In the 1,500rpm-6,000rpm range if possible. I prefer my cars not to have too much rpm or ring out too much, I enjoy power/torque lower. I would be happy to pay for a custom grind if needs be to get the desired results. I only want to do this once.

What is your opinion on an intake (and carb to suit)? I was thinking 850-900cfm max (twice the ci). I have the standard R/T bulge hood. I want to run the intake below which is 3" high, 14" diameter. MEK has one and stated that with a 1-1/4" drop base to work with his intake. My goals are low torque range, less high rpm and responsive, these are mu goals.

What kind of power (ballpark) could I see with a good street cam, 0.30 set up, good intake, 900cfm carb, freeflow style air cleaner set up? Around a 40-50hp flywheel increase? Similar torque?



Thanks mate!

[Chryco Psycho]

are you going with a 512 or just reworking your existing 440 ?
 the best intake that I use consistantly isthe 300-14 Holley Street Dom , it is only about 3/4" taller than the stock intake , the Proform carbs are the best I have found & the cheapest pricing is through Mancini Racing for the Proforms
the 512 used the Street Dom intake & a Proform 950 to make the power I told you about through ported iron 915 heads , I will go grab my Lunati catalog

[73EStroker]

Carl - are you going solid lifter or hydraulic? The MP purple solid cams have real ticky tappets as they run real loose clearances like 0.024 or higher. My Lunati solid runs 0.014 clearance and idles fairly quiet. Don't know or care about idle vacuum as I have hydraboost brakes.

[Chryco Psycho]

Are you planning to use headers or manifolds ??

[Carlwalski]

are you going with a 512 or just reworking your existing 440 ?
 the best intake that I use consistantly isthe 300-14 Holley Street Dom , it is only about 3/4" taller than the stock intake , the Proform carbs are the best I have found & the cheapest pricing is through Mancini Racing for the Proforms
the 512 used the Street Dom intake & a Proform 950 to make the power I told you about through ported iron 915 heads , I will go grab my Lunati catalog

Sorry CP, I chop and change when doing home work but now I am dead set, 100% on reworking the 440. It's such a fresh build and with the cam being the main culprit, it's the best way to attack it, by removing this problem and replacing it with something more gruntier.

Awesome, that is the intake I have in my "build" list. I will look at the proforms.

Carl - are you going solid lifter or hydraulic? The MP purple solid cams have real ticky tappets as they run real loose clearances like 0.024 or higher. My Lunati solid runs 0.014 clearance and idles fairly quiet. Don't know or care about idle vacuum as I have hydraboost brakes.

Hey bud, I am not sure and will leave it up to Neil to make the final call on solid or hydraulic. Thanks for the info, I'll see what CP finds in his catalog and go from there.


For reference, I have A/C, powersteering and power brakes (discs all round) and 1-7/8" tti headers.



Thanks!

[Chryco Psycho]

OK I would use a TF 62 intake , the spec is 270 Advertized duration 243@ .050, .548 lift with .016 lash using a 1.5 rocker or .566 lift using 1.6 rocker
&  TF61 exhuast lobe , the spec is 274 duration , 247 @ .050 , .559 lift with 1.5 & .578 with 1.6
 I would use a 110* CL with headers or a 112* cl with manifolds , this will make power from around 1800 -5800 & will take advantage of the extra lift as long as the heads are ported properly & do not stall at 520 lift

[Chryco Psycho]

there is no extra charge to custom grind the cam so all the cams I order from Lunati are custom grinds
my opinion is solid lifte ris the only way to go , the compromises using hyd are not worth it , the rockers are not accurate for the 1.5 ratio & the lifters can pump up or collapse , I have been using solids in virtually every build for years since the lifter problems started a few years ago when they had lifter shortages
 the cam in my 512 is a a Lunati solid TF60 /TF57 grind with .570/.582 lift 251/259 durtaion @ .050 with 112 CL using iron manifolds & 1.6 rockers netting .592 /.604 lift  using 1.6 rockers & subtracting the .016 lash.
 Keep in mind the .528 Mopar cam uses 28/32 lash so your net valve lift is under .500 

[Carlwalski]

Thanks Neil, in regards to head port work, I don't really want to do that now. I was thinking/thought it would be best to just swap the cam out and get some lifters to suit and basically call it a day there, I'm hoping and pretty sure (tho I'm no pro) that this will definitely give the car/engine the performance it's been missing with the low spec cam in there now.

In terms of carbs, this looks pretty much on the money for my engine and the Street Dom 300-14, do you agree?


Proform Street Series Carb - Part # 67214
850 CFM, MECHANICAL SECONDARY
(WITH ELECTRIC CHOKE)
PFM67214

$460 @ Manicini

[Chryco Psycho]

you could look at the 60303 Hyd VooDoo grind , it is about the best hyd  cam availabe from Lunati
 the carb looks right , I have been using the race series with no choke though & would seriously look at pulling the heads & proting them , there can be huge power in working the heads .
 is the 440 a # matching engine ? do you have access to another block ?
the 512 " is a real eye opener

[Carlwalski]

you could look at the 60303 Hyd VooDoo grind , it is about the best hyd  cam availabe from Lunati
 the carb looks right , I have been using the race series with no choke though & would seriously look at pulling the heads & proting them , there can be huge power in working the heads .
 is the 440 a # matching engine ? do you have access to another block ?
the 512 " is a real eye opener

I can see the benefits of going with a secondary block and storing the #'s engine but, I'd really love to keep my car #'s matching. I have the 540 to enjoy one day so that will be my "all out" car. To sum it up, I'd just love to have the 440 perform how I know it's capable of. I bet the 512 is a real kick ass engine, if you're happy with them then that speaks volumes about what they are capable of.

That cam looks good rpm wise but do you think it's not much of an increase lift wise from 214 now to only 226? I will keep the engine in place and do the cam so I guess removing the heads isn't going to hinder anything, no need to remove the engine to do it. So if I do port the heads, nothing else has to be done? I can leave the unknown 0.30 pistons and all the bottom end and just port the heads? What about buying aftermarket heads? What kid of port #s would I be looking at? Thanks CP!!


Something like this? http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/cylheads/chrysler/bb_perf_rpm.shtml

[Chryco Psycho]

I am not a fan of the Eddy RPM heads , my experience with them was after removing my ported heads & porting the Eddy heads we made a 3 RwHP gain over the iron heads , the 440 Source heads would seem to be a better vealue for a similar gain  .
 picking up over 10* in duration & al lot more lift will definatly make a noticable power increase without affecting drivability , duration is what will kill off the vacuum & move the powerband higher not the lift .
At least by removing the heads you can look at the piston dome & measure how far below deck they are , determine the exact compression ratio & see if youhave reliefs for added valve clearance 
The reason I use the carbs with no choke is most of these cars are toys & are never driven in cold weather , the choke just wastes fuel .

[Carlwalski]

Aha, that makes sense with the choke, I will try to use my car when ever so it's definitely needed. I prefer driving in winter down here (no snow in my area for hundreds of miles) so an electric choke is the way for my car. My engine's a 69/70 HP block so my heads will be 906 heads, correct? With their intake at 2.08 and exhaust port at 1.74, what would I have to get them flowed out to? I don't want to port the OEM heads too thin. I don't quite follow the valve relief clearance sorry bud lol. Can I just port the heads to what even specs people do them to, chuck in the new cam (lifters to suit the cam) and be done or? Last but not least how much does it cost to port heads?

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Carl,
 
  I'm not much help here, but late 2008 I put a Profrom 850 on my car with an electric choke. I just found the manual chokes to be a pain from past experience. There has to be a bend in the cable, so it always sticks. With the electric choke, it's as simple as unloosening a couple of screw and turning the pod to increase, or decrease the amount of time it takes for the choke to open up. In my case, even in driving in cold weather, the choke is on the minimum of time. Rotate the pod all the way to the right for that. This Proform will be a big step in waking up your engine...Let me tell you.   

[MEK-Dangerfield]

...Or not.   

[Chryco Psycho]

Well I flowed a few sets of my heads but I am more concerned with velocity & swirl for street engines than massive flow #, i do not open the heads up much but I remove restictions to flow , narrow valve guides raise the roof of the ports & leave the floors alone  , I widen by the pushrod of course . I would have to dig up a flow sheet but I THINK I hit 270 on the intake side & 230 exhaust but I could be off , I do install the larger 1.81 exhaust valves as it increases the short side turn & promotes flow .
 I live in a cold climate & have no issue starting these cars in even cool weather , just pump it a couple of times nurse the throttle for a minute or so & you are good to go , if you never see snow you will not have an issue