440ci Magnum Build

[Carlwalski]

I would start with a std bore block and store what you have if it's original.

Looking around, this isn't such a bad idea! There are 550hp "crate" combos around, turn key. It'll be a faster process too (not that I care, do it once do it right) but all I'd need to do is remove mine, drop the crate in and go and store my #'s block or put it on display in my garage. An advantage is I can REALLY nail it and not worry as much as if it were a #'s block, there is always that remote chance of making a window in the block with lots and lots of heavy WOT style driving.  Below is just one of many places that sell them, $6,600 for a 550 crate 440. If I used my engine that would have cost me at least another $3-$4K, that's fantastic!

http://www.precisionengine.com/rebuilt-engines/dodge-crate-engines/index.html

[73EStroker]

  Carl - I spent $5500 on my shortblock at a very reputable machinists shop. Same guy CP uses. And I tried to run on a budget . But Barry guaranteed that my engine would stay together at 7000RPM. We used all the right parts. So be wary of inexpensive engines. My total was $13,500 fan to clutch. I thought back and could not have built such a stout engine with a reputable builder for less money - sad but factual.

[bb71challenger]

Heck, if you have good compression I would swap the cam and see how that does for you. One of the good things about a big block is you dont even have to pull the intake to swap cams. Get the lifter tool and you can get them out through the openings in the heads. If you have a single bolt cam, now is a good time to upgrade to 3 bolt cam and timing chain, lots more peace of mind, dont ask me how I know.......

[Carlwalski]

Heck, if you have good compression I would swap the cam and see how that does for you. One of the good things about a big block is you dont even have to pull the intake to swap cams. Get the lifter tool and you can get them out through the openings in the heads. If you have a single bolt cam, now is a good time to upgrade to 3 bolt cam and timing chain, lots more peace of mind, dont ask me how I know.......

Really?? A camshaft can be changed while the engine is still IN the car?? Dang, that's cool. I've stated from the beginning that the camshaft is definitely the culprit, it's WAY to smooth. I've attached a larger image of the Cam spec sheet. What would you guys recommend? The car does feel like it has the power there but only at the very top end, it feels like it has 2.76 gears.

Maybe a good grunty cam, new intake, carb and airfilter setup are the way to go to get me another 50hp+ and better response all while keeping the #'s block, hmmmm, this sounds good. As you'll see by the camsheet, it's a very stock standard (worse?) performing grind. What kind of info do yo guys need to get my current compression ratio?

[brads70]

"that cam you posted is a turd! "
  Don't hold back Jason, tell him how you really feel!  

[Carlwalski]

Well, it's the truth and I agree. I've being saying it all along, the camshaft is the major downfall for my engine.

I should be clear, the power is "OK" but seems to be better higher up, I'd like more grunt down low (if possible all through the rpms). I'm trying to locate (track down) the build sheet so I can let you guys view the tech specs.

[Carlwalski]

Carl - I spent $5500 on my shortblock at a very reputable machinists shop. Same guy CP uses. And I tried to run on a budget . But Barry guaranteed that my engine would stay together at 7000RPM. We used all the right parts. So be wary of inexpensive engines. My total was $13,500 fan to clutch. I thought back and could not have built such a stout engine with a reputable builder for less money - sad but factual.

Thanks mate, pricey for sure but the final outcome is all worth it.

[Carlwalski]

i really dont think it would take you much at all to pump her up 125 ponies.... and is the cheapest route... you can run the mopar 284/528 cam with stock pistons and stock rocker ratio... holley 950 carb and a looser converter/ headers and a rear gear change and minor port/bowl work. (I think you run an auto)
around 2g's and still look stock under the hood.. i like the mopar .528 cam cause it has a wide centerline and pulls hard across the rpm band 

ditch the AC also. Ive never cruised with the window up 

Thank you Sledgehammer. I think this is the route to go, it seems the most logical. The car has headers and 3.91 and as much as I can see removing the A/C, I can't. Down here, rain storms due to being muggy happy and when it does, it's nice to have the cool air on with the windows up (rain). I've been doing searches on this forum and it seems intake wise, the Eddy Performer and Holly Street Dominator intakes come up way more than anything else.

My current carb is an Eddy 800cfm Thunder Series AVS. I like the setup below, I like the valve cover look, nice high(er) intake and free sitting air filter, looks good. What is everyone's opinion on what I could gain hp wise with: new camshaft, intake, larger carb (900-950cfm? overkill?). I know it's hard without the specs, gutted but just a ball park. Figure I'm making 380hp as-is. Both the Holley AND Eddy intakes below look perfect but the Holley looks to be the better reading the specs.


Holley Street Dominator 300-14  -  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-300-14/


Edelbrock Performer 2191  -  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-2191/




Thanks!

[Carlwalski]

Found the MoPar 284/528 cam, looks good. Is there any other cams you guys know of that will work with a stock style setup? Keep in mind, my engine has had a 0.30 bore. I have idea what pistons are being used. Am doing my best to get them through the builders son. the builder the shop I used to go to retired.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-5007697/

[bb71challenger]

Seems like people are digging the Lunati Voodoo cams Carl. They resemble the Engle grinds according to ChrycoPsycho. Might be something to look at while you are researching cams.   

[Carlwalski]

Seems like people are digging the Lunati Voodoo cams Carl. They resemble the Engle grinds according to ChrycoPsycho. Might be something to look at while you are researching cams.   

Thanks bud, I'll check it out. How will I know if the cam will work with my setup short of removing the block and having the engine guy inspect everything. I have no clue what specs are inside lol. The most technical specs I have at present are: pistons for 0.30", big end and main bearing sets @ 0.20" and hydraulic lifters. Not sure if that is enough to chose a cam.

[bb71challenger]

A new cam will always use a new set of lifters unless you have those badass ceramic coated lifters. Thats really all there is to it, each lobe has its specific lifter, change them around and you will blow a lobe most likely. A good running engine like yours is sure to love a new cam. The other crucial thing is cam break in. You will get it all buttoned up and have the engine ready to start immediately. Once you start it up its important to keep it at 2k or thereabouts for 20 minutes. Easy peazy lemon squeezy. After break in is when you can time it and tune it to the knats ass. I am pretty sure the right cam will make you happy. No need to go crazy with a whole engine rebuild when you are about to have that hemi to play with anyway.
 One word of warning, be careful if you try to keep your a/c charged. It can be done but just be careful, I lost a good condensor when I was swapping engines with the system charged. My condensor slipped sometime in the process and it ripped it like a old towel. Take out the rad and the condensor, it would be best to evacuate the system and vacuum and recharge after you are done, much safer that way. I didnt even have to loosen my radiator yoke, the cam can be worked out without hurting the cam bearings. After you get done you will be amazed at how easy it is.   

[Carlwalski]

A new cam will always use a new set of lifters unless you have those badass ceramic coated lifters. Thats really all there is to it, each lobe has its specific lifter, change them around and you will blow a lobe most likely. A good running engine like yours is sure to love a new cam. The other crucial thing is cam break in. You will get it all buttoned up and have the engine ready to start immediately. Once you start it up its important to keep it at 2k or thereabouts for 20 minutes. Easy peazy lemon squeezy. After break in is when you can time it and tune it to the knats ass. I am pretty sure the right cam will make you happy. No need to go crazy with a whole engine rebuild when you are about to have that hemi to play with anyway.
 One word of warning, be careful if you try to keep your a/c charged. It can be done but just be careful, I lost a good condensor when I was swapping engines with the system charged. My condensor slipped sometime in the process and it ripped it like a old towel. Take out the rad and the condensor, it would be best to evacuate the system and vacuum and recharge after you are done, much safer that way. I didnt even have to loosen my radiator yoke, the cam can be worked out without hurting the cam bearings. After you get done you will be amazed at how easy it is.   

Thanks mate, awesome info and I can't agree more now, this is the best route for this car. Be almost stupid in a way I guess to rebuild a 5,000 mile engine when the culprit itself is just 1 or 2 items. I'm not sure what my lifters are, I do have photos of the engine, maybe you can tell from that? Going from the camshaft spec sheet I posted, they state the lifter part# and it came up with the link below, hydraulic flat btappet lifters.

The camshaft Sledgehammer posted looks good but isn't the rpm too low for what I am wanting? Comes in around 2,500, my current one comes in around 1,500rpm. Unless the much improved lift and dur @ .50 is what will give the engine the kick and response it needs. My ideal rpm range would be from 1,000rpm to 5,500rpm. Also, they sell that camshaft with lifters as a kit, makes life much easier. Any other options for a camshaft to compare too the 284/528? Any similar Lunati cams you guys like?


Thanks again guys.


Mopar Camshaft + Lifters Kit  -  http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar-Performance/312/P4120659K/10002/-1#

Current Lifters  -  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-HT2011?part=SUM-HT2011

[Carlwalski]

Thanks Sledge! That's the kind of response I'd like but I know it won't be "that" much as your engine was a 500" and had good power but that is how I'd like it. I'm 90% sure my converter is the stock 2,800rpm unit. I guess if I'm worried about response at cruising rpms etc, then it's pointless looking for something that is on from idle so the 528 is looking quite tasty. Is this cam and lifter kit the one I'd buy http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar-Performance/312/P4120659K/10002/-1#

You're correct, I'm not into going down the strip however I do really like that side of the performance, I just do my track driving in the badlands where no one else drives, I like to get out and enjoy the car for me and like the 1/4 performance and 0-60mph times to gather my vehicles performance.

What intake do you think will run perfectly with that 528 cam? How lumpy do you think it'll be? In your video, what camshaft is that, dur/lift? I know we've had our differences and pretty ugly moments on here but that still doesn't mean I don't appreciate your help, so thanks.

[Chryco Psycho]

the 528 is a very mild cam & idles very well with good vacuum , I have used 1.6 rockers in the past to get a bit more power out of it or I can dig through the Lunati book & come up with a more modern lobe design that will work for you .
 you can measure valve clearance by having the pistion 6* before TDC for exhaust or 6 * after to measure intake  & depressing the valve until it touches the piston using a dial guage to measure the clearance .
Lunati has some killer grinds using minimal duration & a lot of lift , they idle well & make good vacuum & really make serious power but you have to create the cam , they are not listed in the regular section , there is a special cam lobe section in the rear for the .906 " diameter lifters , you an get mid .500 lift at under 250* duration