727 or 904 - shifter madness - I don't have any hair left to pull - HELP!!!

[az-nick]

From what I have researched, 360ci only came with a 727, is this correct?
I have a 76-79 360ci in my Chally so I am assuming it is the original tranny pulled from what ever car or van or truck the 360 came from.
If this is true, is there any difference between a 76-79 727 and a 70-74 727 or 904 when it attaches to the console shifter?
I have to struggle to get the shifter placed into park by putting some downward force on the shifter and I have no first location.
Also each shift location seems very wrong.
I have searched and read the previous posts and I tried to adjust the bar at the swivel point and 1/2 nut as suggested and this has not corrected anything.
I can swivel or move the horizontal bar that runs from the trans ear to the swivel assembly back and forth (towards pass door and driver door) a good 1 to 1 1/2 inch, is that normal?
I do not have the car up on stands, I am just reaching to get to the rods and I cannot really see the front connecting point, there an adjustment area also?

Also I have not removed the console to check the shifter, is this needed for adjustment and if so does the console need to be removed or the top plate only?

Can anyone give me any advice on this, it is frustrating.
Any pics would be helpful also.
thanks, Nick

[quapman]

727's came on 340's and some 318's as well, but if yours came from a truck, it probably does not have the attatching bosses for the vertical z-bar swivel bracket. If this is the case, yours might have been rigged and the swivel is just flopping around in space or who knows?

OR

Parts from the donor vehicle may have been used and are the wrong length.

I think 904 & 727 floor shift parts are interchangeable.

70 Cars also have additional linkage to the steering column for the key lockout. (Only allows key to be removed in park.) I've seen few cars that still have this. It usually got tossed in the event of a motor swap.

[az-nick]

Thanks Steve, I guess I better get  a couple of Pic ready to post, I am charging the battery now and I will have them up in a couple of hours, I hope they tell a story of what is there and if it is right....
By the way, it was nice talking to you the other day, I will think of you when I am at Nicks for the garbage plate!!!....

[az-nick]

Here are 2 pics i took, i am unsure what I should be taking but I started with these 2.

[az-nick]

So if that is the shaft, is that the bushing every has mentioned that has worn out and needed to be replaced?

Also on the other picture is there suppose to be a bushing between the square box and upper bracket?

[quapman]

It looks like you've got all the right parts, but yes, I see the fore/aft tilt you are talking about.

Worn or wrong trans mount or motor mounts might be the culprit here.

OR

The lever that is on the trans could be loose. It's on a "D" shaped shaft, so could be loose and still function, but sloppily.

Unfortunately, there are a myriad of possibilities as to what could be off.

[brads70]

On the tranny bracket,isen't there supposed to be a plastic bushing to hold the shaft?that one looks loose? and on the adjuster I used a thin washer to take up some of the slack on mine? Maybe it's not adjusted right? I put the shifter and tranny arm in neutral and set the adjuster,then go through the gears to check? It looks suspisious to me that the adjuster is almost at the end? did you remove the console to see what's happening up top too? (linkage,spring etc..)

[quapman]

Adding to Brad's wisdom, there should be a similar plastic bushing/bracket under the console on the top side. There is a small amount of adjustment possible there if the bracket is loosened.

[az-nick]

all right, lets take this in steps so I stay focused and not confused.
In the first picture I can see the shaft is at an angle going through the bushing.
The bracket holding the bushing can either be not mounted correctly or the shaft coming down is screwed up, is this correct or am I wrong to think this?

In the second picture,I agree with Brad, I am sure there is something missing between the square and split pin or cotter pin, and yes a washer should help, is this correct or not on what you are thinking.

[az-nick]

When I tried to adjust it the best I could do was I followed the following post by Matt B that i found in an old thread.

To properly adjust your console automatic transmission shifter linkage; First make sure the car is on level ground and "E" brake engaged. Loosen the adjustable rod swivel lock bolt (1/2" wrench). This is the rod (under the car) that connects to the tansmission shift control lever. Place the slap stick shifter in "PARK". Now move the shift control lever on the transmission all the way to the rear (in PARK detent). Set adjustable rod to proper length with no load applied in either direction on linkage. Now tighten the adjustable swivel lock bolt. Check your adjustment. Shift effort must be free and detents feel crisp. All gate stops must be positive. Detent position must be close enough to gate stops in neutral and drive to assure that hand lever (slap stick) will not remain out of detent position when placed against the gate and then released. Key start must occur only when shift lever is in PARK or NEUTRAL positions.  Hope this is clear & helpful!!

                                                     Matt B.

Is this NOT the way to adjust it?

[az-nick]

On the tranny bracket,isen't there supposed to be a plastic bushing to hold the shaft?that one looks loose? and on the adjuster I used a thin washer to take up some of the slack on mine? Maybe it's not adjusted right? I put the shifter and tranny arm in neutral and set the adjuster,then go through the gears to check? It looks suspisious to me that the adjuster is almost at the end? did you remove the console to see what's happening up top too? (linkage,spring etc..)

Which picture shows the tranny bracket missing the bushing or looks to be loose, is it the one I mentioned with the shaft or bracket tilted?

No I hav not removed the console, I did not know if the full console needs to be removed or just the top plate, so am I to understand that the full console should come out?
Is there any special instructions for the shifer itself to be dismanteled first?

[quapman]

The physical condition of the parts in pic #1 look fine to me.

A washer wouldn't hurt in the pic #2 connection, but I don't think most have it. I'd like to see the other end of that horizontal linkage.

Here's what you should see once the console is removed. You'll have to remove the metal top plate, then the console itself. (2 screws under the door, 2 more up front) The shifter mechanism itself can stay in place.

[moparmaniac59]

Try replacing the nylon bushings, one inside the car at the forward end of the linkage on the vertical shaft that penetrates the floorboard. The other one is under the car on the other end of the vertical shaft. You can get them from R/T Specialties, they are expensive at 10 bucks each, but worth it if it corrects the slop. The other problem I found is the adjustable swivel (on my car) is extremely sloppy. To fix this you will have remove the adjustable swivel (it is retained by a cotter pin) to weld up the hole and redrill it. This will make a BIG difference in the slop. You can also redrill the hole a little further fwd of the transmission and shorthen the throw of the linkage which may also eliminate some slop. See the diagram below. Good luck!

                                              Matt B.

[az-nick]

here is under the console
Look at the shifter plate, it is attached by only 1 screw, I am not sure if this has any effect on the function but it is at angle slightly.
Look at the bushing on the shaft that drops down to the tranny, is this bushing suppose to be above the metal brace or should it be sqeezedinto it?
I also took pictures of the shifter plate and the rod going into the side.
Also I notice the large spring is missing from the front bracket, are they available and where?
Any other things look out of place?

[moparmaniac59]

Let me see if I can make it a little bigger!


                                                 Matt B.