Author Topic: Welding is all done, now what?  (Read 1656 times)

Offline boydsdodge

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Welding is all done, now what?
« on: February 21, 2010 - 06:57:02 PM »
Any good body men out there?
I am looking for what to seal my welds with before continuing with the bodywork.
Do I use a fiberglass resin? or should I kill myself using lead?
Do I use an etch primer over the welded patches or leave bare under filler?
Maybe someone knows a good body site.
Thanks.
Jackson from Toronto.




Offline RB2929

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Re: Welding is all done, now what?
« Reply #1 on: February 21, 2010 - 07:24:17 PM »
 :useless:
C'mon, pics are cool

Offline Topcat

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Re: Welding is all done, now what?
« Reply #2 on: February 21, 2010 - 07:44:34 PM »
Any good body men out there?
I am looking for what to seal my welds with before continuing with the bodywork.
Do I use a fiberglass resin? or should I kill myself using lead?
Do I use an etch primer over the welded patches or leave bare under filler?
Maybe someone knows a good body site.
Thanks.


Awww come on, the lead isn't that bad anymore.
It's mostly solder now. At least Eastwood's is.

The 1st coat primer I use is a direct to metal. No need for etching primer.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HIGH-BUILD-DIRECT-TO-METAL-URETHANE-PRIMER-Auto-Paint_W0QQitemZ190372010670QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20100210?IMSfp=TL100210152018r11520

I wouldn't claim to be a body work pro by any means. But I keep learning and practicing, watching videos, looking at pictures, and reading.
I'm beginning to get it finally.
Mike, Fremont, CA.


Offline elitecustombody

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Re: Welding is all done, now what?
« Reply #3 on: February 21, 2010 - 08:23:00 PM »
Use etching primer,if you want to prevent corrosion, do not use any filler on bare metal before coating with epoxy,
Stefan B

Elite Custom Body = AMD Sheetmetal & Glass at great prices !!


Don't do what's easy, do what's right!!

Offline e-tek

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Re: Welding is all done, now what?
« Reply #4 on: February 21, 2010 - 08:35:38 PM »
Well, I'm a body pro so maybe I can help.....

As said, pics are nice - for better informed advice...there's at least two schools of thougt on almost anything - even when only one is right!!! ;)

I like lead - but VERY FEW people use it. There's no real need to. No redeeming factors to it....I fill direclty over metal and weld - always. Some poeple think you should prime under filler, but (a) even the filler info says no need and (b) after 30+ years of expereince, IF PREPPED PROPERLY, you won't have a problem.

The only time I have ever seen an issue with flash rust occuring under bondo is when it's a humiud environment, or someone wiped it down with a wet/damp rag prior to filler. The correct base for filler is 24-80 grit grinder and a wipe with a pre-paint solvent, which is wiped off when still wet, with a clean lint free towel (it's in the directions on the can).

As an aside - as it's related - if you are stripping paint off larger portions of metal, you should ALWAYS either: use an etch primer then a high build urethane, OR, just an EPOXY primer. IT'S EITHER OR GENTLEMEN!!!!! Again: EITHER ETCH+URETHANE, OR EPOXY alone. Why? Look it up!

BEST AUTOBODY SITE I KNOW: autobodystore.com. Len knows all!


Offline Topcat

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Re: Welding is all done, now what?
« Reply #5 on: February 21, 2010 - 09:31:22 PM »
Well, I'm a body pro so maybe I can help.....

As said, pics are nice - for better informed advice...there's at least two schools of thougt on almost anything - even when only one is right!!! ;)

I like lead - but VERY FEW people use it. There's no real need to. No redeeming factors to it....I fill direclty over metal and weld - always. Some poeple think you should prime under filler, but (a) even the filler info says no need and (b) after 30+ years of expereince, IF PREPPED PROPERLY, you won't have a problem.


Prepping isn't the issue why lead/ solder should be used.

There is a redeeming factor.
What you're looking at is differential coefficient expansion rate of the two different materials. Plastic and metal. Especially when it gets hot out with the car in the sun.
Indoors at cool temps it won't be as visible.

At the sail panel, there is a tendency to get the band-aid effect once plastic expands at a faster rate than the surrounding metal.

Been there, done that, seen it and no way you can convince me otherwise not to use lead at the sail panel ajoinment area.  :2cents:
Mike, Fremont, CA.


Offline E-Body Products

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Re: Welding is all done, now what?
« Reply #6 on: February 21, 2010 - 10:26:39 PM »
Topcat, what about Metal-To-Metal in the sail panel.  Do you think this is OK?  I did this and have not seen any issue.  Although, the car is still inside and has never been in the sun like you mentioned.  Primarily, because I am still working on the body work. :banghead:

Offline Topcat

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Re: Welding is all done, now what?
« Reply #7 on: February 21, 2010 - 10:51:50 PM »
Topcat, what about Metal-To-Metal in the sail panel.  Do you think this is OK?  I did this and have not seen any issue.  Although, the car is still inside and has never been in the sun like you mentioned.  Primarily, because I am still working on the body work. :banghead:

I think it all depends on how deep the seam area is going to be.

For me, the left quarter and sail panel were put on pretty sloppy from the factory. Originally a vinyl car filled with factory sawdust type putty. The center area was deeper to fill in.

Metal to metal is still a plastic based filler. I tried it the second time, painted the car black after I first saw the band aid effect the first time mentioned earlier. It still did the same thing.

Keep in mind the factory leaded hard tops but never did do it to all vinyl top cars. They knew obviously why you lead hard tops and not vinyl top cars. It wasn't cost effective to kead cars for sure. Another reason to lead is that it ties the back half of the car together. This reduces flex. Most everybody is doing frame connectors now so those should help immensely. Leading isn't that hard. Just ask Challenger crazy. he did it. I helped coach him thru it. It came out fine. 
Mike, Fremont, CA.


Offline elitecustombody

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Re: Welding is all done, now what?
« Reply #8 on: February 21, 2010 - 11:03:52 PM »
Topcat, what about Metal-To-Metal in the sail panel.  Do you think this is OK?  I did this and have not seen any issue.  Although, the car is still inside and has never been in the sun like you mentioned.  Primarily, because I am still working on the body work. :banghead:

there is a way to get rid of the factory roof skin to quarter seam, some guys weld in a strip to bridge roof skin to quarter , you can cut the flanges off and butt-weld a strip in, that's the method I'd advise ,you don't want to overlap metal and leave hollow inaccessible area to treat and prevent corrosion
Stefan B

Elite Custom Body = AMD Sheetmetal & Glass at great prices !!


Don't do what's easy, do what's right!!

Offline E-Body Products

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Re: Welding is all done, now what?
« Reply #9 on: February 22, 2010 - 08:16:42 AM »
My car is going to have a vinyl to, so I might just leave it.  It will be less likely to show up and it is also stored in a garage.  Therefore, weather is not as big of an issue.

Does this change things in your opinion?

Thanks for you suggestions.  If I do another car, I will for sure consider lead as a better option.

Offline elitecustombody

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Re: Welding is all done, now what?
« Reply #10 on: February 22, 2010 - 08:29:14 AM »
you'll be fine if the car will have vinyl top,anything is better than the garbage that was used at the factory
Stefan B

Elite Custom Body = AMD Sheetmetal & Glass at great prices !!


Don't do what's easy, do what's right!!

Offline boydsdodge

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Re: Welding is all done, now what?
« Reply #11 on: February 22, 2010 - 12:27:38 PM »
Thanks for the replys, The bodyshopstore site is a great help.
I would post pics but I just got a new phone and I am having a time getting them off.
Jackson from Toronto.