Proportioning valve question- wilwood adjustable versus "combination valves"

[shadango]

I was all set to buy a Wilwood proportioning valve top use in my drum to disk conversion....

I bought the aluminum master cylinder setup from Dr Diff on fleabay.

I asked him about the prop valve and he suggested the "repro combination valves" as being "superclean and needs no adjustments".

That appeals to me...would like to install "something" and forget it.

He says they are about $85....

Do you guys think he is talking about these?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180331815708&crlp=1_263602_263622&ff4=263602_263622&viewitem=&guid=f2426ca71260a0266b761b36fffadb52&rvr_id=&ua=WXF%3F&itemid=180331815708

It looks really similar to what I have on my car already but I am sure its different internally since my car was drums....

I know the wilwood valve is adjustable but I cant see ever needing to adjust it (for track etc) once I install it on my car...I would like to set it and forget it.....especially if it just replaces what I have now...not sure if the fittings would be the same or what....

If this isnt the right one do you guys have any idea what ones he is talking about?

[Supercuda]

The adjustable proportioning valve from Wilwood is an excellent piece; it is adjustable because every combination is different, and this can require subtle changes in proportioning to give the best braking performance. If you plan on ever throwing your ride through cones, the adjustable valve is a good choice. Although the factory-style combination valve is ok with a stock disc/drum setup, it is a compromise, with no adjustability. It includes a metering valve, which will delay the application of the front brakes momentarily, in order for the rear brakes to overcome the return springs, and help control brake dive. Although it is a nice feature, it isn't critical in a properly balanced system. Controlling rear brake lockup is always critical, and a good proportioning valve is the best way to do this. Adjustability just lets you get it "perfect" without disassembling the system.

[Bullitt-]

Why not this?

http://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/260-11179/10002/-1?parentProductId=1284815

[brads70]

  we are both in the same boat with the same parts at the same stage! LOL
This is what I have now on the car ,can anyone ID it as a drum p-valve or a disc-drum p -valve? Sorry don't mean to hijack your post , just thought seeing as we are in the same boat sharing info would help us both?

[shadango]

That sure looks exactly what I have...

Hey, if we are both asking the same question, its not hijacking...its "bandwidth  economization"....LOL

 

[Changin Gears]

The factory setup is very poor, rears locking up before fronts.  I've even seen this on an old road test of a new ebody from '70 or '71 on youtube.  I would rather have no rear brakes than the factory setup, panic stop 180 is no fun. 

Those aftermarket adjustables work great.

[dodj]

Shadango, Brads70, I'd go for the one Bullitt posted. All in one unit, no muss, no fuss! Less brake line work to do than the way mine is.
BTW, you'll have to adapt your brake warning light plug.

Changin' Gears, you outta sell that signature pic as a poster! Nice!

[IMNCARN82]

I had to put an adjustable prop. valve in the rear line only for my 4 discs. In the end It needed to be wide open.       It does depend on the brake manufacturers specs. Some are designed to work with disc/drum MC's. Like the Baer I chose.  Plus I can crank em off and smoke em up!         That one Bulllitt posted does look nice!!! 

[dodj]

  Plus I can crank em off and smoke em up!         

Another plus!
You know.....I can't believe I never thought of that before !?!

[shadango]

Shadango, Brads70, I'd go for the one Bullitt posted. All in one unit, no muss, no fuss! Less brake line work to do than the way mine is.
BTW, you'll have to adapt your brake warning light plug.

Changin' Gears, you outta sell that signature pic as a poster! Nice!

Do I have this right:

Seems like for your setup, you reroute the rear line that originally connects to the rear brake line (from the original dist. valve to the prop valve and then make a new line to connect the original dist block to the prop valve.....  The master cylinder connection stays the same.

For the fancier version, the stock dist block comes out and the connections hook up to it.

Now, the big question -- does either or both require changing the fittings?

For the fancier version, seems like it will need new fittings etc.....

[brads70]

    Good question!

[shadango]

According to summits site the fittings are 1/8" NPT...that cant be right.....researching it further, it does NOT not have a metering valve....it is only a proportioning valve, basically like the other single in/out version that is used by a lot of folks here.

Seems to me it would be more work to use this one....changing the fittings on 5 lines instead of (at most) one with the other one, which also needs a new short "jumper" line made.

I dont see a big benefit to the black one. Do you?

I am leaning towards the simpler one so i can keep the stock dist block.

The conversation I saw though brought up metering, etc though....got me wondering there.  The "dist block" that I have doesnt have any metering in it.....right?

[Changin Gears]

Do I have this right:

Seems like for your setup, you reroute the rear line that originally connects to the rear brake line (from the original dist. valve to the prop valve and then make a new line to connect the original dist block to the prop valve.....  The master cylinder connection stays the same.

For the fancier version, the stock dist block comes out and the connections hook up to it.

Now, the big question -- does either or both require changing the fittings?

For the fancier version, seems like it will need new fittings etc.....

You are correct about how to plumb it. 

Pipe thread to flare fitting adapters are then used for the connections.  These are available at any parts store if they don't come with the prop valve.  Make sure you used teflon tape on the pipe threads, not on the flare fittings.

[shadango]

I decided to throw cuation to the wind and just get the one that everyone seems to like the most....the wilwood single control, one in/one out unit.

I figure that many people cant be wrong.  LOL     

On a side note...i was disappointed to learn that Summit has disabled all discount codes.

Well, that will definately affect my purchasing decisions going forward.  They get the parts to me FAST (I live close to them)...so for stuff I need tomorrow I will go to them...but for stuff that isnt time sensitive there are other options priced the same.....those discount codes helped to pry open my wallet a few times.....

[dodj]

You'll really notice better braking once you get it dialed in. My car used to think the rear end was supposed to lead during heavy braking.