Author Topic: Does this make sense? (Read 1855 times)

Sean · « **on:** March 11, 2010 - 05:34:08 PM »

Hey everyone!
I�ll be back home in about two months and will be digging into the �Cuda once again. Where I sit now is:
Have the tail panel, both quarters, trunk pan, deck lid, trunk drop offs, cross rail extensions, and trunk drip rails removed. I plan on removing the inner & outer wheel houses as well. I have (or will have shortly) replacement sheet metal for all the pieces mentioned above. Only other sheet metal that I will need is a driver�s side floor pan, header panel, battery tray, both fenders, and a front valance. However, I may discover I might need something else after I remove the rust.

My plan for the rust removal and panel placement is as follows: I�ll go ahead and remove the inner & outer wheel houses. I know someone that will let me use their sand blaster and sand for free at his shop if I do the blasting myself. Take the car up there and blast it. Bring it back home and epoxy primer the shell and then attach the sheet metal on the back half of the car (trunk pan, wheel houses, tail panel, drop offs, quarters, etc�). Then cut out and replace the driver�s side floor. The car will not be on a rotisserie and will be garage kept.

I do have a few questions in regards to my plan that I would appreciate feedback on:

1. Will I be OK if I go ahead and cut out the driver�s side floor pan before I go and sandblast the shell? Will the car be rigid enough without that part of the pan in there? There are no torque boxes or frame rail connectors on it.

2. Will I be OK if I don�t epoxy primer the shell until I get all the sheet metal work done (floor pan and all the metal on the rear of the car). Because of time constraints, it may be a month or two after I get the car blasted before I get all the sheet metal fitted and welded. I�m thinking I�d want to get the metal covered right away to prevent flash rust and contaminates (grease/oil) from getting on the bare metal.

Below are a couple of the 'along the way' pics.

Also, any other feedback or tips would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Sean

Cuda Cody · « **Reply #1 on:** March 11, 2010 - 05:46:54 PM »

These are unibody. The panels are part of the strength. I would have blasted before I even went as far as you did. That's just me. Also, build a jig to keep everything straight.... might be to late now, but you can always try to re-square it all back up.

Challenger III · « **Reply #2 on:** March 11, 2010 - 07:16:53 PM »

I'm sitting about where you are, minus the roof. I don't dare move the car off of anything level 'till there's more to it. I won't budge it off the supports while the floors are out.

Mike

Topcat · « **Reply #3 on:** March 11, 2010 - 07:21:06 PM »

Cody your project looks great.

I don't think that little tank will go very far for welding your project though.

Cuda Cody · « **Reply #4 on:** March 11, 2010 - 07:31:09 PM »

Man, you're good. Can't sneak anything past you. BTW, you are right. I already ran it out and bought the bigger one.

Where were you when I was buying the first bottle!

Quote from: Topcat on March 11, 2010 - 07:21:06 PM

Cody your project looks great.

I don't think that little tank will go very far for welding your project though.

Sean · « **Reply #5 on:** March 11, 2010 - 08:03:49 PM »

Appreciate the info!

Cody, I didn't think that taking off what I did would lead to a potiential problem. Thanks for the heads up!!!

Chall III, I knew the floor would probably have to stay in while the other work I mentioned was done. Looks like keeping it in for the mean time is the best bet.

Sean

dutch · « **Reply #6 on:** March 12, 2010 - 02:53:52 AM »

I agree with Cody. looks like a lot of metal you cut out. I would build a rig before moving it anywhere. Make sure you`ve got your measurements correct before putting it back together.

cody, that project looks supersweet

great workspace too

whats up with that tiny engine in the back... or is your shop that big...

Cuda Cody · « **Reply #7 on:** March 12, 2010 - 04:59:28 AM »

You are very observant... that's the original big block fro the RT I'm working on. The space looks a lot smaller now with a 2nd challenger project and a paint booth.

I'm trying to get my paint to look like yours!

Quote from: dutch on March 12, 2010 - 02:53:52 AM

cody, that project looks supersweet great workspace too
whats up with that tiny engine in the back... or is your shop that big...

Sean · « **Reply #8 on:** March 12, 2010 - 05:24:01 AM »

Thanks Dutch! It is a lot of metal that's been cut. I'll make sure my measurements are good before putting the sheet metal back on and look into getting a rig built when I get home to support the car to keep everything straight.

Sean

Topcat · « **Reply #9 on:** March 12, 2010 - 10:43:15 AM »

Quote from: C O D Y on March 11, 2010 - 07:31:09 PM

Man, you're good. Can't sneak anything past you. BTW, you are right. I already ran it out and bought the bigger one.

Where were you when I was buying the first bottle!

lol. I did the same thing when I first started. Bought a small bottle and it went dry.

Next time you get it filled after doing all heavy guage metal, ask them to juice it a little more with Argon in it snce you'll be doing sheet metal. Don't forget the twenty guage brand wire too.

Sean, your work is coming along great. Keep at it. Can't wait to see more of your progress too.

torredcuda · « **Reply #10 on:** March 12, 2010 - 06:08:44 PM »

I have left cars in bare metal before but I`m going to try the Picklex when I get my road runner blasted-
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=66108.0

E-Body Products · « **Reply #11 on:** March 12, 2010 - 11:37:48 PM »

with Torredcuda

Eastwood's OxiSolve product does really good too. It leaves a nice phosphate coating after you apply it and rinse with H2O.

Sean · « **Reply #12 on:** March 13, 2010 - 03:31:57 PM »

Thanks Mike! I can't wait to get home to get to work on her again! It's been a long time coming!

Jeff, Daniel - I'm going to talk to the guy I'm going to have paint the car before I buy any of the products. I'll see what he recommends, since he's the one who will be applying it and have to guarantee the work! The Picklex stuff looks pretty good and you usually can't go wrong with Eastwood. Appreciate the heads up about the products!

Sean

dutch · « **Reply #13 on:** March 13, 2010 - 05:38:03 PM »

you can also consider blasting the parts that need attention/ welding first... then patch / replace what`s needed, and then send it out for blasting the entire body and epoxy it.

73EStroker · « **Reply #14 on:** March 14, 2010 - 02:34:03 PM »

Cody is correct about the bracing. Before my body guy did anything he braced it all over the inside every which way to keep the body shape. You might have a gorilla of a time aligning the doors but my guy fit the front fender loose then aligned the door to that then tightened the fender down then set the quarter in place to the door. Quarter is fixed so has to be correct to get the other gaps looking good. Then removed door and fender for painting inside and underneath.