Author Topic: Headlight Relays (Read 15268 times)

422STROKER · « **Reply #30 on:** March 18, 2010 - 06:29:25 PM »

yes, I have full battery voltage at the lamp now, I believe with the old set up i had about 1-1.5V drop through the cleaned connections and old wiring switches etc. So running I get 14-14.5V all the time now, Unless I got the stereo going hard, Heat on and wipers they stay bright.lol Maybe I should upgrade my little stock alt!

Don't hack anything, it will work just as well without cutting anything. They sell spade crimps that are the same size as the spade(male) on the back of the lamp to make the harness adapter.

Tom

MEK-Dangerfield · « **Reply #31 on:** March 18, 2010 - 06:45:56 PM »

Quote from: 72challorange on March 18, 2010 - 06:29:25 PM

yes, I have full battery voltage at the lamp now, I believe with the old set up i had about 1-1.5V drop through the cleaned connections and old wiring switches etc. So running I get 14-14.5V all the time now, Unless I got the stereo going hard, Heat on and wipers they stay bright.lol Maybe I should upgrade my little stock alt!

Don't hack anything, it will work just as well without cutting anything. They sell spade crimps that are the same size as the spade(male) on the back of the lamp to make the harness adapter.

Tom

Tom,

Thanks a bunch. I have plenty of those spade connectors. I never gave your version a thought, but it is definitely easier.

dodj · « **Reply #32 on:** March 18, 2010 - 07:44:33 PM »

Quote from: MEK-Dangerfield on March 18, 2010 - 06:23:23 PM

Tom, or anyone else that has done this,

Do you notice a difference in brightness of the headlights? I have the relays and wires, but I haven't gotten to the mounting and hacking into the harness part yet.

Definitely brighter. You will notice a difference @ idle as well.

larry4406 · « **Reply #33 on:** March 18, 2010 - 09:03:33 PM »

Good info. Can you show how this is done without hacking anything and using spade crimps to make a harness adappter?

Chryco Psycho · « **Reply #34 on:** March 18, 2010 - 09:20:54 PM »

it will be the cleanest if you use the gang plug for the relay & solder & heat shrink the connections

422STROKER · « **Reply #35 on:** March 18, 2010 - 10:18:21 PM »

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

Make jumpers to the relay(s) with these and run a wire to the relay to trigger them, basically patch cables. Use heat shrink tube to help keep the elements out as Chryco states.

Tom

VTMopar · « **Reply #36 on:** March 18, 2010 - 11:12:17 PM »

Chryco & All: The 40 amp automotive relay that I purchased has 4 prongs and the package says the following:

30 = Terminal for lights or horns
87 = Terminal from power source
86 = Terminal from Switch
85 = Terminal for relay ground wire.

This relay is made by Optronics (taiwan).... bought at Autozone. So - these are obviously different than the references in Chryco's initial instructions and MEK's diagram.... but I assume I should follow the packaging instructions for the terminal connections?

Thanks
Doug

GoodysGotaCuda · « **Reply #37 on:** March 18, 2010 - 11:17:40 PM »

Quote from: VT MOPAR on March 18, 2010 - 11:12:17 PM

Chryco & All: The 40 amp automotive relay that I purchased has 4 prongs and the package says the following:

30 = Terminal for lights or horns
87 = Terminal from power source
86 = Terminal from Switch
85 = Terminal for relay ground wire.

This relay is made by Optronics (taiwan).... bought at Autozone. So - these are obviously different than the references in Chryco's initial instructions and MEK's diagram.... but I assume I should follow the packaging instructions for the terminal connections?

Thanks
Doug

Generally you can swap the wires for 30 & 87, and 85 & 86 without any ill effects. Would work just fine.

dandsgcuda · « **Reply #38 on:** March 19, 2010 - 01:52:36 AM »

:naughty:here is what I am using for a relay box.Its out of a mid 90's camaro.It fits perfectly under the battery tray and can hold up to 8 relays and a dozen fuses.standard bosch relays fit it perfectly. Got it at a pick a part for $15.00 terminals from terminal supply$10.00 and relays from swap meet for $2.00 a piece.

Chryco Psycho · « **Reply #39 on:** March 19, 2010 - 02:12:45 AM »

nice way to mount the relays Dandsgcuda

Aussie Challenger · « **Reply #40 on:** March 19, 2010 - 05:15:10 AM »

Anything that makes the finished job look clean and factory is worth doing, Dandsgcuda that relay box looks very good.

MEK-Dangerfield my '70 Challenger lights were worse than park lights and I had trouble driving around Riverside California at night they were so dull. When I got back to Australia the first thing was change to Aussie lights and fitted relays, I fitted 3 one for the low beams, one for the high beam on the dual hi/low headlights and the 3rd for the centre two high beams as I will be increasing the wattage of those sometime.
The voltage went from about 5 volts at the head light to 14 volts and of course out here in the semi rural area it is no problem to drive at night now. Headlight switch should last for ever now.

Perhaps a sticky should be made up for this topic as it comes up fairly often, perhaps Chryco & Goody might be able to put something together.

thedodgeboys · « **Reply #41 on:** March 19, 2010 - 05:44:36 AM »

i think this is goodys diagram

or someones

Katfish · « **Reply #42 on:** March 19, 2010 - 08:35:20 AM »

Quote from: dandsgcuda on March 19, 2010 - 01:52:36 AM

:naughty:here is what I am using for a relay box.Its out of a mid 90's camaro.It fits perfectly under the battery tray and can hold up to 8 relays and a dozen fuses.standard bosch relays fit it perfectly. Got it at a pick a part for $15.00 terminals from terminal supply$10.00 and relays from swap meet for $2.00 a piece.

That is clean, got any more info on what yr to look for? Also how did you get wiring diagram for hookup?

ShelbyDogg · « **Reply #43 on:** March 19, 2010 - 03:19:28 PM »

I did this a few years ago after installing H4 bulbs. The stock circuit breaker in the headlight switch would blink my lights off after turning my high beams on. Remember that this circuit, if it blows you lose your headlights, so Buy some 3O amp circuit breakers and use them instead of fuses, right by the relay. This way your lights will go off for a second then come back on. Some of the tree covered curvy roads in Missouri, will kill you if your lights go off.

Chryco, Fusible link wire wants to be out in the air. It also catches fire in some cases and will catch the other wires and the wrapping on fire. Please put in some fuse holders and auto-reset circuit breakers.

Katfish, From your picture, I see that your Negative ground, Battery terminal should go to the engine block and not the firewall. If the motor mounts and tranny mounts get a little dirty, you will fry a little ground wire to the engine while cranking the starter.

Okay, I'll shut up now......

VTMopar · « **Reply #44 on:** March 20, 2010 - 10:19:13 AM »

Sucess! We finished it up this morning. Thanks for the advice & asssitance

My headlights are brighter and virtually no drag at idle.

As noted, it looks a bit scary but is actually quite simple (especially with the coaches here on the site). I only tackled the headlights -- I think I'm going to add another relay for the parking lights, cas I still have a noticeable negative charge at idle (I assume from reading other posts, this is normal.).

Thanks again Chryco for the assist!

VT Mopar

Author Topic: Headlight Relays (Read 15268 times)

422STROKER

Re: Headlight Relays

MEK-Dangerfield

Re: Headlight Relays

dodj

Re: Headlight Relays

larry4406

Re: Headlight Relays

Chryco Psycho

Re: Headlight Relays

422STROKER

Re: Headlight Relays

VTMopar

Re: Headlight Relays

GoodysGotaCuda

Re: Headlight Relays

dandsgcuda

Re: Headlight Relays

Chryco Psycho

Re: Headlight Relays

Aussie Challenger

Re: Headlight Relays

thedodgeboys

Re: Headlight Relays

Katfish

Re: Headlight Relays

ShelbyDogg

Re: Headlight Relays

VTMopar

Re: Headlight Relays