Smoke coming from defrost vent?

[tommyg29]

Ammeter wire burning?
My car started sputtering and then shut off today, and I pulled off the road. At first I saw smoke coming out the front of the shaker, but now I think that was just unburned gas vapors.
I let it cool (and myself!) a few minutes, and tried starting again. Nothing. This happened before so I checked the ballast wires, and sure enough they were both very loose, but I couldnt get either one to click on. They just sort of hang on there barely. Anyway after jiggling with them it started turning over, but no firing. Maybe the ballast is fried, but...then I noticed smoke coming out my driver side defrost vent as I was cranking. I'm not sure but it must be coming from behind the instruments.
I did an alternator to starter relay bypass months ago, using about a 10 or 12 gauge wire, but I didnt disconnect the ammeter. It still reads something, but I know its not accurate.
Where should I start looking before pulling the whole dash apart?

Thanks.

[brads70]

    wow glad nothing caught fire!!! wow. I'm watching this thread as electrical is a weak spot for me, but I enjoy learning.

[MEK-Dangerfield]

If you did the ampmeter bypass, I seriously doubt that is causing this. I know the fuseable link will smoke like h@ll before it blows. Have you checked that out yet? It is coming off your starter relay towards your bulkhead connections.

[tommyg29]

the fusible link near the starter relay is not smoking. I'm sure its coming from behind the instrument panel. Is there another link down there?

[500Stroker]

Did you check the ignition switch connector along the steering column.  That's were my defroster smoke came from when it failed.

[dodj]

Ammeter wire burning?
 so I checked the ballast wires, and sure enough they were both very loose, but I couldnt get either one to click on. They just sort of hang on there barely. Anyway after jiggling with them it started turning over, but no firing. Maybe the ballast is fried, but...then I noticed smoke coming out my driver side defrost vent as I was cranking. I'm not sure but it must be coming from behind the instruments.

First of all, the ballast connections need to be solid. A poor connection there will give you trouble. Seeing as you have identified those as being loose, tighten/repair/replace those connections.
If you have done the ammeter bypass effectively, there are no longer any high current demand connections in the dash/BH, but follow the red, blue and yellow wires from the bottom of your column connector. They are doing all the work when you are cranking the engine. 

[tommyg29]

thanks for the ideas. I know what I'm doing tomorrow.
Car is at my friends house near where it quit, so I'll be packing my tools in the morning.

[tommyg29]

I have a 2 pin resistor but msd ignition, so
I understand the resistor isnt even necessary, but how would I eliminate it?
I read this by "dodj" in another thread:

"To get rid of the ballast resistor just unplug it and tie the brown and blue wires from it to the small red msd wire together and you are done".
Which red msd wire?

And Is the resistor available in the average parts store?

[dodj]

Which red msd wire?

And Is the resistor available in the average parts store?

Its the small red MSD 'enable' wire, I've heard it is orange on some boxes. It's the wire that 'turns on' the MSD when you turn the key. I wouldn't suggest changing your wiring until you get the existing arrangement working. If you start changing things now you might go around in circles trying to figure out where the original fault is.

Ballast resistors are usually available in any parts store, but you can check it with a meter to see if it's ok (probably is)It should read about 1.2 ohms.

[tommyg29]

Well, here's what I found, in order:




Thanks stroker cause I first checked the column connector and found just what you did, though maybe not as bad. I think this is good news? at least I dont have a fried instrument panel. I tried seperating the wires a little and stuffing the brown wire up into the connector a little better, and using some electrical spray.
Next I checked the resistor and sure enough it was toast. I bought another for $5 and installed it but the connectors still dont firmly click on, but at least now they aren't loose. The engine turns over well but apparently no ignition spark, so...

Then I pulled and broke apart the connector and removed the brown wire (looks like about 12 or 14 gauge?) to try and get a better connection. The red wire adjacent to it looks tired too but I dont think that is the problem. I tried improving the connection, but now I get nothing when I turn the key, except a little smoke off the brown wire at the connection point (I reconnected it by crimping the bullet into the sleeve). The fact that it smokes tells me I just need to keep trying to improve the connection. I'm reading my schematic but cant tell for sure, is this brown wire part of the ignition/spark circuit?
Any suggestions. Thanks.

[brads70]

So what caused the meltdown at the harness? Just the loose conection, or was something wired wrong? I'm just learning here? I will soon be ready to install my steering column soon and don't want this to happen! All the electrical in the steering column is new so hopefully I won't have any problems?

[tommyg29]

I think my wiring in the dash is about 8 years old with 4,000 miles on it, so maybe the bullet type connection was just slightly loose, which would lead to heat buildup. I think thats the main weakness....the type of connection isnt positive enough.
But, maybe I have additional issues. I just know I dont have any ignition spark, and I've quit for the day.

[500Stroker]

 On my 1973 manual it says red is battery and brown is ignition 2 which goes to my ballast.  I assume yours is the same.  I would pull out the red also and butt splice both of them bypassing the plastic connector.   Or solder them together that's what I did.

[brads70]

I think my wiring in the dash is about 8 years old with 4,000 miles on it, so maybe the bullet type connection was just slightly loose, which would lead to heat buildup. I think thats the main weakness....the type of connection isnt positive enough.
But, maybe I have additional issues. I just know I dont have any ignition spark, and I've quit for the day.

 No doubt your pissed off/frustrated! I know I sure would be! Could have been a lot worse though?Glad it wasen't! I'm going with a MSD 6AL to avoid the ballast resistor, hope that helps me some?

[500Stroker]

My meltdown was from running too many items at one time drawing too much current through the old not in great shape connector.  headlights, defroster, wipers, radio and sixpack solenoid. (the solenoid should have been run directly to the alternator and was not)