hydroboost installed

[somedaysoon]

Someday - I used the same GM setup but used the original mounting plate and stood the unit forward off the firewall by 1" using a solid aluminum block drilled to suit. By moving it forward I used the original pedal bellcrank setup that is there for the vacuum booster. Had to shorten that pedal rod you show in the picture, thread it to 3/8"NF and add a locknut and HEIM end to fit the bellcrank. Advantage is the rod pushes straight into the HB plunger (not on an angle) and less leverage so the unit is not like pushing the airbrake pedal on an empty semi - very sensitive and the pedal effort is a little harder which sounds bad here but drive the car and see. So far I have braked down from 105MPH and it is like a new car or better and no locking of the wheels.
What MC did you use as I want to discard that silly double reservoir setup that the booster came with and go with the single reservoir unit. Am thinking an 82 Dodge 1/2 ton pickup might work.

 My rod isn't at an angle as the hb rod doesn't really allow an angle.  Like my original post said, all I have to do is touch the pedal and it's a stoppin.  Pete

[ragtopdodge]

What master cylinder you using?

Seen these:

http://stores.ebay.com/hydroboost-store_Master-Cylinders_W0QQ_fsubZ898250011QQ_sidZ909288741QQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em322

[ragtopdodge]

Someday - I used the same GM setup but used the original mounting plate and stood the unit forward off the firewall by 1" using a solid aluminum block drilled to suit. By moving it forward I used the original pedal bellcrank setup that is there for the vacuum booster. Had to shorten that pedal rod you show in the picture, thread it to 3/8"NF and add a locknut and HEIM end to fit the bellcrank. Advantage is the rod pushes straight into the HB plunger (not on an angle) and less leverage so the unit is not like pushing the airbrake pedal on an empty semi - very sensitive and the pedal effort is a little harder which sounds bad here but drive the car and see. So far I have braked down from 105MPH and it is like a new car or better and no locking of the wheels.
What MC did you use as I want to discard that silly double reservoir setup that the booster came with and go with the single reservoir unit. Am thinking an 82 Dodge 1/2 ton pickup might work.

You got any pics?  Would love to see this 1" spacer you made.

[ragtopdodge]

Supplier for complete units or just the adapter (and rods):

http://www.tallonhydraulics.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&zenid=2q5vqf2l601ptgo0obvij6ar37

[somedaysoon]

Supplier for complete units or just the adapter (and rods):

http://www.tallonhydraulics.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&zenid=2q5vqf2l601ptgo0obvij6ar37

Wow! open your wallet.  Took me maybe an hour to make mine and the material came with the booster.

[brads70]

I know this is an older post, I found it looking for hydoboost info.
Question what did you uses for the pressure lines? and what M/C did you use? what size is the bore?
How do you like the brakes now that it's on the road? to touchy? just right?
Thanks Brad

[73EStroker]

Brad, bear with me and I will post all of the info you need to install this GM HB unit. It includes all of the adapter fittings etc. Hose is HighPress SS Braided with nylon inside. I spaced the unit 1" away from the firewall so that I could use the bellcrank setup between the existing pedal and the vacuum booster input rod. Then I shortened the HB rod down to minimum and threaded a 3/8UNF thread on it. Used a jam nut on a HEIM end and it all aligns with the existing bellcrank setup. What this does is make the feel similar to the old PB setup but the stopping power is there if you keep pushing. I have driven another car (Corvette) with a direct rod from the pedal to the HB and it is way too sensitive for me. IE would be too easy to lock the wheels. Going elk hunting next week so it will be a week and a half unless a grizzly eats me as there are lots there too. If that happens then no info from me. ha ha
Send me your email to barryycindy@yahoo.com and I will see what is on my hard drive

[brads70]

Thanks Barry!@ e-mail sent

[johns cuda shop]

After making a Hydroboost conversion plate for my cuda,I  went ahead and made 4 extra . They are made from 1 inch 6061 t-6 aluminum . They are available at www.customachinecomponents.com  Thanks John

[brads70]

Ok I have a H/B unit from a astro van..... now what?     The bracket from the astro van on the one I got is angled down , not straight like the one you show? I can mill up what ever I need to do.

[johns cuda shop]

 :smilielol:Lol, Thats right Brad, Its great to have a mill to play with!!

[brads70]

:smilielol:Lol, Thats right Brad, Its great to have a mill to play with!!

Sure is!    What size is the bore on the M/C  your using?

[johns cuda shop]

  Hi Brad, It a 1 1/8 bore  , anything smaller would make it brake pedal too touchy. I like what you have done to your car so far,  Great workmanship. Thanks John

[brads70]

Hi Brad, It a 1 1/8 bore  , anything smaller would make it brake pedal too touchy. I like what you have done to your car so far,  Great workmanship. Thanks John

 Thanks! I measured the stock bore on the M/C from the astro van and it was 1 1/4" ? What would a bigger bore do? The other issue I have is mine is  a manual brake car . The pushrod goes from the pedal right to the M/C ( no bell crank?)  What does your have? I read somewhere, someone said you can't just run the H/B rod right to the pedal as it would make the brakes too "touchy"  ?
What's your opinion?

I was talking with the e-bay seller from the H/B listed in this post. He says this is what he built for a B-Body?

[johns cuda shop]

Hi Brad, Mine was a manual brake car also.This is the second system I pieced together. My unit is from a 95 Astro van with a $59 rebuild kit. I always run my unit direct from the pedal. You may have to modify the pedal rod . I use a large M/C bore  (1 1/8 )because the hydroboost unit has a short stroke and it pushes more fluid , the manual brake uses a smaller bore(like 7/8) and a longer stroke. One thing I must note. What ever M/C you use don't let the M/C bore bottom out when you fully depress the pedal. Most of the time I get Napa auto parts to make my lines bu,. on my pro touring car I am building I decided on some braided lines and fittings from Tallon Hydraulics.  http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=75207.0