A forum comment: If you haven't already outlined what you had to do to make this swap I for one would like to encourage you to do so. This is something a lot of us might consider doing someday and it would be really helpful to hear how the conversion went for someone who just did it.
First off, where to get parts:
Passon Performance and Brewers Performance both sell complete 4 speeds, and all the parts to fix them. You need to start with a GOOD transmission, so be careful when shopping. For my small block I chose the 23 spline input shaft rather than the Bomb Proof 18 spline for six pack and Hemi cars.
http://www.brewersperformance.com/http://www.passonperformance.com/Here is my swap info: The cost adds up FAST!!!
Used 4 speed, had the larger diameter input shaft bearing so had the small block bellhousing opening machined to accept the larger input shaft bearing retainer. The trany needs to have the E-body type rear extension housing that has the gear shift lever attach point clear at the back of housing near where the drive shaft fits in. I chose the older 4 speed which has lower first gear. I have 3.23 rear axle gears, but the lower first gear gives me almost a 3.55 type ratio in first for a bit quicker acceleration while having a good hiway cruising gear ratio.
I also chose the older 4 speed because they have what some people consider is a more durable shift mechanism (ball and detent) that the internal shift forks and external gear shift rod linkage attaches to.
Hurst Shifter with linkage. Don’t buy the older Inland type shifter, they replaced them with Hurst for good reason. There is an adapter plate with countersunk screws that attaches the shifter to the trans extension housing. You will also need a gearshift boot and metal trim ring.
Rear transmission Xmember. Mine had been damaged and crap repair job, so bought a used replacement with rear trany mount.
Clutch pedal linkage with Z-bar, and clutch release fork with release bearing sized to fit trany input shaft bearing retainer. The Z-bar for small block is not the same as for big block. Small block has more distance from bellhousing end of zbar to zbar arm that clutch fork adjuster rod attaches to. The end of zbar that has two small holes opposite each other is the clutch pedal side of the zbar, and a spring steel wire/clip locks into the two holes and engages a groove in the nylon half shells that are the pivot for the zbar. This prevents the zbar from moving side to side along the pivot axis.
Clutch/brake pedal assy. Chally and Cuda the same, some difference in pedal width year to year. There is a difference between the pedal assy main bracket that bolts to firewall (has all the pedals hanging from it). The manual brake master cylinder attaches with studs that come with the bracket, and power brake booster has studs on the booster that fits thru holes in the pedal bracket. I used the attach bracket that came with my auto trans, and added the 4 speed clutch and brake pedals to it so I could keep my power brakes. The clutch pedal has its own smaller bracket that attaches to firewall with a special bracket (has 2 studs).
To remove/install the clutch pedal return spring, lightly hammer 10 washers in between the coils of the spring: 5 on one side and 5 opposite. I used washers about 0.075 thick by 1 inch O.D.
4 speed trany hump. I removed the auto trany shifter attach brackets, then scribed the 4 speed hump outline on the floor. Cut out the floor, leaving overlap for welding the hump to the floor. Left the trany Xmember in place as well as the part of the original floor that covers the Xmember. Added extra spot welds to join the floor to the Xmember. Remember, the unibody trany Xmember needs the piece of the floor above it and welded to it to complete the “boxed in” shape for correct strength.
I have not installed the interior carpet, but here's a forum comment: Get new carpet. The auto carpet will not fit over the 4 speed hump very well and it won't look very good either.
Z-bar bracket must be welded to drivers side frame rail. There is a slot that locates the bracket, then just weld in place.
Engine flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate. I chose to use finger style pressure plate, not the diaphragm type. Note on the flywheel: this could affect engine balance. Some engines are internally balanced, some external. Also, do you have aftermarket pistons/rods so standard OEM balance is no longer valid.
If the engine is internally balanced, then all you need is a neutral balanced flywheel..no problem. If the engine is external balanced, then you need the flywheel balanced to match the external balance requirements of the engine rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons). External balance is not so easy to do unless you have the balance data or your rebuilding the engine and redoing the balance anyway, like I am. These questions need answers.
Drive shaft forward U-joint/slip joint. I’m going to have a drive line built & balanced.
Need to replace auto trans neutral safety switch with a “clutch pedal depressed” safety switch. Wire from ignition switch “start” position runs to starter relay small flat blade terminal, (eliminate both the RED safety switch on drivers fenderwell and the 1974 seat belt interlock if you have it). The other flat blade terminal goes to clutch pedal switch which acts as the ground for the circuit. Completing this circuit activates the relay which activates the starter solenoid to turn the starter.
Need to hook up back up lights to the 4 speed reverse switch.
If I missed some things, someone will let me know I am sure.
From EBAY:
Passon performance has a rebuilt 23 spline trany as we speak for about $600. IMO a good deal.
Another add from Ebay, $2000:
THIS IS A BIG BLOCK 4 SPEED CONVERSION FOR AN E BODY OR A 71-74 B BODY. THIS IS A SUPER NICE SET AND INCLUDES THE FOLLOWING: A 23 SPLINE 833 TRANS, THE SHIFTING RODS WITH MOUNTING EARS, A HEAVY DUTY BILLETT SHIFTER MOUNTING PLATE, A HURST SHIFTER MECHANISM, A MINT, SHOW QUALITY PISTOL GRIP HANDLE WITH WOOD GRIPS, Z BAR, BIG BLOCK BELLHOUSING, A MINT 4 SPEED HUMP, AND THE PEDAL KIT WITH THE ROD THAT RUNS THROUGH THE FIREWALL. AS I SAID, THIS IS A SIMPLE CONVERSION AND IS A SUPER NICE SET. I ALSO HAVE SMALL BLOCK SETS AVAILABLE IF NEEDED. ALL PARTS HAVE BEEN CLEANED AND PAINTED AND ARE READY TO INSTALL. PICS REALLY DO NOT DO THIS SET JUSTICE ESPECIALLY THE PISTOL GRIP. BUYER PAYS SHIPPING. AS IS.
Topic: Out with the auto and in with a 4 speed, what it took to do the swap. (Read 24987 times)
