Whats the best way to remove and replace an engine?

[Tonefiend]

I have swapped a few engines back in the day. It's been a few years, and I have never pulled a mopar.   I always pulled them out with the transmission.

What is the fastest and easiest way to swap out my 318 for amother small block like a 340.  I have a 904 trans column shift.  I'll probably go with the stock exhaust manifold.   

Beleive it or not in the past I used the rafters, or built a rig with 4x4s and used a come along!   Those days are behind me so I would guess I could rent a cherry picker. 

[Kapteenikosmos]

If your torsion bars aren't stuck I would remove it from underneath. Loosen and remove the torsion bars & upper control arms and drop the whole kmember with the engine and trans on it. Then lift the front end of the car up and pull the whole packet out from under the car. I installed mine this way and it was so easy that I was really surprised. I even didn't have any lift available so I raised and lowered the front end with floor jack and stands.

[Tonefiend]

I have thought of doing it this way.  Is there a pictoral around somewhere?  I would love to take a look at doing it this way. 

[Kapteenikosmos]

Here are couple, not the best ones though. Also I didn't have suspension components installed on the k-member during then because they weren't ready. Also the steering box was missing and it was real PITA to install afterwards. I had to remove drivers side header and starter.

The pics are taken from rather close distance because my car is still located in the homemade paint booth and there isn't too much space available.

I used one of those manual operated pushable fork lifts (no idea what they are called in english) to move the engine and transmission.

This is bit different to what you are doing because you are pulling a whole engine with the accessories in place but it shouldn't cause any major problems.

[Glennster]

We pulled it from the top, I got the car up enough that I could work from the bottom. I pulled the starter and the 2 lower bolts that hold the motor to the trans, I got the others from the top. I put a stack of 2 x6's under the trans to catch it when we pulled the motor away from it.
NOTE - The 1/4'' plywood protecting the radiator
NOTE - 1/8'' hole drilled in the hood hinges, if your hood fits good, this is any easy way to get it lined up perfect when you put it back on. Just slide some 1/8 cotter pins in there for the reinstall and she's lined up. A dab of silicone and some touch paint and it will never be noticed. I'm sure the purists out there will puke at the thought of doing this. I'm sure it's a huge NO NO for most.
 That's my Son holding my dead engine, once I unbolted everything, the two of us popped it out in about a half hour.....
We rented the cherry picker for 4 hours for $18, it was cool, this thing broke down into 6 parts and could easily be assembled/disassembled in 2 minutes. It fit in the back of my minivan real easy

[Aussie Challenger]

Glennster you are gamer than me I always pull the radiator, more room and no chance of water pump popping a hole (I saw the plyboard).
Engine bays really look bad once the engine is removed with wires & cables pushed out of the way, makes you wonder if it will ever look neat again. 

[mopardave]

far less stress full from the bottom side up. even with a hemi. Once you do it this way, You will never want to go up and over again.

[Aussie Challenger]

I have always gone up & over but after talking with a couple of guys that have done it from underneath and the info available on this board I will be doing it from below when I replace the engine and convert to a manual.   

[Killer_Mopar]

I just installed my engine from the bottom last weekend, the first time I have ever done it like that. I agree with everyone else - its definitely the way to go. I didnt get a single scratch and it went in as a whole unit, so no struggling to get the trans in place. If you have the ability to go from the bottom....then definitely go that route.

[Road_Runner]

Looks like some specialized lifts & jacks are used by some here to install the engine/trans/k member as a unit.  What is the minimum 'safe' tools that need to be used to make this happen.  And for those of us who've always come in from the top, can someone breakdown the steps involved doing this from the bottom from tear down to re-install? 

Thanks, Jim

[Moparal]

I know from reading here and word of mouth how simple it seems to do it all from the bottom, but I just hate undoing all the suspention parts. Like the Strut rods, the upper ball joints, the tq arms and stuff. If the engine was detailed and every thing new as like a new restore, I might try it. But when it comes to just replacing an engine or engine / trans combo, I prefer coming out the top. A lot less hrs involved to me and less tools. Around 12 bolts that holds the engine to the trans and k frame, some wires, pullies, and fuel lines is about it once the manifolds are off, or leave on for that matter. I have never had to pull the hood off either. Maybe im old school, but when i'm on a roll, it doesn't take but about an hr and a half to pull the engine when the fluids are drained. You do risk scuffing and scratching paint if your not careful. Especially when you have headers. But as a rule, it goes fairly quick.


So from all I have been seeing and reading here, every bottom install has been with what seems to be everything new, shiney and easy to screw and unscrew. Mileage cars with greasy parts and cruddy bolts n nuts makes a bottom job seem hard to me.  This is just my opinion, since I have done probably a hundred or more through the top, and none from the bottom unless it was a front wheel drive car, then I usually do them from the bottom

[mojavered]

It seems that going through the bottom is much easier for someone that has a shop that has the room and any special tool required.  Since I have never pulled through the bottom, it just seems that all the work involved has to be much more difficult for the average garage.  Through the top seems the way to go.  For everything you have to undo for the top R&R, you have to do for the bottom as well minus the headers maybe, plus a lot more in regards to suspension.  Like Road_runner said, I would like to know what the minumum "safe" tools are.

[Killer_Mopar]

I've taken the engines out through the top a half dozen times between my car and my fathers. The one through the bottom last weekend was only done because I have a lift now and I had to clean up the whole suspension. If you just wanted to pull the engine just to go through it, it probably will be easier and faster to go through the top. If you plan on rebuilding the suspension and/or replace the torsion bars (and you have the tools) then go through the bottom. Nothing wrong with going through the top, just have to be a little more careful and probably should have a helper......

[acudanut]

 Faster and easier from the top. I always hook the transmission to the engine then just drop it in. 

[Glennster]

Doing the motor and the trans together takes some serious height. You have to get that sucker way up there, if you don't have that '' way too deep '' oil pan it's easier......
  If you do the motor only, it's real easy to get out. Just take your time and have a GOOD helper. I think the key to going back in is to jack up the trans until it's real close to touching the tunnel. That way you have room for the motor mounts to clear the K member.
  You can't quite see it in the second picture, but there's a guy under the car guiding the tail of the trans so it does not beat on the tunnel on the way in. Once it's in place, the install is easy....